Where do I start. I have dc, 5.7 trd. I towed my TT today for the 1st time and had some pretty good sway on the way home( picked it up from the dealer). Its a 27ft Riverside at about 7000# Keep in mind the weight dis setup is set for my wifes surburban and I didnt air up the truck tires to max. I got it mostly at about 65+mph. Ive never had to use a sway bar with the burb. Any help would be helpfull thanks.
Let's see...
Set up the hitch for the Tundra
Air up the tires on the truck to 40psi and check the trailer's tires.
Give it another try.
Keep in mind the wind turbulence coming off the back of your Tundra and hitting the front and sides of you trailer are going to be much different than that of the SUV.
if;
Trailer = Brick
SUV = Brick
Tundra = Large Bullet
then;
SUV + Trailer = One big brick (1st brick blocks the wind for the 2nd brick)
Tundra + Trailer = Large bullet towing a wind catching brick.
You may have to get a anti-sway bar set up.
I haven't needed one yet, but my trailer is only 21ft. My true test will be I-90 to Eastern WA on Labor day weekend.
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Where do I start. I have dc, 5.7 trd. I towed my TT today for the 1st time and had some pretty good sway on the way home( picked it up from the dealer). Its a 27ft Riverside at about 7000# Keep in mind the weight dis setup is set for my wifes surburban and I didnt air up the truck tires to max. I got it mostly at about 65+mph. Ive never had to use a sway bar with the burb. Any help would be helpfull thanks.
So I take it you have WDH with 1,000 lb bars set to make the truck sit level? How much drop on the ball? What is the tounge weight? have you actually run it across the scales and check front, rear and tounge weight?
Air bags are a nice addition for stabilization.
If your W.D setup will work with a Reese Dual Cam sway control device, buy it and call it done. This is what I use and it works perfectly. Do NOT use a 'friction' style device for your length of trailer.
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Where do I start. I have dc, 5.7 trd. I towed my TT today for the 1st time and had some pretty good sway on the way home( picked it up from the dealer). Its a 27ft Riverside at about 7000# Keep in mind the weight dis setup is set for my wifes surburban and I didnt air up the truck tires to max. I got it mostly at about 65+mph. Ive never had to use a sway bar with the burb. Any help would be helpfull thanks.
More than likely, the tires were the problem here. IMO, if you have the stock cheap 4-ply tires on the truck, get rid of them & get you some 8 or 10 ply tires. Then air them up to 50-60 psi before you tow. This should help a lot. Also make sure the WDH is set up properly for the truck.
There are several ways to reduce trailer sway...some easy/cheap, some harder/expensive.
The first step is the easy stuff...stiffen the tire sidewalls on the truck with higher tire pressure (like OTFM suggests). But don't go over the max allowed pressure (probably around 50 psi). That might help some but probably won't fully eliminate sway, especially over 65 mph.
The next step is to adjust the WDH to ensure that you're getting equal tongue loading on the front and rear axles of the truck. If the front tires of the truck are unweighted, they can't control the rig nearly as well and you will get hard to control sway. So measure the the distance from the top of wheel wheel arch to the ground on both the front and rear before and after hooking up the trailer. If your WDH is adjusted correctly, both the front and rear measurements should be reduced about equally (indicating a level truck) after your trailer is hooked up. If the front doesn't change (or worse, goes up), then you need to increase the tension on the WDH spring bars.
The next steps (if needed) are better sway control at the hitch...you can start with friction but the problem with friction is that while it slows the onset of a sway, it also slows the recovery. Much better are the self-centering sway control devices like the Reese dual cam that Herbicidal recommended. These cams not only resist the onset of sway but also tend to push the truck and trailer back in line. If a dual cam Reese doesn't solve your problem, then you need to go to the ultimate...the Hensley Arrow
...a Hensley doesn't just provide sway control, it provides sway prevention. But that sway prevention doesn't come cheap...a Hensley runs around $3000 for just the hitch.
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No one noticed that he said that he picked up the trailer from the dealer and got a pretty good amount of sway on the way home. That means the trailer was unloaded so my guess outside of the fact the WD wasn't setup for the vehicle properly is that the trailer itself isn't weighted quite right when it's empty. Probably has a little bit too much weight behind the axles. Once loaded the trailer will probably change it's tow characteristics dramatically if loaded properly. 60% of the weight should be in front of the axles and at least 12% of the total loaded weight should be on the tongue of the trailer.
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07 Tundra sway HELP!
Linear Mode
