OK, first... I don't have an owners manual for my 06 DC. (lifted with 5100s on 265s.)
I am going to pick up a boat in 2 days (24'searay) and just curious as to what are the basics? just hook it up and go or is there anything I MUST do? don't bash me too bad
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
Do you have a brake controller and firestone airbags? I would suggest both as I use them on a horse trailer.
neither. I was thinking brake controller. I have a 1.5" AAL out back
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
Brake controller is not going to do much good if the trailer does not have electric brakes.
So does it? if so then yes it would be a good thing.
Does the trailer have tandem axles?
what is the tongue weight? Total weight of the boat?
Does your truck have the factory receiver hitch and 7 pin plug?
Are you buying this new used or?
Your truck is a pulling machine and can pull more than its safe do to so be cautious and provide some figures. Ray or Tom should be popping in soon as all.
not sure of tongue weight but boat and trailer are just over 5K unloaded
factory hitch w/7pin
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, it most likely has a reverse bypass valve. With the correct adaptor, your 7-pin should be wired up to send 12 volts when the truck is in reverse. You may have problems backing if the valve exists and the wiring is incorrect.
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, it most likely has a reverse bypass valve. With the correct adaptor, your 7-pin should be wired up to send 12 volts when the truck is in reverse. You may have problems backing if the valve exists and the wiring is incorrect.
ok, thanks... didn't know that. They are electric brakes (what I was told)
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2006 DC SR5
Bilstein 5100s F&R
Wheelers 1.5" AAL
285 Nittos on OEM Alloys
Flowmaster Delta 40
LUND Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
WADE in-Channel Visors
Lil Boom under the seat compliments of RF
Full LED conversion
Nothing too fancy, just better than stock!
Ok then
A brake controller in the cab will be needed
The dual axle should make it a sweet pull
I would suggest air bags, they don't increase carrying capacity but really stabilize things in the rear.
I agree on the brake controller, get that if you plan on towing. Most boat trailers I've seen have surge brakes though. You know, the type like on U-haul trailers where the brakes are controlled by the tongue. You don't need a brake controller for surge brakes.
I was told that high dollar boat trailers, like the triple axle trailers on Fountains and Donzis have a different type of brake system (I think he said that they were hydraulic. The P3 is able to control those brakes as well as the regular electric brakes found on most trailers
The reason most have surge brakes instead of electric is due to water and shorting things out.
He is advising there trailer does have electric brakes, so do they suggest disconnecting the plug prior to backing down the ramp?
There are a couple of brake controllers that work for electric or electric/hydraulic. Ours (TruControl Silver or Gold) and the Techonsha P3. I thin MaxBrake does but that requires a tap into the truck's brake line. Probably more than you'll want to mess with.
Surge brakes seem to be fading into the past. You'd definately know if you had them (you'd be cursing a lot for one thing). The air bags are fine, but not a safety issue. The brake controller and wiring should be your top priority.
Help me out guys, my 2000 has the towing package but I never found this 7pin everyone speaks of??? I bought the truck used and it looks as if someone tried to wire the pig tail at home. I've had this truck for 7years but just recently have a need for heavier towing than just a little 12' trl. I have aal in the rear and 2.5" SAW in the front, I want airbags and a brake controller. 1) Can I put bags w/ aal's? 2) Is there a easy way for me to tell if my rig is wired for trl brakes? Any other suggestions or ideas would be great!!!
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2000 4x4 SR5 Access Cab White
2.5" SAW Coilovers
LT285/75R16 Firestone Destination M/Ts
Westin Brush Guard W/ KC highlights
Sirius Sat
Shadowgrass seat covers
Blacked out windows
Magna-flo W/ Duals
Kenwood DVD w/ Garmin Nav
JBA Titanium coated headers
4.30 gears
Tru-Speed
Uni-Chip
2 JL Audio 8's in Q-Logic
Help me out guys, my 2000 has the towing package but I never found this 7pin everyone speaks of??? I bought the truck used and it looks as if someone tried to wire the pig tail at home. I've had this truck for 7years but just recently have a need for heavier towing than just a little 12' trl. I have aal in the rear and 2.5" SAW in the front, I want airbags and a brake controller. 1) Can I put bags w/ aal's? 2) Is there a easy way for me to tell if my rig is wired for trl brakes? Any other suggestions or ideas would be great!!!
Toyota didn't start doing the wire harness on their trucks until the last few years, so your 2000 does not have it. I had a 2000 tundra as well, and i had to do it all myself. PITA if you ask me.
I assume you're talking add a leaf in the rear?
I would think you could still put airbags on it.
YOur truck will not be wired for trailer brakes, unless the previous owner had a controller in the truck. If you locate the brake light switch up under the steering column, you may see where someone tapped into the wire. Or you could look for a 10 guage wire going back from the cab to the hitch location.
Those brake light switches are a PITA to find & tap into, but we did it.
Another important item is to get the hitch set up so that the boat trailer is level with the truck. If you are travelling a long distance to pick up the boat, I would recommend you pick up several ball mount inserts with different drops (0", 1", 2") so you can figure out which one works the best in the field and then return the ones you didn't need.
Also, if the boat (and hence trailer) is used, make sure the hubs on the trailer wheels are in good shape, they should be full of marine grease and ready to go. Neglected wheel bearing are the most common reason for seeing boat trailers on the side of the highways! Ask them to show you how to lube the bearing so you know and can verify they are all set. Most have a grease fitting (zerk/nipple) behind a gasket that seals out the water you can remove and hit with a grease gun.