2006 Sequoia towing a 24 Ft. Travel Trailer

[Drum_Phil]

So I've just purchased a Travel Trailer and want to make sure that I'm pulling a proper load for my truck. Thought I'd post here and see if I could get some of the "Tow-Pro's" to chime-in on my set-up.

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Here are some of the key numbers:

TV:
2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited

4x4, V-8, 4.7L
273-hp @ 5,400 rpm
Engine displacement - 285 cu.in.
Engine torque - 314 lbs.-ft. @ 3,400 rpm
DOHC, 32 Valves
Fuel Tank: 26.4 Gallons (147.84 lbs on full tank based 5.6 lbs. per gallon)
Wheelbase: 118.1"
Tow Package: Class III Hitch (Aren't these only rated to 5,000 lbs?)

GVWR: 6,700 lbs.
UVW(Curb Weight): 5,450 lbs.
Payload Capacity: 1,250 lbs.
Towing Capacity: 6,200 lbs.
GCWR: 11,800 lbs.
GAWR (front): 3,160 lbs.
GAWR (rear): 3,900 lbs.

TT:
2000 Fleetwood Prowler 24J

GVWR: 6,200 lbs.
UVW(Curb Weight): 4,592 lbs.
Payload Capacity: 1,608 lbs.
46 Gallon Water tank: 384 lbs.

Misc.:
Equal-i-zer Hitch (w/ 4 Point Sway Control): 1,000 lbs./10,000 lbs. (Tongue/Trailer) (Total Hitch weight is 100 lbs.)
P3 Brake Controller

(The Equal-i-zer Hitch hasn't been shipped yet, so I still have a chance to go with the 1,200/12,000 hitch for the same price. As it only weighs 7 lbs. more than the 1,000/10,000, shouldn't I just go with the larger one in case I ever get a larger TV/TT?)
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By my math, it's close, but I think I'm ok.

TV-Sequoia UVW 5,450 lbs. (Technically, I could reduce this number if needed by taking out the two rear seats thusly losing about 150 lbs. or so)
TV-Sequoia gas 150 lbs.
TV-4 passengers 450 lbs.
TV-Misc. stuff 90 lbs.
TV TOTAL: 6,140 lbs.

TT-Trailer UVW 4,592 lbs.
TT-Hitch 100 lbs.
TT-Water (46 gallons @ 8.33 lbs. p/g) 384 lbs.
TT-Propane (2 30 lb. tanks: 7.1 gallons per tank x 4.2 lbs. p/gallon x 2 tanks) 60 lbs.
TT-Gear 492 lbs.
TT TOTAL: 5,628 lbs.

TV + TT = 11,768 lbs.

I've edited this post to correct the TV-UVW, TV-Payload Capacity, TV-Misc. stuff numbers and TT-Propane weights. Given that I've now got a higher number for gear at 492 lbs., I feel that this is more realistic. But as suggested, I will most definitely hitting the first scale I see.

What am I missing here?

If I'm at these numbers and drive safely, do you folks think I'm alright?

Anyone care to chime-in with their thoughts and suggestions?

Thanks!

[Marazzito]

Hitch weight needs to go up TV total and subtracted from your TT total. Doesn't effect your GCWR because you are simply moving the weight, but you need to make sure your not exceeding your GVWR. 100 lbs seems very low for a hitch weight, where did you get 100 lbs from? This isn't to big of a deal because you still have 460 lbs to spare on your GCWR even after adding the 100 lbs to the TV and removing it from the TT. If you are using a WDH and your hitch weight really is 600 lbs roughly 2/3's of that will be on the TV and the remaining 1/3 would e sent back to the trailer. With that being said you would still be safe on you numbers assuming you are not getting your numbers from a brochure and actually have weighed your travel trailer. Should be a safe tow, have fun and good luck!

[eddeeeee]

Hitch weight is the weight of the hitch itself ( ie, equalizer, Hensley, etc. )

Tongue weight is the weight that the truck must support. When using a weight distributing hitch, such as the planned equalizer, some of that weight will be carried by the trailer.

I towed a 28' 4550# dry trailer with my 06 Sequoia for 2 years. It did a great job. I tow in Colorado, so even though the 06 would tow the 10000', 7% passes at 45-50 mph, I felt I was working the transmission a little too hard. On anything less than that you should do great.

[Marazzito]

Did you mean Hitch weight or Tongue weight? If you meant hitch weight than you are missing a number in your math.

[Drum_Phil]

Originally Posted by Marazzito

Did you mean Hitch weight or Tongue weight? If you meant hitch weight than you are missing a number in your math.

Just to clarify, when I said 100 lbs., I was referring to just the weight of the Equal-i-zer Hitch. I obtained that weight from here (Equal-i-zer's website). That's why I included that weight on the TT rather than the Sequoia. I didn't add any weights for the Class III hitch on the Sequoia as the UVW(Curb Weight) of 5,450 lbs. is the exact weight for my Sequoia's trim package. (The hitch was standard on the Limited package so the weight of the tow package(ie Class III hitch) is already included in the 5,450 lbs..)

Now I am still unclear on the Tongue Weights for my set-up. The Equal-i-zer Hitch is both a Sway Control and WDH. Given the specs on my 1,000/10,000 Equal-i-zer hitch AND the Class III hitch (rated to 5,000 as I understand it), am I within tolerances here?

[eddeeeee]

You are correct, the weight of the class III hitch reciever is included in the truck weight.

Tongue weight is the weight from the trailer that is not supported on the trailer axles. If you tried to lift the trailer by the tongue, the amount of weight you would have to lift is the tongue weight. It should be 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer and is usually listed in the trailer brochure. If you don't have the brochure, you can determine the weight by going to a certified scale and weighing the truck on it's own, and then with the trailer attached. Make sure the equalizer bars are loose when taking this measurement and also make sure the trailer wheels are not on the scale. The difference between the measurements is your tongue weight. After you get your measurement, you can tighten your equalizer bars back up and get another reading. That will tell you how much weight is really on your truck ( about 1/3 of the weight should go back to the trailer when you tighten the bars up ) when you are traveling so you can be sure you are within the gvwr of the truck.

I usually get these measurements at a landscape supply house on a wednesday afternoon. They are usually not busy and they allow me to keep their scale tied up for 5-10 minutes. They usually charge me about $0-$10.

And yes, you should get the largest weight distribution bars you can get, as long as the tongue on your trailer can support them. Some lightweight c channel or small box frames can only take 750 or 1000# bars.

[quarque]

Originally Posted by Drum_Phil

Just to clarify, when I said 100 lbs., I was referring to just the weight of the Equal-i-zer Hitch. I obtained that weight from here (Equal-i-zer's website). That's why I included that weight on the TT rather than the Sequoia. I didn't add any weights for the Class III hitch on the Sequoia as the UVW(Curb Weight) of 5,450 lbs. is the exact weight for my Sequoia's trim package. (The hitch was standard on the Limited package so the weight of the tow package(ie Class III hitch) is already included in the 5,450 lbs..)

Now I am still unclear on the Tongue Weights for my set-up. The Equal-i-zer Hitch is both a Sway Control and WDH. Given the specs on my 1,000/10,000 Equal-i-zer hitch AND the Class III hitch (rated to 5,000 as I understand it), am I within tolerances here?

There have been many reports about the Equal-i-zer being VERY loud in use. The friction-based part causes awful squealling and groaning during turns. You might want to consider other brands. Do a search on TS for Loud Equal-i-zer.

[Drum_Phil]

Originally Posted by quarque

There have been many reports about the Equal-i-zer being VERY loud in use. The friction-based part causes awful squealling and groaning during turns. You might want to consider other brands. Do a search on TS for Loud Equal-i-zer.

Thanks for the input quarque. I did find and read the TS thread to which you were referring. As safety is my primary concern, I'll deal with some noise from the Equal-i-zer Hitch. Other discussions on other forums seem to be a bit of a mixed bag in regards to the hitch's noise output. Some say that the noise was only bothersome during the initial break-in period as the paint was being worn-down and then was just fine, especially after having applied the Equal-i-zer lubricant sparingly in the recommended locations.

The manufacturer, Progress Manufacturing, must have received quite a few complaints about the noise issue which then resulted in their development of their Sway Jacket Brackets. I'm inclined to use these noise-reduction brackets only if the noise is obnoxious and continues well after the break-in period.

As info, the Sway Bracket Jackets are in a pilot redevelopment program after cracking issues were reported by customers.

We shall see.