Hi: I wasn't sure where to post this since it pertains to both towing and the Highlander. I already asked the first question on the HL forum but not here.
1) As somebody who has never towed a trailer before, is there any realistic problem with towing at 90% of tow ratings? I know the Highlander won't speed like a race car and give stellar mpg, but is there a real safety/mechanical issue involved in doing this? I asked on RV.net also, but some of those folks suggest major overkill it seems. The trailer I like will weigh (loaded) 4400 lbs with tongue weight of 460 lbs. The Highlander's max tow rating is 5000 lbs and 500 max tongue weight. I mostly plan to stay locally here in SW Indiana on flat terrain, but don't want to totally rule out a trip to the mountains or beach once every couple years.
2) Anybody know the assumptions behind Toyota tow & tongue ratings -- i.e. are they "best case" on flat terrain w/ no headwind or "worst case" on long windy mountain road? Do they assume a single 150 lb passenger & no cargo in tow vehicle, or that the tow vehicle is loaded up to max (GVWR)?
my experience with the tundra is that they are defiantly "worst case", at least with the tundra. is that 4400 loaded with all your stuff? then go for it. you may want a WDH and a sway bar
__________________
2008 DCLB work truck, diamond plate running boards , Firestone air bags
95 civic HB b18c1 “built” toy
my experience with the tundra is that they are defiantly "worst case", at least with the tundra. is that 4400 loaded with all your stuff? then go for it. you may want a WDH and a sway bar
Yes, 4400-4500lbs loaded with all my stuff (empty holding tanks, but I don't plan to dry camp). Only problem is I heard Toyota doesn't recommend WDH for the Highlander (something to do with excess stress placed due to unibody construction).
So my major concern may end up being tongue weight, which is 450 lbs empty and may approach 480 lbs or so after battery, loading. The max tongue rating is 500 lbs. Is it OK to run this close to the max rating, as long as I don't exceed it? I don't plan to tow alot, maybe just 10-15 days per year, mostly locally on flat terrain.
I think the ratings are "reasonable use" and therefore I wouldn't try to tow through the Rockies at 75 MPH in a 50MPH crosswind with a fully loaded trailer behind me, and think "well they probably engineered some safety margin into this, I'll be fine". But I can and do tow with my Tundra above all it's ratings and now at two years ownership and about 45,000 miles, I've perceived this to be a very well engineered vehicle and capable of towing at it's rated capacity (or above) provided you take appropriate precautions.
Make sure you have the tow package, which should include a transmission cooler (maybe power steering cooler as well, it did on our Acura MDX. I'd also tow with a weight distribution hitch if the Highlander allows it (the MDX specifically states NOT to) and I'd remember that the maximum tow and hitch weight recommended usually includes the driver and nothing else in the tow vehicle. Tires are often a weak point on a tow vehicle, and getting a heavier rated tire for long trips makes good sense. Having some room for margin for error is very sensible.
Now although you may exceed your "ratings", you should expect that vehicle to tow it well, provided you remember that you've got a trailer behind you that weighs almost as much as the tow vehicle, and don't speed, don't forget to leave distance for braking, and avoid sudden lane changes and other behavior that you can easily get away with when you don't have a trailer hooked up behind you. On RV.net you'll get some grief if you suggest even approaching your rating, often the recommendation is never exceed 80% of the rated payload or combined gross vehicle weight rating. To each his (or her) own. Good luck.
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
Ha I see you've looked into WDH already. Well, for one thing, I'd try a "test tow" and see how it drives all loaded up. If your steering feels "iffy" or the truck looks really low in back and high in front, you have your answer right there. Having 500 lbs + hanging off the a$$ end of a light tow vehicle can make for interesting steering feel going down the road.
Remember, even if you can't use a WDH you can still use a friction anti-sway bar, and that can help a lot.
Happy camping!
__________________ [Tundra Bay]
Proud Member CBTMA
Radiant Red 2007 Double Cab Limited w/Graphite Leather Interior
Factory Nav, Sonar, and 10 spkr 440W JBL stereo with Sirius (sweet) Cold Weather Pkg and Block Heater. Brushed SS Stepboards,
Tires: BFG All Terrain T/A KO LT265 65 R 18, Diamondback Tonneau Cover.
Curt Front Receiver, custom 8" extension, & Warn 8000lb winch back/front mountable,
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller DSP 16,000 lb 5th wheel hitch Firestone Ride Rite 2445 Air Bags
Another thing to be aware of is this weight you are giving.
It sounds like you have not bought a trailer yet?
If not be aware that the stated weights from the manufacturer are like some kind of fantasy weight and rarely reflect the actual weight of the rig.
They are always low.
You would really be smart to get the weight independently somehow to know for sure and this could effect your plans.....I would hope.
i think a lot of people on rv.net or whatever are delusional about the ratings they give on 1 tons. they will tell you to use a 1 ton to tow trailers, a 2009 f350 can really only tow 15000 according to the wight police. most higher end 5ers are over that loaded. how often do you see people come on and harp on the ones towing with 1 tons that should really be class 5-7 trucks. / end rant
GWB you should take the advice of most of the people here, TundraBay and cwit gave good advice. what are the specks on the trailer, how long is it? long trailer + short tow V = not fun ride. you stated that you have never towed a trailer before, my advice is to try before you buy. towing might not be for you. RV dealers are hard up, you can get amazing deals if you shop around, and really good service. Ask the dealer if you can hitch up the trailer and see how it will sit on the suv. if you plan to camp in campgrounds then you can be dry. you will most likely end up with more gear than you think.
__________________
2008 DCLB work truck, diamond plate running boards , Firestone air bags
95 civic HB b18c1 “built” toy
You're within the range you should be fine, pay attention to how you load the trailer that will help in keeping the tongue weight under control. The rest is common sense stuff.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
JBA Headers
Gone but not forgotten~