I'd like to get one for my wife's Honda Accord, but the maximum towing speed on this trailer says 55mph, and I'll be d@mned if I want to travel at 55 on an interstate with a 70mph limit.
Are these things really only safe up to 55, or this one of those things the manufacturer says just to cover their azz and absolve them from liability?
That is there basic 3 1/2' X 4' utility trailer with a roof box on it. I have one although it doesn't get much use. I was going to build it into a box cargo but never got around to it.
Those trailers are light duty but fine. The 55 is what they say on almost all trailers.
That's basically a rooftop carrier box on HF's entry-level trailer. We have a rooftop carrier box for my wife's Honda Element. The problem with those rooftop boxes is that they're not very sturdy (thin plastic) and their odd shape (for the sake of aerodynamics) doesn't allow you much room at all to pack your gear or clothing. You basically can only use the bottom half of these clamshell carriers and again, they're made from thin plastic and they're weak. I re-enforced the bottom of my wife's carrier with resin bracing, a thin sheet of plywood and non-skid rubber matting over the plywood just to make it "workable" enough to carry basic camping gear. Before I did this, the plastic carrier would only hold up to 30 to 40 pounds worth of clothing/sleeping bags/gear before it would buckle on the edges so badly that it wouldn't close properly and couldn't be locked with the cheapo (read: "useless") latches.
As for the trailer itself, I have a Harbor Freight near my house and upon inspection, their entry level trailers are junk, plain and simple. I've also personally checked out the entry-level trailers from Northern Tool and they are MUCH better constructed than the HF ones, with nearly double the weight capacity. They're cheaper, too! Check the ratings and comments...
You could even put two of them back-to-back with one lid opening toward the front and the other toward the back. If you want to make it super-sturdy and bulletprooof, put a piece of wood 2x4 between the two boxes and bolt them to eachother from their backs, too. These boxes are easily ten times more sturdy than the cheap, clamshell carrier on that HF trailer. The hinges and locks are way better, too. Trust me on this, you'll get LOTS more usable storage space and again, the Northern Tool trailer is rated at nearly twice the weight handling capacity as the Harbor Freight trailer. Sure, the HF trailer looks more "cute" than what I'm suggesting, but for the same amount of money (and a minimal amount of modification) you'll get about 300% more usable storage space and better, sturdier trailer. You can also un-bolt the boxes and have a little flatbed trailer for other uses, too. Thus, giving you more utility options.
Autocrossers and other low budget racers pull thousands of the HF 4'x4' trailers with race tires & a toolbox on them. We dont' stay under 55.
Get one with the 12" rims and not 8". The 8" overheat the bearings at highway speeds. Replace the tires with some better quality tires and the trailer will ride better too.
Replacing the lights with a set of LED lights ($40 at HF) also lessens the current draw on your car. You can flip the axle on top of the leaf springs to lower the trailer as well if needed with the accord hitch. It helps it behind an MR2 anyways, as the hitch is usually pretty low.
__________________
~Michael
2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 2WD - Toy Hauler / 2006 Toyota Sienna Limited - Kid Hauler / 1993 Toyota MR2 - Autocross Car
Mods: Tekonsha P3; Tow Mirrors; TRD Wheels; TPMS Pipe Bomb
I definitely agree that I'd avoid the one in the OP, if only because of the 8" wheels.
This is the HF trailer most of us use with the 12" wheels, it appears to be identical to the NT one and has the same 1090lb rating. Probably made in the same factory in China:
Don't buy them at HF if they are not on sale. HF stuff drops considerably in price for sales, it's the only way to buy stuff there. Yes, I know it's scam-ey.
Don't forget a spare tire.
__________________
~Michael
2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 2WD - Toy Hauler / 2006 Toyota Sienna Limited - Kid Hauler / 1993 Toyota MR2 - Autocross Car
Mods: Tekonsha P3; Tow Mirrors; TRD Wheels; TPMS Pipe Bomb
I definitely agree that I'd avoid the one in the OP, if only because of the 8" wheels.
This is the HF trailer most of us use with the 12" wheels, it appears to be identical to the NT one and has the same 1090lb rating. Probably made in the same factory in China:
Don't buy them at HF if they are not on sale. HF stuff drops considerably in price for sales, it's the only way to buy stuff there. Yes, I know it's scam-ey.
Don't forget a spare tire.
Yep, I wouldn't doubt that the 1,090 lb HF trailer and the one I posted from Northern tool are made at the same factory in China. The specs are nearly the same. But the one I posted from NT is on sale for $50 less than the one at HF.
Yep, I wouldn't doubt that the 1,090 lb HF trailer and the one I posted from Northern tool are made at the same factory in China. The specs are nearly the same. But the one I posted from NT is on sale for $50 less than the one at HF.
The $50 is probably the 8" vs 12" tires.
The HF one goes on sale for around $180-$200, which is when I would pick it up. Sales happen often.
__________________
~Michael
2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 2WD - Toy Hauler / 2006 Toyota Sienna Limited - Kid Hauler / 1993 Toyota MR2 - Autocross Car
Mods: Tekonsha P3; Tow Mirrors; TRD Wheels; TPMS Pipe Bomb
Up until last month we used to tow one similar to the second one (modified with a diamond plate cargo box) and 6 wheels/tires behind my wife's track car.
It's been at 70 -80mph for extended periods with no issues. Bought it used, used it for 4 years with no issues. Just make sure to get the hitch mounted / secured appropriately for the weight you'll have on the trailer. Some of the passenger car hookups are flimsy at best.
__________________ Tow: 2009 Tundra DC SR5 5.7 Mods and Adds: Prodigy, under seat storage, Avic-F90BT Nav w/ HD module, backup camera, TRD 18w/ CrossContact LX e-rated,
glass break sensor, Homelink Mirror, Hardwired Valentine One w/ Blendmount, TRD rear sway, Valor tip, bed step, G4 tonneau Next: 35% tint, helper springs or bags Haul 2008 Continental Cargo Enclosed Car Hauler 22ft V-nose, Reese WDH Daily: 2005 Lexus LS430 Ultra-Luxury * PCS * ML * Rear Fridge * Massaging and Reclining Rear Seats * Vaistech SL-I * Coastal Lockpick Track: 1998 BMW E36 M3/4 track car (wife's) Float: Sea Ray 240 Sundeck
Mine has 8" wheels and had no problem at higher speeds. I also have another that is a popup frame with those same tires. They are not a problem at speed. I would only go with the bigger tires if you are going to carry more weight than a rooftop box was designed for. It will make that little trailer bounce more.
Mine was originally used as a race car tire, tools and parts carrier.
HF sells a model with a metal box on it, may be better for your needs. And beside the HF sale prices, they frequently have a 15 % or 20 % coupon to lower the price further.
My trailer is a 1999 so they do last.
Well, despite some minor differences, the general agreement here seems to be that the little trailer with the plastic box isn't the best option.
I like your little trailer, Dave. That's the type of thing I was trying to get the OP to lean toward. Something more durable that can handle a little more weight. The dinky trailer with the clamshell carrier is too light and will be bouncing all over the place, not to mention the lack of cargo space.
Well, despite some minor differences, the general agreement here seems to be that the little trailer with the plastic box isn't the best option.
I like your little trailer, Dave. That's the type of thing I was trying to get the OP to lean toward. Something more durable that can handle a little more weight. The dinky trailer with the clamshell carrier is too light and will be bouncing all over the place, not to mention the lack of cargo space.
I guess one of the considerations I had was weight; I don't want the trailer to be too much of a strain on the Honda so I was thinking "light weight". It is unlikely I'd ever go over the weight limit with cargo.
An accord if it is running on more than half its cylinders will have no problem towing a fully loaded little trailer. And it should be level with your hitch so that will help with towing.
I guess one of the considerations I had was weight; I don't want the trailer to be too much of a strain on the Honda so I was thinking "light weight". It is unlikely I'd ever go over the weight limit with cargo.
Then what's the point even using a trailer? A trailer needs to be licensed, which is also an extra cost. Why not pop a Thule or Yakima rack and a clamshell carrier on the top of the car and save yourself some money?
But if it's a trailer you truly prefer, there's not a single trailer suggested here that would even impose even a miniscule amount of strain on an Accord, even if the Accord has a four-banger. Honestly, the Accord wouldn't even know it's back there. From my perspective, I'm trying to help you out by suggesting a trailer that would be way more durable and offer much more cargo space. The one you posted in your original post only offers a "usable" cargo space that's equal to about 1/4 of the Accord's trunk. I don't think that's worth $429, not by a longshot.
Just remember, the top half of a clamshell carrier is practically useless. I've been using a clamshell carrier for 6 years now on the wife's Element and believe me, all it offers is just a minimal amount of extra space for lightweight stuff like sleeping bags, pillows and some clothes, that's all they're really good for. Heck, it wasn't even good for our heavy sleeping bags until I modified it.
Small Cargo Trailers
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