I have a 4 pin connector next to the hitch receiver on my RegCab V6 tundra. Is this the connection for the trailers brakes or just lights? Will I need a separate connection for trailer brakes?
Say - it doesn't look like you ever got your question answered here - perhaps you can get your answer in a more suited thread, or in the Garage.
I have a 4 pin connector next to the hitch receiver on my RegCab V6 tundra. Is this the connection for the trailers brakes or just lights? Will I need a separate connection for trailer brakes?
Is the connector white with an odd looking set of pins or is it black with metal pins sticking out? My 2000 came with this connector wire tied to the frame I had to get a fuse that went from the battery to a connector behind the drivers side headlight, and the connector that goes to the white connector under the frame and then has wires terminating in a four pin black connector. Toyota wanted over 200.00 for the two of them, I found them at U Haul for 50.00. The four sticking out go to a trailer connector that uses the same lights for brake & directional. If you use a trailer that has seperate lights for brake & directional you need a 5 pin connector.
I have a 4 pin connector next to the hitch receiver on my RegCab V6 tundra. Is this the connection for the trailers brakes or just lights? Will I need a separate connection for trailer brakes?
You will need a different connector to include trailer brakes. Either a 5, 6 or 7 pin connector.
I have a 4 pin connector next to the hitch receiver on my RegCab V6 tundra. Is this the connection for the trailers brakes or just lights? Will I need a separate connection for trailer brakes?
The 4 pin flat connector does not support trailer brakes. It only has the wiring for trailer lights.
Should handle 2500 w/ no problem. The capacity in the owners manual is 5000# for v6.
The MOST important thing in towing is to have the proper down force on the hitch ball. You NEVER want a negative (up) hitch weight. This will induce swaying. The guideline is about 10% of trailer weight down force on hitch ball (in your case 250#). Best way to do this is to load the trailer (with it attached to the veh) and get the center of gravity estimated ahead of the axle. Then disconnect the tongue (jack it off the ball) and let it down (the hitch ball socket) on some blocks on a simple bathroom scale.
Thats the cheap - labor intensive way. If you wanna spend 5-10 bucks take it to a public scale. Weigh the truck only - then hook up the trailer and put the truck only on the scale bed - it should be 200-300# heavier with the trailer hooked up. If it isn't mabe the scale guy can give you 2 minutes to move your cargo to get the desired distribution.
Hauling motorcycles - you typically want the cycle CG ahead of the trailer axle 6-12 inches. the CG on most motor cycles is a couple inches back of the midpoint between the axles. Set up your chocks and tie downs for this position. Then move gear bags and tool boxes around to balance the trailer.
You don't want TOO much hitch weight either. This overloads the rear axle and UNLOADS the front. Makes the front end come up and gets unstable.
The 4 pin flat connector does not support trailer brakes. It only has the wiring for trailer lights.
The four pin connector that connected into the molex module that is part of my 2000 runs both the brake lights & directionals on the brake lights of the trailer. The brake lights flash when I use my directionals.
I have a 2000 Access Cab V6 manual. I pull a tent trailer now 12' box about 2000lbs. dry. Had 2 adults 3 kids, bed full of gear, I can do 70-80 mph in 5th.
I want to buy a travel trailer now, it weighs 4100lbs. dry. Can I pull it for short distances, no long range trips plans, but I may need to go about 100 miles once or twice. Any thoughts? This truck has been the most dependable thing I have ever owned.
I have a 2000 Access Cab V6 manual. I pull a tent trailer now 12' box about 2000lbs. dry. Had 2 adults 3 kids, bed full of gear, I can do 70-80 mph in 5th.
I want to buy a travel trailer now, it weighs 4100lbs. dry. Can I pull it for short distances, no long range trips plans, but I may need to go about 100 miles once or twice. Any thoughts? This truck has been the most dependable thing I have ever owned.
I think you'll be okay with a 5 Spd Manual. I used to tow approx. 4300 with my old Nissan 2400 4Cyl and climbed Grapevine around 70mph. Not sure I'd try it with my auto tranny without a cooler, but I'm quite sure the engine is strong enough to take it.
anyone care to give input on towing with the V6 Tundra.
what have you towed, what weight etc ???
how did it go, lugging, overdrive off/on, handling etc...
thanks
ace from MA
NOTATION: All threads that pertained to V6 towing have been merged to "Towing w/ a V6" into the Main. --- Possum
I use to towed my 18ft boat and trailer weighing 3600lbs with my 95 T-100 SR5 4x4 no problems it would be working hard on the hills here in Pa. but it did a yoemans job however I would not have towed much more than that weight with that truck I have not had a chance to tow with my V8 Tundra I guess it will do much better remember the key is having the right hitch for the job which makes for improved handling
Well - I guess I'm going to see how towing with my V6 A/T is going to be this weekend. I'm having a hitch installed and towing a mid-size U-haul trailer full of furniture back from Las Vegas - got a few good climbs to test it out. I'm going on faith that my tranny will be okay without the oil cooler!
Guess I'm glad it's not the middle of summer with 120º days!
I'll report on the trip when I return next week.
Jeff
Edit: Crap! Looks like I won't be getting the hitch installed and towing anything this next weekend after all! Plans have changed - so it'll have to wait for now.
If I were to tow a 2500lb. car using a 650lb. UHaul tow dolly, would I be okay?
Chris
Yes...your total weight is only 3100 lbs. Be sure, however, that that dolly has some kind of braking system such as surge brakes. Otherwise you will be really likely to overheat your truck's brakes if you have to do much if any hard braking stopping...and your stopping distances will be roughly twice as long as normal.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
you should be fine i towed a chevy s-10 on a 2000lb trailer total weight was around 4000 lbs. towed it for about 400 miles and i was suprised at what my auto v6 could do!
Linear Mode
