Anti-seize on lug nut studs, why or why not?

[RIjon]

Jeeez, people will argue about anything

I will always anti-seize my studs..... on any vehicle. Galling is no fun and completely unnecessary,

As far as torque ratings go.....it's not so much what the torque number is...it's the fact that ALL of them are the same. This will insure that the rotor does not warp when heated and cooled.

If you have ever built anything high performance that required specific torque specs (ARP Studs,bolts, ect... ) You will ALWAYS be told to use a lube when torquing.

To add to this, every time you loosen/tighten your studs you are generating heat. This will react differently between materials and without a lubricant, this can promote galling. Good luck!

[Extracheese]

I personally have never seen or heard of an issue with putting an anti-seize compound on lug nut studs. Never had one loosen. I have lubed hundreds of vehicles studs. As far as the warpage is concerned, on most Toyota's it would require that you warp the hub too, as the studs are pressed into the bubs on almost all of them as the rotor hat is just sandwiched between the rotor and rim. Just food for thought. My first post, but nowhere even close to my first Toyota.

[akauth]

Originally Posted by Extracheese

I personally have never seen or heard of an issue with putting an anti-seize compound on lug nut studs. Never had one loosen. I have lubed hundreds of vehicles studs. As far as the warpage is concerned, on most Toyota's it would require that you warp the hub too, as the studs are pressed into the bubs on almost all of them as the rotor hat is just sandwiched between the rotor and rim. Just food for thought. My first post, but nowhere even close to my first Toyota.

As someone pointed out, the bigger deal is to match (and balance) the torque to each of the nuts all around to avoid any issues.

[waiting tundra]

I'm not a engineer or any kind of scientist, I'm a boilermaker in a oil refinery for 25 years. I use 20 to 30 cans of neverseeze a week on every size bolt one can imagine. I don't work on space shuttles or jet fighters. I work on compressors,pumps, tanks vessels, stuff that runs for years at temps up to 2000 degress and 2000psi untill it breaks or comes down for maintance. Neverseeze is the best stuff you can put on your lugs in my opinion period. In fact I use it on everythang when I work on my vehicles & have been for years. You may break a lug trying to take a tire off that has rusted up, but breaking a lug by neeverseeze with 83#'s torque no way. In fact torqueing a clean neever seezed stud is the most accurate way to make sure the right amount of torque is applied. I use a torque wrench on 1000's of bolts a year and this is the proper technique. rebuild a pump or compressor without doing this and you will pay for it when you have to tear it back down. You will change your tire on the side of a road one day.

[Triple BB]

Anti-seize for me. Been using it on my lugs for a lot of years...

[HOGWILD]

Wheel Tech - Wheel Lug Torquing

[akauth]

Originally Posted by waiting tundra

I'm not a engineer or any kind of scientist, I'm a boilermaker in a oil refinery for 25 years. I use 20 to 30 cans of neverseeze a week on every size bolt one can imagine. I don't work on space shuttles or jet fighters. I work on compressors,pumps, tanks vessels, stuff that runs for years at temps up to 2000 degress and 2000psi untill it breaks or comes down for maintance. Neverseeze is the best stuff you can put on your lugs in my opinion period. In fact I use it on everythang when I work on my vehicles & have been for years. You may break a lug trying to take a tire off that has rusted up, but breaking a lug by neeverseeze with 83#'s torque no way. In fact torqueing a clean neever seezed stud is the most accurate way to make sure the right amount of torque is applied. I use a torque wrench on 1000's of bolts a year and this is the proper technique. rebuild a pump or compressor without doing this and you will pay for it when you have to tear it back down. You will change your tire on the side of a road one day.

This is exactly why I use it. When you live with something until it literally dies, you have a different attitude. I like to be able to take things apart near the end of it's useful life 20 years later and not have them break on me as I replace the parts. It's just so much easier and I've never had a failure. It just seems like common sense to me but I can see the argument against it. It's just not a strong argument, that's all

Certainly, rusted threads are NOT going to allow you torque a bolt to the proper tightness.

I've NEVER stripped threads from overtightening (that would be the biggest problem) or had a bolt fail from being overstretched.

Alan