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Tires and WheelsDiscussions and experienced advice about tires, wheels, traction control, proper balancing, improving tire life and more.
This is a discussion thread titled "Brake Dust and Rust!", within the Tires and Wheels forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
My front alloy wheels have baked on brake dust on the backs and the rear wheels have some rust (back of wheel) around the hub and lug area. Can someone recommend some products and tips to remove these problems. The only thing I have tried has been Megs Hot Wheels Cool Care. It removed very little brake dust and no rust.
I'd post pictures but I haven't been able to figure out how to do so. Plus the pictures I took with my digital camera are saved as 2mb each...don't know why (much more than the allotted 200kb per picture). I don't know how to convert the pictures from 2mb to 200kb.
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2004, Toyota Tundra, 4x4, Phantom Gray
SR5, Access Cab, TRD Pkg., Towing Pkg., LSD
Extang Lift Off Tonneau
Bedliner
Colgan Custom Bra
Nasta S.S. Nerf Bars
"The Seat Cover Factory" seat covers
Air Box Mod/Stock Filter
Hankook Dynapro AS RH03 265/70-16 on Alloy Wheels
Hankook Icebear W300 245/70-16 on Steel Wheels
Eagle One A to Z wheel cleaner (I think the new name is All wheel cleaner) comes in an orange bottle. This stuff is the best I ever used. I t took that baked on stuff that NEVER came off on my Corolla and every car I ever tried it on. Use a small stiff bristle brush if more oomph is needed. Don't dilute it and make sure wheels are COOL before you spray it. I've used P21, Megs, Armor All, and about 20 others over the years. Eagle one for the wheels is all I use now, I was that impressed.
Eagle One A to Z wheel cleaner (I think the new name is All wheel cleaner) comes in an orange bottle. This stuff is the best I ever used. I t took that baked on stuff that NEVER came off on my Corolla and every car I ever tried it on. Use a small stiff bristle brush if more oomph is needed. Don't dilute it and make sure wheels are COOL before you spray it. I've used P21, Megs, Armor All, and about 20 others over the years. Eagle one for the wheels is all I use now, I was that impressed.
I tried Griot's garage stuff and while it took off the fresh stuff, the baked on crap wouldn't come off, it felt like primer. So A to Z will take off the baked on stuff, and not the clear or color coats along with it?
__________________ "Si vis pacem, para bellum"-Vegetius
2005 Tacoma Doublecab TRD Offroad 4X4 shortbed - Modifications - Fog light mod, Debadged, Black Toyota grille emblem, Map Light Mod, DRL mod
Factory Accessories - Tacoma Bedmat, Extra set of D-rings installed in front bed bolts, Extra set of factory tie downs
Optional Options - FilterMag, Fumoto valve, Westin Suregrip running boards w/LED lights, WeatherTech Floorliners, WeatherTech window visor vents, Prestige remote car starter w/keyless entry, SilverStar headlight and turn signal bulbs, Toytek 2" lift, Muth heated signal mirrors, WAAG grille guard (center only, I'm old school), Taillights tinted by JonsTintedTails.com, Anthracite FJ Cruiser wheels w/ 265/75r16 BFGoodrich A/T
I tried Griot's garage stuff and while it took off the fresh stuff, the baked on crap wouldn't come off, it felt like primer. So A to Z will take off the baked on stuff, and not the clear or color coats along with it?
I haven't noticed any problems. My Corolla hubcaps were at the point I wanted to buy new ones because all the corners and inside edges looked like a yellow/brown/black mess. I always washed religiously and waxed but the stuff never disappeared. I figured it was just the plastic changing color over the years/mileage. I used to use Westleys Bleche White to get the crap off the tires and scrubbed the caps at same time but nothing took that junk off. Here is what they looked like at my last good detail last summer.
Just recently I washed my summer wheels, this is what I did. I bought the Mr. Clean Auto Dry wash (because I liked how it has a built-in water filter which gives it a spotless finish), Eagle One All Wheel and Tire cleaner, and a large soft bristle wheel brush (I reccomend buying a small one too to get all the nooks and crannies). The back of my wheels were COATED in brake dust so I know how ya feel. I sprayed the Eagle One on the back of the wheel first, let it soak for about a minute, then used the brush to thoroughly scrub off the dust, and finally rinsed off the wheel. I did the same process on the front of the wheel as well. Once the entire wheel was dust free (and shiny), I switched the dial to AUTODRY (now the water will be filtered) and washed the entire wheel giving it a coat of filtered water. I didn't have to hand dry it, I just let it sit in the shade and voila! Brand spankin' new wheels! Unfortunately my wheels LOVE brake dust and I don't have time to repeat this entire process every few weeks so I will now leave it up to the pro car washes! But yea, I definetly reccomend Eagle One. The products they reccomended are good too, so you have a variety of wheel cleaners to choose from! However, make sure you get 2 different sized brushes, sounds like your wheels will need a good scrubbin!
__________________ 2001 Toyota Sequoia SR5
Exterior: Waag (front, rear & taillights) brush gaurd, 20% tinted front windows to match all around, bug guard, Silvania Silverstar H4 bulbs, DRL disabled, Piaa 580 driving lights, OEM foglights, Piaa 1100x Platinum (reverse) lights, 20" Enkei Deep 6 (TRD) machine polished wheels with 285/55/20 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW-2 tires.
Interior: Compustar 2WSS-AS (alarm with remote start) security system and pager, Optima Yellow Top Batter, Clarion VRX935vd headunit, Escort Passport 8500 Radar/Laser Detector (hardwired), 3G 20gb Ipod and custom-made Ipod holder, (2) 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2's in a ported plexiglass fish tank powered by a Rockford Fosgate 1001bd 1000 watt amp.
Performance: JBA Titanium Coated headers, Unichip (waiting to be re-flashed), SP Performance slotted (front + rear) rotors, Hawk HPS (front) and Street Plus Performance (rear) brake pads. March 06: Just added the Borla Dual Exhaust(side exit)!! It sounds beautiful!!!
Suspension: 2" front lift by Bilstein 5100 coilovers and rear yellow Bilstein shocks.
Nice, I'll go down to Pimp Boyz to get some Eagle A to Z! Thanks!
__________________ "Si vis pacem, para bellum"-Vegetius
2005 Tacoma Doublecab TRD Offroad 4X4 shortbed - Modifications - Fog light mod, Debadged, Black Toyota grille emblem, Map Light Mod, DRL mod
Factory Accessories - Tacoma Bedmat, Extra set of D-rings installed in front bed bolts, Extra set of factory tie downs
Optional Options - FilterMag, Fumoto valve, Westin Suregrip running boards w/LED lights, WeatherTech Floorliners, WeatherTech window visor vents, Prestige remote car starter w/keyless entry, SilverStar headlight and turn signal bulbs, Toytek 2" lift, Muth heated signal mirrors, WAAG grille guard (center only, I'm old school), Taillights tinted by JonsTintedTails.com, Anthracite FJ Cruiser wheels w/ 265/75r16 BFGoodrich A/T
Castrol Super Clean will eat clear coat, trust me, don't get it anywhere near your cars, or personal effects, or private parts. Evil stuff unless you "want" to remove paint. Can you tell I've had a bad experience that ended up costing me over a grand?
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Blacked out 2003 Limited 4X4 Access Cab with TRD Off-Road Package Debadged
2.5" Fabtech suspension lift
3" body lift
Castrol Super Clean will eat clear coat, trust me, don't get it anywhere near your cars, or personal effects, or private parts. Evil stuff unless you "want" to remove paint. Can you tell I've had a bad experience that ended up costing me over a grand?
But if you are into building models, it strips the paint off without damaging the plastic.
__________________ "Si vis pacem, para bellum"-Vegetius
2005 Tacoma Doublecab TRD Offroad 4X4 shortbed - Modifications - Fog light mod, Debadged, Black Toyota grille emblem, Map Light Mod, DRL mod
Factory Accessories - Tacoma Bedmat, Extra set of D-rings installed in front bed bolts, Extra set of factory tie downs
Optional Options - FilterMag, Fumoto valve, Westin Suregrip running boards w/LED lights, WeatherTech Floorliners, WeatherTech window visor vents, Prestige remote car starter w/keyless entry, SilverStar headlight and turn signal bulbs, Toytek 2" lift, Muth heated signal mirrors, WAAG grille guard (center only, I'm old school), Taillights tinted by JonsTintedTails.com, Anthracite FJ Cruiser wheels w/ 265/75r16 BFGoodrich A/T
i find that a little antisieze on the mating surfaces between the drum and axle and between the wheel and the drum keeps the rust problem at bay. and, makes everything easy to take apart when necessary ;-) just make sure you don't get it anywhere near the braking surfaces...
Brake dust is one thing rust is something else, The rust is there because at one time or another someone drove the car around with the brakes metal to metal. The rust is metal from the rotor imbedded in the aluminum wheel while it was red hot. In most cases it won't come out. I have seen many wheels ruined from this. If you want to try you will need something that will devolve the rust without doing too much damage to the aluminum. If the wheel is clear coated you can have it sandblasted and re coated but it probably wont match the other wheels. Best bet see if you can find nice one at a salvage yard.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
With "Super Clean" you do need to follow the directions which call for diluting it down and it works fine, use about 10-20% in water and you will be fine, just don't let it dry on the surface.
Best regards, Kent
__________________ Model:'04 IS Tundra AC. Power train :V8 4x4, TRD S/C, IPT valvebody, Coolpack II Dual electric fans, ND IK22 Iridium plugs, TRD dual exaust, TRD LSD, JBA Ti headers, TRD air filter. Interior: TRD boost gauge, TRD Floor mats, USspeedo stainless gauge faces, Blackwood dash kit, OBX pedal covers. Suspension :TRD off road pkg, Bilstein Yellow/Blue shocks, 1.25" preload spacer, TRD BBS 18x9 wheels, Michlien 275/55/18 Crossterrain, Urathane frt swaybar & rack bushings, Helwig 1.125" rear swaybar. Body: Hollandia 790 Sunroof, Muth heated signal mirrors, PopNlock tailgate auto lock, TRD skidplate, Bedrug, Extang lift tonneau, Bed extender, Gunmetal tail lamps, Black headlights & turn sigs, Debadged.
Brake dust is one thing rust is something else, The rust is there because at one time or another someone drove the car around with the brakes metal to metal. The rust is metal from the rotor imbedded in the aluminum wheel while it was red hot. In most cases it won't come out. I have seen many wheels ruined from this. If you want to try you will need something that will devolve the rust without doing too much damage to the aluminum. If the wheel is clear coated you can have it sandblasted and re coated but it probably wont match the other wheels. Best bet see if you can find nice one at a salvage yard.
Mike
two words: semimetallic pads
Cheap pads will cause rusting on some surfaces. On painted steel wheels, it's almost impossible to get off.
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Blacked out 2003 Limited 4X4 Access Cab with TRD Off-Road Package Debadged
2.5" Fabtech suspension lift
3" body lift
With "Super Clean" you do need to follow the directions which call for diluting it down and it works fine, use about 10-20% in water and you will be fine, just don't let it dry on the surface.
Best regards, Kent
Instructions should say: Use at your own risk...
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Blacked out 2003 Limited 4X4 Access Cab with TRD Off-Road Package Debadged
2.5" Fabtech suspension lift
3" body lift