Larry, just a comment to clarify terminology:
Trucks and hitches are rated for weight-carrying hitches and weight-distibuting hitches. I think the w/d hitch is what you mean by 3-point. The Tundra is rated at 5000# weight-carrying and 7100# weight-distriubuting, but you probably can't tow this much without exceeding the GCWR, anyway, and can't safely control a travel trailer anywhere near this weight due to the side-windage.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I think 5500 lbs should be a piece of cake for the Tundra. Many people take the towed weight, add a safety factor of two, reduce for wind loads and hills, and reduce the towing limit to almost nothing. Do they really think that Toyota is so dumb as to give us the actual towing capacity "limit?" Of course, not. I'm sure the 7200 lb tow limit already has a safety factor built into it - especially in this day of easy litigation. Otherwise, they wouldn't put it in print in the owners manual! It is important that you have the tongue weight distributed properly on the vehicle and that the cargo is distributed properly in the trailer. That just plays into the dynamics of the trailer and tow vehicle going down the road. There are a couple of articles on the internet that discuss this. Also, a good sway bar can always help - especially with a long trailer. Before I got the Tundra, I towed a 3400 lb trailer with a 3500 lb limited van. Everyone thought I was crazy. It towed fine because I had the hitch and trailer loading set-up properly. I had that set-up for about 3 years with no problems! Of course, with the Tundra, I don't even slow down on the hills now!
I think that your 30' and ~5000# trailer is about max for any 1/2-ton pickup, including our Tundras. The problem isn't pulling it; the concern is controlling it. By the way, I prefer towing with overdrive off. I feel that the easier load on the engine and input end of the tranmission is wise. When a gust of wind hits the side of that 30' trailer and it starts to sway, you'll understand. Correct setup is critical. Do air up both the truck and the trailer tires to the max shown on the sidewall for added stability. Here are some good links for setup:
Towing and keeping your truck on the road is not supposed to be a white knuckle (or brown shorts) event. Adding a friction sway damper to your existing hitch will be some help, but they really aren't very effective. The friction damper is called a sway bar by trailer folks, but it's nothing like the anti-sway bar on our truck's suspension. More effective than the friction damper is the "Equal-i-zer" brand hitch. You don't have enough tongue weight for the dual-cam hitch. Most effective at controlling sway is the Hensley Arrow hitch. They cost a LOT, but if you find a good used one, don't let it get away.[
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
How much can I pull with my Tundra. I am looking at buying a 28' travel trailer, with a weight of 6980lbs and a hitch weight of 910lbs. Toyota claims 7200 and 780 hitch. What is the biggest anyone a pulled? Thanks for the help
Kipp
The thread "Towing Travel Trailers" merged with the thread " Fifth Wheel Towing & Hitch Questions/Help/Info" as they are the same subject. ~MustangSally
I wouldn't pull that much with my Tundra, its to close to the upper limit. Once you add gear and supplies, you're over the top. You also have to take Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) into consideration.
Well, to start with, _I_ wouldn't pull this much. My worry, as the other poster says, is putting all your vacation stuff in the truck/trailer could add quite a bit of weight. But I race cars. And a LOT of people have pulled cars heavier than the spec on the truck, many for years (none on the Tundra that I know of). Many of these are folks pulling full sized cars with V6's. So there is some wiggle room. But going over the wiggle could end up being quite bad. . . I certainly wouldn't try it without electronic brakes and a class. . .4? hitch (which hitch is what comes from Toyota on the Tundra). I have pulled my car (3,000 pounds) and trailer (1,000 pounds), without brakes. I could tell it was back there, but it pulled and stopped easily, even in the hills.
Man I've peaked at 5000 with 600 tounge weight. I would pull that travel trailer once but that would be to my house from where I bought it to hook it up to a 3/4 ton truck. I think you will be biting off more than the Tundra can chew.
I have a 24' travel trailer (~5600 lbs.) that I've been towing with my 2000 Tundra for almost 3 years now. I've put around 20,000 miles on the truck with the trailer behind it, including a trip in '99 to Alaska. My gas mileage @ 65 mph with V-8 averages around 9 mpg. I did put air springs on the back which made the truck ride much better when I have the trailer hitched up. I think that the 7200 lb. limit is on the mark. While I have plenty of power for my trailer, I don't think I'd want to tow anything much bigger.
That's way too much for any 1/2 ton, you're looking at 8000# or more loaded. It will pull it, but safety is a big concern. I have been looking at trailers also, and there are many in the 25-28' range that have rear or side slides that are 3995-4500lbs. I would suggest looking at a different trailer if you plan on keeping your truck.
The Tundra can do it (I tow a 27' trailer around--only a few yards in and out of storage) but safety is a huge concern on the road. Whenever the thing you're towing weighs that much more than the truck, "the tail could end up wagging the dog". That's scary. If I were you, I'd definitely consider a smaller, lighter trailer. Mallards are nice and not too heavy. Just my $.02
KCJ, I have to agree with what everyone has said, especially Browntrout. I became very involved with this same issue just a few months ago when I wanted to buy a travel trailer. I put a Draw-Tite Class III on my truck with an Envoy brake controller. Looks great and works even better! I wanted the room of a big trailer, but wanted to keep my truck also. So, after looking around at big broad-sided trailers, Hi-Lo's, etc, I decided on a Coleman tent-top. Dry, it is roughly 3500#, with a tongue weight of about 300#. If you are looking at a 28' trailer, mine is actually the same size once you pull out both king-size beds! Camped in the rain, snow, desert...you name it! Plus, the smaller size of the trailer enables my to get back in places where the big boys can't find me. I can load up the inside of the trailer with pretty much everything my family needs, plus I have plenty of room in the truck bed to throw all the bikes, firewood, etc, without having to worry about total gross vehicle weight.
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KJC, Two big problems with your proposal. 1--You will be over the Gross Combined Weight Rating of 11,800#. The GCWR is the combination of loaded truck, passengers, baggage, full fuel, dogs, car-top stuff, hitch, plus your fully loaded trailer. You'll be way over. 2--No 1/2-ton truck can consistently safely control a 28' travel trailer. It's different from a car hauler or other utility trailer. When a gusting side wind hits that trailer, it'll go sideways and you will be very lucky to keep that truck on the road. The so-called tow rating for most trucks is fiction. For a travel trailer, the GCWR is usually reached first. For a 5th wheel trailer, the rear axle max is the first limit usually reached. If you do tow the maximum, I strongly recommend a Hensley Arrow hitch and either a Jordan 2020 brake controller or a Tekonsha Prodigy controller. These will make your trip safer and more controllable and comfortable. None of the above will make an unsafe rig safe. http://www.hensleymfg.com/whatisthearrow.htmlhttp://www.hensleymfg.com/whatisthearrow.html http://www.jordanbrake.com/id20.htm http://www.jordanbrake.com/id20.htm
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I have a 2000 Tundra 4x4 and tow a 2001 Terry Lite 25 foot trailer. My trailer has a slideout and I am totally self contained. The trailer weighs just at 5000 lbs. It tows great. I have more than enough power and the brakes, combined with the trailer brakes are fine. I did add a rear anti-sway bar after seeing some posts here. I have plenty of room, plenty of power and the rig is small enough to get into some really interesting campsites. Enjoy-but be careful.
bearsfolks, I think you have just about the maximum trailer any 1/2-ton pickup can safely control. You were smart to get a trailer that length and weight. When you say that you added an anti-sway bar, do you mean the truck's Hellwig rear anti-sway bar or the friction sway damper on your trailer hitch? Folks use the name interchangeably for two completely different gizmos.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I pull a 32 ft 5400 pound travel trailer. I have a load equalizing hitch and sway control. I have pulled it from Indiana to Wyoming and to Florida. We have also spent alot of time in KY, TENN and southern OH. It pulls fine. Plenty of power. I get approx 10 mpg at 55-65 and 8 mpg at 65-75. The problem is the wind and semi trailers. On a recent 200 mile trip we left on a Friday night. There was very heavy traffic. All the semi trucks were driving very fast (trying to get home I suppose) we were constantly being sucked over by what I will call a vacuum effect as the trucks passed us. On the trip home on Sunday afternoon we encountered no problems whatsover, light traffic, very few semis, the vacuum effect seems to occur when the semi is going about 15 miles an hour faster than me. Ive noticed if I speed up when I see them approaching from behind I can eliminate the problem. This is not always possible or practical. Now we get to the weight thing. My 4x2 is supposed to way under 4300 according to the brochure. I took it to the scales. With a full tank of gas, empty bed, 2 adults and 2 small kids and a few accesorries it weighs 5100. The gross combined vehicle weight rating for truck and trailer is 11800. That means I can have 6700 pounds total for trailer and contents. I figure Im probably at my limit now. I weighed the whole rig on one trip when I was very heavily loaded and it was 12400. I encountered no problems but I wouldnt what to risk doing it on a regular basis.