I am trying to choose an RV but I am still not clear on the differences in the weight rating capacities. The inside door panel of my 2009 DC 4X4 5.7 says “combined total weight of occupants and cargo not to exceed 1395 lbs.” The GVWR reads 7100 lbs. so I assume the truck weighs roughly 5705 lbs. unloaded?? My confusion comes from the GAWR of Front: 4000 lbs. and Rear: 4150 lbs combined 8150 lbs.……So which do you go by, GVWR or GAWR for load capacities when towing?
I am currently looking at a few different models of RV’s but I will give 2 examples, one a 5th wheel the other a TT:
I know these are two very different trailers but there are not many 5th wheels with the lighter pin weights and the TT is the max size we are interested in. I understand the “dry or unloaded” weights are not going to be actual weight on the trailer or the truck and I will have to add in occupants, cargo, etc.….(what does a hitch weigh?)
The short of the question is what is my max hitch weight for 5th wheel or WD hitch considering “dry” numbers? I will deduct hitches, passengers, and cargo from this weight. Will something like the above weights work?
Thanks for any help.
You will want about 12% on the tongue of your loaded trailer weight for bumper mount. Guessing @ 1000lb extra weight in the Jayco, 12% of 9000lb is 1080lb. That leaves you 315lbs for what's in the truck. I hope you and yours are skinny.
Gross truck weight limit is 7100lb, not the combination of the axle limits. The axles are rated individually. Best thing to do is weigh your truck with full tank and you in it, and subtract it from 7100. That is your load carrying capacity.
If we go by GVWR and the capacity posted on the door panel then both the units posted above would be pushing the limit once loaded. I have read a lot on this forum where folks are towing 5th wheels heavier than the one above so I was hoping I had my numbers wrong.
If the 1395 lbs capacity is the number to go with than I probably need to be looking for a dry weigh of not more than 7000 lbs for 12% WD hitch; or if I go with a 5th wheel than the hitch weight of less than a 1000 lbs would probably work (that one will be hard to find).
Being a hundred or two over carry capacity I don't feel is a big thing if you have changed the tires to something rated to actually carry weight and add helper springs or air bags.
My Tundra pulls the Rockwood like a breeze, and with the helper springs sits nice and level.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
JBA Headers
Gone but not forgotten~
Last edited by Tankerhank; 07-31-2009 at 10:41 AM.
I find it interesting that your capacity is only 1400 lbs. my DCLB is over 1600 lbs, I wonder if the reduced capacity is because of being a 4X4.
I thought this was interesting too as reading the info available on the Tundra listed payloads for this truck to be closer to 1600 lbs.....I was a little dissapointed after reading the sticker inside the door.
Well if one was to push the limits or even be a couple hundred pounds over.....What is the best tow type, 5th wheel or TT w/ WD hitch? Is there a max tounge weight for the hitch on the Tundra?
I have to say flat out the 5th wheel is the easiest to pull. Simple question is how many semi-trucks do you see pulling in the 5th wheel setup?
Both types of trailers put close to the same hitch load on the truck, the TT hangs it off the back end behind the axle, the 5'er puts it over the axle.
I like some interior features of a TT but that is where it ends with me for a TT. Pulling and backing a 5'er is a lot nicer.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
JBA Headers
Gone but not forgotten~
"Technically" speaking you should go by the GVWR. The axle ratings do not take the other components of the vehicle into account. However, I don't think all GVWRs are hard and fast "don not exceed" ratings.
Also, the 12% tongue weight is not always necessary if other factors are controlled. In fact, towing a travel trailer can be every bit as stable as a fifth wheel with the proper equipment.
Ok....I've been doing some more reading on all this....and watched the video above (thanks)....please correct me if I am wrong on my understanding?
The WD hitch works as a pivot point where weight is transferred from the tongue to the front of the tow vehicle and back to the trailer. So if I have 1200 lbs tongue weight to start, I will be moving 400 lbs to the front axle and 400 lbs to the trailer axels, leaving 400 lbs on the rear. This would result in 800 lbs total on the tow vehicle? Is this how this works? Is the 800 lbs what is to be deducted from my 1395 lbs cargo capacity? What is considered tongue weight in this scenario, 800 lbs or 400 lbs?
Ok....I've been doing some more reading on all this....and watched the video above (thanks)....please correct me if I am wrong on my understanding?
The WD hitch works as a pivot point where weight is transferred from the tongue to the front of the tow vehicle and back to the trailer. So if I have 1200 lbs tongue weight to start, I will be moving 400 lbs to the front axle and 400 lbs to the trailer axels, leaving 400 lbs on the rear. This would result in 800 lbs total on the tow vehicle? Is this how this works? Is the 800 lbs what is to be deducted from my 1395 lbs cargo capacity? What is considered tongue weight in this scenario, 800 lbs or 400 lbs?
Your theory is correct but, in reality, the weight distribution bars do not distribute 1/3, 1/3 and 1/3 of the tongue weight. With a 1200 tongue weight you may only get a couple hundred of that to the front axle and maybe 300-400 of it would show on the rear axle.
Your theory is correct but, in reality, the weight distribution bars do not distribute 1/3, 1/3 and 1/3 of the tongue weight. With a 1200 tongue weight you may only get a couple hundred of that to the front axle and maybe 300-400 of it would show on the rear axle.
So would tongue weight be the 1200 less the 300-400 moved to the trailer axels? This would be the weight to subtract from the GVWR? ~(800 - 900 lbs.)
So would tongue weight be the 1200 less the 300-400 moved to the trailer axels? This would be the weight to subtract from the GVWR? ~(800 - 900 lbs.)
I don't think you'd get 300-400 of the tongue weight back to the trailer axles.
The problem is trying to guess. The only way to know for sure is to put the entire rig on a scale. If you are determining what you can buy and you stay "around" your ratings, yes slightly over or under, you will be fine.
To the O.P. My 2007 DC 4X4 5.7 rates 1,530 lbs. Is it possible that you don't have the tow package? If you don't have the transmission temperature gauge, transmission cooler, and 10.5" rear differential, your truck isn't going to like being loaded to the max as much as if you did have these features. Of course transmission cooler can always be added, and going by my own experience the temp gauge doesn't seem to do much. It's never even budged from the middle of the range.
Anyway, I have towed both big travel trailers and 5th wheels and I'm much happier with a 5th wheel. The down side is loss of bed space in your truck to haul other stuff like bikes or quads or whatever but after you've put 1,000 lbs on your bumper, even with a weight distributing hitch, you don't have a lot of weight capacity left.
Pulling into a filling station with 30 feet of trailer behind you and ensuring that you can gas up and still get out without hitting anything can be dicey, backing up can be iffy in a narrow or curved camping spot, and in both cases I prefer the 5th. But where they shine is driving down the road. You can have 1,500 lbs + directly over your rear axle and as long as tires are good and it's not compressing the suspension too much (this is where air bags are useful) towing is more stable going down the road.
In either event, your original question has a simple answer: according to ratings you should not exceed 7,100 lbs GVWR or 4,150 lbs rear axle, or 4,000 lbs front axle, or 16,000 lbs total for vehicle and trailer, or, 10,300 lbs towed weight (including the weight on the trailer hitch. However in reality many people choose to willfully ignore these published numbers and of course thereby incur some risk that if something breaks it might not be covered by Toyota's warranty.
If you've been reading this forum, or if you've gone to RV.net, you will know what I mean. Although there is far less tolerance on RV.net for exceeding any published capacities or ratings then elsewhere.
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
To the O.P. My 2007 DC 4X4 5.7 rates 1,530 lbs. Is it possible that you don't have the tow package? If you don't have the transmission temperature gauge, transmission cooler, and 10.5" rear differential, your truck isn't going to like being loaded to the max as much as if you did have these features. Of course transmission cooler can always be added, and going by my own experience the temp gauge doesn't seem to do much. It's never even budged from the middle of the range.
Anyway, I have towed both big travel trailers and 5th wheels and I'm much happier with a 5th wheel. The down side is loss of bed space in your truck to haul other stuff like bikes or quads or whatever but after you've put 1,000 lbs on your bumper, even with a weight distributing hitch, you don't have a lot of weight capacity left.
Pulling into a filling station with 30 feet of trailer behind you and ensuring that you can gas up and still get out without hitting anything can be dicey, backing up can be iffy in a narrow or curved camping spot, and in both cases I prefer the 5th. But where they shine is driving down the road. You can have 1,500 lbs + directly over your rear axle and as long as tires are good and it's not compressing the suspension too much (this is where air bags are useful) towing is more stable going down the road.
In either event, your original question has a simple answer: according to ratings you should not exceed 7,100 lbs GVWR or 4,150 lbs rear axle, or 4,000 lbs front axle, or 16,000 lbs total for vehicle and trailer, or, 10,300 lbs towed weight (including the weight on the trailer hitch. However in reality many people choose to willfully ignore these published numbers and of course thereby incur some risk that if something breaks it might not be covered by Toyota's warranty.
If you've been reading this forum, or if you've gone to RV.net, you will know what I mean. Although there is far less tolerance on RV.net for exceeding any published capacities or ratings then elsewhere.
I am not sure what additions my truck has that would decrease the capacity to the 1395 lbs……but even when I look the “Model-Code” up in the owners manual it says 1395 lbs, and this is the one with the “*2” next to it reading “with tow package”; which I do have, as it is on the sticker. My model without tow package has an increase of 75 lbs to 1470 lbs.
On the other model codes listed in my owners book, the highest for a 4WD DC 5.7 is 1505 lbs of capacity but on that same model code it shows the “*2” stating “with tow package” only being 1430 lbs; still 35 lbs different than my 1395 lbs. Anybody know what makes this difference? This is the 2009 Owner’s Manual page 595-596.
Thanks for the info…..I have been reading and have searched on the RV forums as well…..they don’t seem to like the Tundra very much.
In 5th wheels, for a floor plan with bunks, I would be looking at probably a minimum of 1200 lbs hitch weight so I would be maxed out. But if I went with a TT, I would have 3 more feet of trailer to maneuver and 900+ lbs on the WDH. I don’t want the tail wagging the dog….decisions, decisions. I have started to look at other TT with dry weights around 7000. Unfortunately there are not many 5th wheels (bunk house models) with low hitch weights.
Anybody towing a 5th wheel without airbags or helper springs?
Anybody towing a 5th wheel without airbags or helper springs?
Just FYI: Air bags are cheap and very easy to install on your own with nothing more exciting than a socket set. And the ride stiffens up slightly when unloaded which to my mind was not a bad thing.
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
With a 5th wheel you should go off your GAWR of 4150 in the rear and try to stay close to that or under. If you look in the camper section of the owner's manual, it gives you this rating of what the axles CAN handle. And IMO, a 5er is much safer to tow and you won't get the tail wagging the dog like you do on a TT. Or should i say...could get the tail wagging on a TT.
With A TT you should go off the GVWR of 7100 lbs.
This is my experience's anyway, and i follow this as close as possible.
My bunkhouse 5er has a dry weight of 6250 lbs with 1250 pin. You can look up my post on fifth wheel actual weights to get my actual weights. But they are 7500 lb trailer weight, and the pin didn't go up when mostly loaded. And i am well within the 4150 axle rating, therefore i have no worries whatsoever.
Tow Capacity: GVWR or GAWR?
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