I bought this truck with the future plans on getting a 20/22ft camper. I was a bit concerned with the weight at first (first big tow), but it turned out to be a good combo.
Drove from Denver area to Ohio to pick it up. 44 hours seat time and 2700 miles. The 06 DC TRD 4x4 did fine with the 2010 230RS Outback. Equal-i-zer hitch, Primus brake controller, McKesh mirrors. About 8-9mpg, I was keeping it around 65-70mph to make it back in a couple of days. At 55-58, I got just over 10, sometimes around 11mpg. At 75, 7.5mpg.
Equal-i-zer 1200/12000lb keep it straight and true, with big trucks causing a uniform push of the trailer and truck at first, then an equal pull about 3/4s of the way thru the pass. I know the hitch is overkill, but it worked out fine.
JR
Hookup/hitch setup at Holman's RV Batavia, OH. Measure, adjust, hookup again, repeated about 2 times. Following manufactures directions put it spot on. 3/4 inch squat in front and back, nice an even.
None what-so-ever. I could still pass trucks on uphill grades.
I know it's close, but we keep that in mind when loading out. Water tank will only carry about 1/3 for travel bathroom use and we'll be on camp water and electricity while stopped, emptying holding tanks at 1/2 full.
The topper will come off soon also.
Besides, I plan on keeping the trailer for a while and it'll be nice behind the diesel, when Toyota get's around to it.......
If I remember right, when I bought my trailer, the manual said my tow capacity was 7100. I haven't gotten to tow my trailer yet, unfortunately I've been living in it full time for a year and a half, since we lost our house.
I know I will be needing a dist. hitch when the time comes, and if your set up works well (and sounds like it did great if you were able to run 75 mph and around big trucks), I would be interested in the specs. on it. (Make, model, etc. - did it come with the trailer purchase, or did you buy it seperate, if so, how much, if you don't mind me asking).
Another question, do you tow other trailers or was this fairly new to you? I haven't towed a lot, so my first outing with this big a trailer will be interesting. Mine is 26', 30-31' counting the tongue.
Equal-izer brand hitch, purchased earlier off craigslist. These tend to go fast when they show up on the list, I noticed. It's 1200/12000lb capacity. Set up is straight forward, just follow the manual and then adjust as needed. Sway control is built in. This company has been around with this design for many years. No need to do anything to back up, as with other friction type sway controllers.
I've towed in the past, everything from utility trailers, to military 2 1/2 ton Deuce-and-a-halves with pintil tows. Boats, hay trailers, smaller campers, etc.
There is a calculation you can run with your wheelbase to determine what is the max suggested trailer length for your vehicle. Mine worked out to 27". With the total length of the trailer (counting the tongue), I was right at 27". Your setup may be a tad over.
I couldn't afford a new Airstream (top notch quality, high resale value), and the Keystone Outback had all the features I was looking for. One key feature was the rear slide bed. Too many I looked at had the bed inside and it seemed to take up half the trailers living space. Plus a bed area at the other end of the camper (kiddo area). I didn't want to take down the table and/or couch every night to make room to sleep.
Forrest River has a Surveyor model with the same rear slide bed, but the quality on the outback just felt better. The FR Surveyor has an electric rear slide. Keystone a manual. A nod to the FR Surveyor here. I could have been happy with this unit also.
Sealed, heated underbelly was another key feature. Airstreams have them, and both of the others do as well. Forrest River has heat pads as a factory option under all the tanks.
Both had the ducted heat and air. Heats and cools better, it seems to me. My buddys older Airstream has the ducted heat, but the air is central at the unit. Each end of the camper takes a while to cool down. Some Airstream owners pull the rear vent and put an extra A/C unit in to overcome this.
I read a lot on-line about what people liked and disliked, then looked for the features that mattered. I was all set to pull the trigger on the 210RS, but at the last minute picked the 230RS due to the toy hauler door (easier to load and unload gear) and the full size bed up front, vice the two bunks.
We're towing our new Wildwood 27' trailer from Chicago to Seattle (and back) and we're leaving this coming Friday (July 3rd). That's about 4,600 miles round trip. I was very concerned about going through the Rockies with the trailer, but I feel a bit more at ease after reading about your experience with your Outback.
The wife will probably pile on extra weight with the clothes for her and the kids and the big Coleman grille. Not to mention the fact that we'll probably need a new generator and all the other stuff that you need for a big trip like this.
I sure am glad I bought a trailer that weighs 4,100 lbs empty, since the add-ons can pile up the weight really quick!
We're taking I-90 out there and we're going to swing a bit south on the way back to stop at Yellowstone and then take I-80 for the rest of the way back.
Are there any reasons I should avoid either route? Dangerous grades? Poor roads? Construction???
I'd appreciate any advice you can offer, since you live out that way and have towing experience in the Rockies.
We're towing our new Wildwood 27' trailer from Chicago to Seattle (and back) and we're leaving this coming Friday (July 3rd). That's about 4,600 miles round trip. I was very concerned about going through the Rockies with the trailer, but I feel a bit more at ease after reading about your experience with your Outback.
The wife will probably pile on extra weight with the clothes for her and the kids and the big Coleman grille. Not to mention the fact that we'll probably need a new generator and all the other stuff that you need for a big trip like this.
I sure am glad I bought a trailer that weighs 4,100 lbs empty, since the add-ons can pile up the weight really quick!
We're taking I-90 out there and we're going to swing a bit south on the way back to stop at Yellowstone and then take I-80 for the rest of the way back.
Are there any reasons I should avoid either route? Dangerous grades? Poor roads? Construction???
I'd appreciate any advice you can offer, since you live out that way and have towing experience in the Rockies.
Thanx.
Depends on where you are going to get on I-80. There are some seriously nasty grades all the way between California and just west of Cheyenne, WY on 80 but the rest of the trip on 80 is just rolling hills. Drove 80 from Ohio to Nevada a month or so ago. Lots of construction at the Iowa/Illinois border. Road condition is soso through Nevada, pretty good in Utah, has the washboard effect all the way through Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa until you get into Illinois then the right lane is like driving on the moon.
I also seriously considered the Outback, I liked the lay out and the garage.
If I was just using it for fun, I probably would have gone with the Outback too.
Just a little insight to the "enclosed, heated underbelly". The "HEATED UNDERBELLY / TANKS" was a big reason we bought what we did, only to find out different later. It's heated by the furnace ducts (heat radiating from the ducting), and only when the furnace is running. I know from experience, this will not keep your pipes and tanks from freezing if you plan on doing any winter / cold camping. I had the heat pads installed on all three tanks the first winter (after freezing up multiple times). Also, there is no insulation in that underbelly, at least not in mine. So, IMO, what they consider a selling point, should be a mute point.
Like I said, I live in mine year round, and have had to make many alterations to get through the winters (8" insulation added to belly, 1 1/2" styrofoam skirting around bottom, heat tape on all external water lines). I call it the "ARTIC SPECIAL."
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to burst your bubble or anything, I think you did great with the trailer. I'm just trying to help out a fellow RV'r. Just some food for thought, before you take the wife and kids up to the mountains.
I couldn't afford a new Airstream (top notch quality, high resale value), and the Keystone Outback had all the features I was looking for. One key feature was the rear slide bed. Too many I looked at had the bed inside and it seemed to take up half the trailers living space. Plus a bed area at the other end of the camper (kiddo area). I didn't want to take down the table and/or couch every night to make room to sleep.
Forrest River has a Surveyor model with the same rear slide bed, but the quality on the outback just felt better. The FR Surveyor has an electric rear slide. Keystone a manual. A nod to the FR Surveyor here. I could have been happy with this unit also.
Sealed, heated underbelly was another key feature. Airstreams have them, and both of the others do as well. Forrest River has heat pads as a factory option under all the tanks.
Both had the ducted heat and air. Heats and cools better, it seems to me. My buddys older Airstream has the ducted heat, but the air is central at the unit. Each end of the camper takes a while to cool down. Some Airstream owners pull the rear vent and put an extra A/C unit in to overcome this.
I read a lot on-line about what people liked and disliked, then looked for the features that mattered. I was all set to pull the trigger on the 210RS, but at the last minute picked the 230RS due to the toy hauler door (easier to load and unload gear) and the full size bed up front, vice the two bunks.
Thanks for the info very nice unit..........
could you post what you paid? PM if you prefer just trying to get an idea vs dealer window stickers locally
Tundra and Keystone Outback
At 75, 7.5mpg.
Linear Mode
