For some reason when I'm towing my racecar, my '00 Tundra 4x4 TRD feels like it has a wheel out of balance. The whole truck get a little shake going on from about 45-70mph. I had the tires re-balanced and the truck aligned, because the tires were showing some signs of cupping. However, I'm not real convinced my Toyota dealer actually did an alignment, because the rusted-up alignment bolts didn't look like they had been touched. With the torque they they need to break lose & set, they should have had some wrench marking on them. And, yes I did address this with them. Anyway, the tires have also been rotated and the truck still has this shake going on. The car & trailer are about 4300# and we have about 300-400 in the bed. The trailer tires have not been balanced, a tire shop I spoke with said it wasn't necessary, but I gotta do something about this. I'll be towing 7-hrs up to Watkins Glen at the end of the month and I don't think I can deal with it for that long. So is this a truck alignment issue, trailer tire balance issue or a trailer load issue? I think it's a truck alignment issue... Any thoughts or suggestions
(Also posted in 1-gen Tundra section)
The bolt problem might not be a problem. If it was in spec, they would not have to touch it. did you ask how far it was off?
Are the trailer tires old? If so you might want to get new ones. trailer tires die by age more than wear on tread. If they are not old, get them balanced, and see how far they were off.You could have 2 tires reinforcing each other and giving you your problem.
The trailer is an '06 model. So the tires are 3-4 yrs old. They look pretty good, no signs of even mild cracking. They should do me for at least 2 more years, before they need replacing because of age. Balance issue with them could be the problem, but I really don't notice the shake until the car is on the trailer. So I'm thinking the extra wait is throwing the front of the Tundra out of alignment. Yes, the dealers "in spec" might not be good enough. Most "spec" alignments are not optimal anyway. The before and after alignment #s were only different by at most 2/10s. I think the truck needs to move a little into the neg. camber range, from slight positive it currently has.
It might not be the alignment. I imagine you've looked at the trailer wheel bearings. Might not be bad enough to be noticeable without weight but loaded, that shake can transfer to the towing vehicle. How much does your rear end drop with the weight on? Can you move the car a bit back on the trailer if you have too much tongue weight?
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
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Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
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Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
I have a 4 x 6 utility trailer. with the trailer full to the top, it pulls great. have an empty trailer or just half full and it sways back and forth. It has pulled smoothly on my car for many years so I knew it wasn't the trailer. It is the aerodynamics of the bed and trailer bed causing it. If a new cap on the truck doesn't fix it, I will have to redesign the trailer. Maybe you have a similar issue. Do you use a tire rack? Can you adjust the position of the car to change tongue weight?
And get the tires balanced to eliminate that. Are you sure the tires were new?
It might not be the alignment. I imagine you've looked at the trailer wheel bearings. Might not be bad enough to be noticeable without weight but loaded, that shake can transfer to the towing vehicle. How much does your rear end drop with the weight on? Can you move the car a bit back on the trailer if you have too much tongue weight?
Trailer hubs are adjust just how the dealer suggested. The ball probably drops about 4" when loaded. I could probably move the car back maybe 6" from where it is, I have more room to move it forward... Was thinking about putting a tire rack on the trailer and getting them out of my truck bed. Of course, that will put more weight on the ball.
The tire rack, may had been a source of your problem which it is not. so do you know your tongue weight and total weight?
Then by knowing you can reposition the weight intelligently.
Got pic of the setup?
Moving the car back might do the trick. Also whatever you are loading in the bed of your truck should be toward the front to keep some weight on the front axle.
You could do some weight checks, is there a DOT scale near where you live? Are you allowed to check your weights on them? I weighed my rig here, it's very useful information, axle by axle and hooked up vs. unhooked.
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
I have a 4 x 6 utility trailer. with the trailer full to the top, it pulls great. have an empty trailer or just half full and it sways back and forth. It has pulled smoothly on my car for many years so I knew it wasn't the trailer. It is the aerodynamics of the bed and trailer bed causing it. If a new cap on the truck doesn't fix it, I will have to redesign the trailer. Maybe you have a similar issue. Do you use a tire rack? Can you adjust the position of the car to change tongue weight?
And get the tires balanced to eliminate that. Are you sure the tires were new?
This is a '16 dual axel car hauler, so it's pretty stable back there. The trailer an '06 that I bought new in '07, so the tires should be good for a couple more years... I hope!
If it only shakes while towing (or with a sunken rear end) check your U-joints. A truck your age might be due for new U-joints. And that would explain why you don't feel it unloaded, because as you add weight to the rear the angle changes in the U-joints and so does the stress.
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Thought about something on the way home tonight. Every now-and-then on the highway, I'll hit the brakes and get a simular shake and a little brake pedal pulsing. Never notice it at slower speeds. Perhaps I have a bad brake drum and when the truck is loaded during towing the rear brake adjustment is causing a little bit of drag on that drum and making the truck sort-of wag it's tail. I don't know that the rear brakes have ever been serviced on this truck. I have planned to check them and have a set of shoes in storage, just haven't had the time yet to mess with them.
The parking brake is a different brake than the rear brakes, at least on the 07+. The rear brakes are discs, and there is a smaller drum brake in the middle that's the parking brake. Or do you have rear drums only?
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
The parking brake is a different brake than the rear brakes, at least on the 07+. The rear brakes are discs, and there is a smaller drum brake in the middle that's the parking brake. Or do you have rear drums only?
I have a 2000, so drums only.
I'm going to go get the truck re-aligned today, not at the Dealer, and have them spec it for towing. Keeping my fingers crossed that this works and I don't have to spend more. Just did the Timing Belt on the thing. Between the racecar, truck & trailer, I have no time or money left.