Towing a trailer with aftermarket Rims 20 Inch

[fastone01]

I am getting a trailer soon. I have search on the site and have not found still what I am looking for. I would like advise/opinions on how my ride will handle with this setup

Truck

2K V8 SR5 Access cab tundra 2 wheel Drive with a Leer Top

Estimated weight of the truck with me and wife with full tank of gas is about
4600 Lbs

Truck Mods
- SS Autochrome Heades
-Trd Limited Slip
-Trd airfilter
-20 X9X295X40 Moda R7 rims and tires

Trailer
2005 Trailbay
27 ft Long. 29.5 ft from bumper to tongue.
10.4 feet high
5333 LBS Dry
7681 LBS Max GVWR with full water/sewage/etc.

Trailer also will have the following

Brake control
Sway control
Equalization control

Brand to be determine.

I would like to know the following

- Will the truck be able to control this trailer. (Tow it within safety Limits)?
- With my 20 inch rims/tires, will it be able to handle better/worse. ( I still have the stock 265/16 inch rims)? This one,I have not found on any tread.

-Has anyone have close or same wieght/tire setup? I need input/expierences.

Any input, experience, and advise will be greatly appreciated.

[MapleMotors]

I have the enkei 20 inch wheels with goodyear eagle gt II 285/50/20. I tow a 18' steel car hauler with cargo ranging from a honda civic hatchback to a 4wd tahoe (5000~7500lbs). I have found the wheels to be a handling asset when towing, but depending on the weight of the wheel you buy, the additional weight does take away power. I have no problems whatsoever with this setup, and I wouldnt be afraid to tow across the country. I do, however, pump the tires up to the manufactures specs (36psi) if I am going to go very far.
As far as the weight you will be towing, It is a lot for the 4.7 but I wouldn't be afraid of damaging anything. I always shift gears manually when I am taking off so I can control how long the truck stays in its 'power band'.
I have a friend that has a 87 mazda B- series pickup, 4cyl 2wd 5spd, and he towed a 3/4 ton cheverolet truck on a tow dolly, 400 miles. The Mazda had over 200k miles at the time, and was still on the original clutch. So yes, It can be done

[fcatwo]

We towed a similar size 5th wheel with a 3/4 350 Chevy for 10 yrs and felt it was a fairly good match. Your Tundra has more power than our 92 Chevy had but it is not as much truck. I think if you'll crawl under your Tundra for a look and then compare it to any 3/4 you'll see what I mean. The relatively short wheelbase is also a problem. It's been mentioned here and elsewhere that the Tundra shares much of it's running gear with the Tacoma and that's not good from a heavy hauling standpoint.

I'm not a wheel guy but I suspect that if the overall diameter of the 20" wheel/tire is the same as stock you may be OK there- assuming the weight rating is the same. The stiffer sidewall should be good.

I wouldn't tow that trailer with your truck but I've spent enough time towing and had enough close calls that I've become a little bit chicken. Also, you probably know that some states will charge you with a criminal offense if you cause a serious accident while towing overloaded. It'll be hard to keep that combo under GCWR.

[fastone01]

" have a friend that has a 87 mazda B- series pickup, 4cyl 2wd 5spd, and he towed a 3/4 ton cheverolet truck on a tow dolly, 400 miles"

THat must be a sight to see! Thank you for your input! I guess I don't have to swap tires/rims when towing the new trailer.

Originally Posted by MapleMotors

I have the enkei 20 inch wheels with goodyear eagle gt II 285/50/20. I tow a 18' steel car hauler with cargo ranging from a honda civic hatchback to a 4wd tahoe (5000~7500lbs). I have found the wheels to be a handling asset when towing, but depending on the weight of the wheel you buy, the additional weight does take away power. I have no problems whatsoever with this setup, and I wouldnt be afraid to tow across the country. I do, however, pump the tires up to the manufactures specs (36psi) if I am going to go very far.
As far as the weight you will be towing, It is a lot for the 4.7 but I wouldn't be afraid of damaging anything. I always shift gears manually when I am taking off so I can control how long the truck stays in its 'power band'.
I have a friend that has a 87 mazda B- series pickup, 4cyl 2wd 5spd, and he towed a 3/4 ton cheverolet truck on a tow dolly, 400 miles. The Mazda had over 200k miles at the time, and was still on the original clutch. So yes, It can be done

[fastone01]

Well,

I have check with all the dealers of the different trailers (Trailerlight, thor, prowler) and suggested that I should be fine with the dry numbers posted on this specific trailer model. I do not plan towing with the max GVWR weight all the time when camping except when we do not have water/sewer hookup, which is probably once in a year? And as you said, Safety is my priority here. Plus, I do not want to part with my tundra and the boss (wife) is set on this specific trailer.

So, is this combo a safe and durable combo still?

Thanks

Originally Posted by fcatwo

We towed a similar size 5th wheel with a 3/4 350 Chevy for 10 yrs and felt it was a fairly good match. Your Tundra has more power than our 92 Chevy had but it is not as much truck. I think if you'll crawl under your Tundra for a look and then compare it to any 3/4 you'll see what I mean. The relatively short wheelbase is also a problem. It's been mentioned here and elsewhere that the Tundra shares much of it's running gear with the Tacoma and that's not good from a heavy hauling standpoint.

I'm not a wheel guy but I suspect that if the overall diameter of the 20" wheel/tire is the same as stock you may be OK there- assuming the weight rating is the same. The stiffer sidewall should be good.

I wouldn't tow that trailer with your truck but I've spent enough time towing and had enough close calls that I've become a little bit chicken. Also, you probably know that some states will charge you with a criminal offense if you cause a serious accident while towing overloaded. It'll be hard to keep that combo under GCWR.

[TwinStop]

Do a search, there was a thread that had a formula to determine the length of a trailer that can safely be towed, if I remember it was 24.5 ft for an access cab tundra.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by TwinStop

Do a search, there was a thread that had a formula to determine the length of a trailer that can safely be towed, if I remember it was 24.5 ft for an access cab tundra.

The generally accepted rule about maximum travel trailer length for a given tow vehicle wheelbase was derived from an extensive empirical analysis of travel trailer accident statistics. It's not a theoretical rule, IOW, but one that's based on real world accident statistics. That rule is this: Starting with a baseline of 110 inches of tow vehicle wheelbase, you should have an additional 4 inches of wheelbase for every foot of trailer length over 20 feet.

An Access Cab Tundra has a 128 inch wheelbase. That computes to a maximum safe trailer length of 24.5 feet. Can you get away with towing a 27 or 29 foot trailer? Sure...but the likelihood is much, much higher that sooner or later some combination of conditions (sidewinds, bow waves off semis, road irregularties, etc.) will produce uncontrollable sway that will inevitably result in an accident, typically a jacknife of truck/trailer followed by a rollover of both. Towing a trailer longer than the empirical rule greatly stacks the odds in favor of a catastrophic accident.

Beyond that, there is the weight issue. A Tundra has a maximum Gross Combined Weight Rating of only 11,800 lbs. Subtracting a realistic weight of 5000 lbs for a loaded-for-camping truck leaves 6800 lbs for the loaded trailer. With a dry weight of 5300, that means that 1500 lbs of manufacturer accessories/options and personal food/gear/water/clothing could be loaded before the GCWR is exceeded...and that's actually a pretty reasonable range. Furthermore, it's very unlikely you'll have a combination of full fresh water and full grey/black water tanks...normally fresh is full & grey/black are empty (at the beginning of the trip) or fresh is empty & grey/black are full (at the end of the trip). And if you are a bit (a hundred or two lbs) over the GCWR for a short distance to a dump station at the end of the trip, probably no harm as long as speeds are kept down and off-road towing is not part of the plan.

All in all, I'd assess the weight situation to be tolerable but the length issue could be potentially very dangerous. One way to minimize the dangers from the long trailer length is to spend the big bucks to get a Hensley Hitch...they're about $2500 new but if anything would make towing a 29 ft trailer safe, it would be a Hensley "No Sway" Hitch.

As for the 20 inch rims...as long as the load capacity of the tires is at least as good as the stock tires...and the rims are rated for at least that load (some aftermarket rims aren't...especially the large diameter ones), then the shorter sidewall is somewhat of an advantage in that there's more resistance to trailer induced side-side swing of the rear of the truck.

[fastone01]

Okay, We decided to go with the 2005TrailBay 27DS. I know I am over the lenght rule of thumb of 24.5 feet. This trailer mesurement is 27feet. 29.5 from trailers bumper to hitch length. Question

- What do you suggest (manufacturers brand) I should have the dealer get for the following equipment within reasonable price?

Brake controller
sway controller
Load Equalization Control

This got thrown in on the deal! I will be picking it up this week.
Thanks,

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

The generally accepted rule about maximum travel trailer length for a given tow vehicle wheelbase was derived from an extensive empirical analysis of travel trailer accident statistics. It's not a theoretical rule, IOW, but one that's based on real world accident statistics. That rule is this: Starting with a baseline of 110 inches of tow vehicle wheelbase, you should have an additional 4 inches of wheelbase for every foot of trailer length over 20 feet.

An Access Cab Tundra has a 128 inch wheelbase. That computes to a maximum safe trailer length of 24.5 feet. Can you get away with towing a 27 or 29 foot trailer? Sure...but the likelihood is much, much higher that sooner or later some combination of conditions (sidewinds, bow waves off semis, road irregularties, etc.) will produce uncontrollable sway that will inevitably result in an accident, typically a jacknife of truck/trailer followed by a rollover of both. Towing a trailer longer than the empirical rule greatly stacks the odds in favor of a catastrophic accident.

Beyond that, there is the weight issue. A Tundra has a maximum Gross Combined Weight Rating of only 11,800 lbs. Subtracting a realistic weight of 5000 lbs for a loaded-for-camping truck leaves 6800 lbs for the loaded trailer. With a dry weight of 5300, that means that 1500 lbs of manufacturer accessories/options and personal food/gear/water/clothing could be loaded before the GCWR is exceeded...and that's actually a pretty reasonable range. Furthermore, it's very unlikely you'll have a combination of full fresh water and full grey/black water tanks...normally fresh is full & grey/black are empty (at the beginning of the trip) or fresh is empty & grey/black are full (at the end of the trip). And if you are a bit (a hundred or two lbs) over the GCWR for a short distance to a dump station at the end of the trip, probably no harm as long as speeds are kept down and off-road towing is not part of the plan.

All in all, I'd assess the weight situation to be tolerable but the length issue could be potentially very dangerous. One way to minimize the dangers from the long trailer length is to spend the big bucks to get a Hensley Hitch...they're about $2500 new but if anything would make towing a 29 ft trailer safe, it would be a Hensley "No Sway" Hitch.

As for the 20 inch rims...as long as the load capacity of the tires is at least as good as the stock tires...and the rims are rated for at least that load (some aftermarket rims aren't...especially the large diameter ones), then the shorter sidewall is somewhat of an advantage in that there's more resistance to trailer induced side-side swing of the rear of the truck.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by fastone01

Okay, We decided to go with the 2005TrailBay 27DS. I know I am over the lenght rule of thumb of 24.5 feet. This trailer mesurement is 27feet. 29.5 from trailers bumper to hitch length. Question

- What do you suggest (manufacturers brand) I should have the dealer get for the following equipment within reasonable price?

Brake controller

Tekonsha Prodigy or Jordan Ultima. The Prodigy has dual solid state accelerometers which insures you always get trailer braking that's proportional to truck braking regardless of the road grade (very important to we Westerners who tow in the mountains). Less expensive inertia controllers use pendulums which aren't good on mountain roads. Under no circumstances accept a low cost "time-delay" controller...these provide trailer braking that's proportional to how long not how hard you have the truck brake pedal depressed...IOW no braking at all at the beginning of an emergency stop; maximum trailer braking after half a minute of very easy brake application to gradually slow in traffic.

The Jordan controller has a mechanical cable that connects to the brake pedal so that it also provides trailer braking that's very proportional to the amount of brake pedal movement.

On a package deal the RV dealer will try to get you to take a time delay or pendulum based inertia controller...absolutely demand a Prodigy or Jordan.

sway controller
Load Equalization Control

Load equalization control is usually referrred to as a Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH). Sway control devices are add-on accessories to WDHs and you must use one made by the WDH manufacturer. If you won't get the recommended Hensley Hitch (which won't be part of a RV "throw in"), then at least demand to get a cam type sway control instead of a friction type. The major advantage of the cam type is it provides a centering force that not only resists sway but also tries to return the trailer to alignnment behind the truck. The problem with the friction type is that while it provides a drag when the trailer wants to pivot out of alignment (which is good), it provides just as much drag against getting the trailer back into alignment (which is very bad). Plus friction types lose effectiveness when they get wet, when they get hot, and tend to bind up when you're trying to make a sharp turn (like into a campground site).

Reese and Equil-i-zer are two good brands of WDHs and both have cam type anti sway control add-ons. Be sure to specify that you want 1000 lb spring bars for the WDH...you'll need that much to handle a 7000 lb trailer.

With a 27 (realistically 29) foot trailer behind a 128 inch wheelbase truck, you're going to need the best anti-sway you can get and you may still encounter sway often enough and strong enough to sooner or later (probably sooner) convince yourself you need to spend those big bucks for the Hensley Hitch.

[fastone01]

All,

Lots of informative and very good advice in this post. I appreciate all replies.
I will try to wheel and deal with the dealer to get me the recommended equipment here to tow this rig. Thank you all. I will kept you posted on the results.

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

Tekonsha Prodigy or Jordan Ultima. The Prodigy has dual solid state accelerometers which insures you always get trailer braking that's proportional to truck braking regardless of the road grade (very important to we Westerners who tow in the mountains). Less expensive inertia controllers use pendulums which aren't good on mountain roads. Under no circumstances accept a low cost "time-delay" controller...these provide trailer braking that's proportional to how long not how hard you have the truck brake pedal depressed...IOW no braking at all at the beginning of an emergency stop; maximum trailer braking after half a minute of very easy brake application to gradually slow in traffic.

The Jordan controller has a mechanical cable that connects to the brake pedal so that it also provides trailer braking that's very proportional to the amount of brake pedal movement.

On a package deal the RV dealer will try to get you to take a time delay or pendulum based inertia controller...absolutely demand a Prodigy or Jordan.


Load equalization control is usually referrred to as a Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH). Sway control devices are add-on accessories to WDHs and you must use one made by the WDH manufacturer. If you won't get the recommended Hensley Hitch (which won't be part of a RV "throw in"), then at least demand to get a cam type sway control instead of a friction type. The major advantage of the cam type is it provides a centering force that not only resists sway but also tries to return the trailer to alignnment behind the truck. The problem with the friction type is that while it provides a drag when the trailer wants to pivot out of alignment (which is good), it provides just as much drag against getting the trailer back into alignment (which is very bad). Plus friction types lose effectiveness when they get wet, when they get hot, and tend to bind up when you're trying to make a sharp turn (like into a campground site).

Reese and Equil-i-zer are two good brands of WDHs and both have cam type anti sway control add-ons. Be sure to specify that you want 1000 lb spring bars for the WDH...you'll need that much to handle a 7000 lb trailer.

With a 27 (realistically 29) foot trailer behind a 128 inch wheelbase truck, you're going to need the best anti-sway you can get and you may still encounter sway often enough and strong enough to sooner or later (probably sooner) convince yourself you need to spend those big bucks for the Hensley Hitch.

[fcatwo]

Sorry I didn't answer your question promptly but I've been off the net for a couple of days. One bit of information (and by far the most important) that I didn't know when I wrote my earlier response was that your WIFE wanted the trailer you described. Had I known that I would have dealt only with how to tow it safely.

RMR is by far the most knowledgeable person I've found on the internet (who is willing to spend time answering our questions) and I won't disagree with his assessment of your situation. He deserves an internet public service award if there is one. One thing I might add however is that the Tundra's rear axle-to-hitch distance is greater than many trucks and that makes Ray's advice on hitches even more important-- so get a good hitch, weigh your combo to make sure you are within GCWR and the weight is properly distributed and enjoy your new RV.

And for actual towing advice: double the distance you normally stay behind the vehicle in front of you, watch those people coming out of side roads because they often underestimate a large rig's speed, lock out O/D and don't look at the pump or ticket when you fuel up.

[fastone01]

No need to apologize. I have been dealing with the dealer all morning about the recommended equipment here, thanks to RMR! Here is the low down.

Brake controller - they where going to give me the Tekonsha Prodigy originally. So I'm happy about that.

WDH - they where going to give me the Reese DrawTite. 750 to 1000 lbs originally. So I am also happy with this.

Sway controller - Reese Drawtite friction type on side. Not happy.

They told me that they can also put another set on the other side. So I told them to either get me a Reese dual Cam or find out if you can get the Hensley. RV Dealer called back an told me that they can only get the Reese Dual Cam. they are not an authorize dealer or do not know where to get the Hensley.

So, Question, besides calling the MFg, where else can I point them to the correct dealer to get the hensley? I am try to include this on the financing.

One more thing, I called the manufacturer and they quoted $2995.00
Where can I get it for $2500! Let me know.

Last but not least, after talking to Terry who is the hensley rep, if I use the hensley no sway, I pretty much do not need the WDH. The hensley I guess is both a sway and WDH? I will be getting the video from them soon, but can this forum enlighten me alittle bit?

Thanks

Originally Posted by fcatwo

Sorry I didn't answer your question promptly but I've been off the net for a couple of days. One bit of information (and by far the most important) that I didn't know when I wrote my earlier response was that your WIFE wanted the trailer you described. Had I known that I would have dealt only with how to tow it safely.

RMR is by far the most knowledgeable person I've found on the internet (who is willing to spend time answering our questions) and I won't disagree with his assessment of your situation. He deserves an internet public service award if there is one. One thing I might add however is that the Tundra's rear axle-to-hitch distance is greater than many trucks and that makes Ray's advice on hitches even more important-- so get a good hitch, weigh your combo to make sure you are within GCWR and the weight is properly distributed and enjoy your new RV.

And for actual towing advice: double the distance you normally stay behind the vehicle in front of you, watch those people coming out of side roads because they often underestimate a large rig's speed, lock out O/D and don't look at the pump or ticket when you fuel up.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by fastone01

No need to apologize. I have been dealing with the dealer all morning about the recommended equipment here, thanks to RMR! Here is the low down.

Brake controller - they where going to give me the Tekonsha Prodigy originally. So I'm happy about that.

That alone tells me you're dealing with a reputable dealership.

WDH - they where going to give me the Reese DrawTite. 750 to 1000 lbs originally. So I am also happy with this.

Get the 1000 lb bars; 750 won't be enough.

Sway controller - Reese Drawtite friction type on side. Not happy.

They told me that they can also put another set on the other side. So I told them to either get me a Reese dual Cam or find out if you can get the Hensley. RV Dealer called back an told me that they can only get the Reese Dual Cam. they are not an authorize dealer or do not know where to get the Hensley.

So, Question, besides calling the MFg, where else can I point them to the correct dealer to get the hensley? I am try to include this on the financing.

Hensley Hitches are sold direct...not through dealers so not surprised that your RV dealer can't get the Hensley for you.

One more thing, I called the manufacturer and they quoted $2995.00
Where can I get it for $2500! Let me know.

Last but not least, after talking to Terry who is the hensley rep, if I use the hensley no sway, I pretty much do not need the WDH. The hensley I guess is both a sway and WDH? I will be getting the video from them soon, but can this forum enlighten me alittle bit?

Thanks

The Hensley rep is correct...a Hensley hitch is a WDH/sway elimination device all in one. It's a pretty complicated design... drawing ... that uses a patented overcenter mechanism that prevents the trailer from turning the tow vehicle yet allows the tow vehicle to turn the trailer and it does incorporate WDH spring bars to handle tongue weight distribution.

Yes, it appears the price is now $2945 (that's what's quoted on the Hensley web site including shipping) ...I apologize for my out of date price information. Sometimes you can find a used one for a lot less...I just checked ebay and there's exactly one used Hensley currently listed for $1700.

Since it sounds like (1) your dealer is willing to include a quality WDH and will upgrade their offering to a dual cam sway control and (2) the Hensley is now almost $3000, one approach might be to get take the Reese hitch with dual cam sway being offered by the dealer and just see how it goes (being very careful to tow slowly at first). It may not be an optimum combination for your relatively short wheelbased Tundra but it won't be real bad combination either. To a degree you can minimize trailer sway by how you load the trailer...i.e. try to ensure it's center of mass is well ahead of its wheels (the worst sway is when the center of mass is aft of the wheels). The problem with forward loading is that really ups the tongue weight and provides yet another reason why you want the 1000 lb WDH spring bars. And you have a better chance of fighting sway if your truck's front tires are firmly planted and not being lifted...yet another reason why WDH is supremely important. Anf finally, sway, if its going to happen, worsens with increased speed.

And then if you find the Reese WDH with cam type sway control just isn't going to keep sway well controlled, you always have the option of spending the big bucks for the Hensley.

Or you could just get a credit for the Reese Hitch on your trailer's price and then go order the Hensley from the get-go. I should note that TS Member 'KLS', a frequent contributor on towing threads and who has even more expertise in the realm of towing than I do, uses a Hensley Hitch even with his relatively short (around 21 feet) Bigfoot travel trailer.

I well recognize that $3000 is a very large amount of cash for just the hitch. OTOH, the trailer you're buying is exceedingly long for your truck's wheelbase. Gonna be a tough decision.

[fastone01]

RAY.

Due to your comments and input on this tread, I opt for the Hensley. Here is what happen.

Terry, the hensley rep called my trailer dealer and made them an authorized dealer for Hensley. Thought that was cool. With all the info and grief I gave my dealer about the hitch setup, they where very happy to be a dealer for hensley so in the future, they can recommend this to other tundra owners.

With that said, here is what they did for me, the total price my of the hensley, minus the original sway control price, minus the original WDH price, total came out to $2499.00 for the hensley. Free shipping.
I still get the prodigy brake control.

I just paid for the hensley kit with a CC with alot of moning and groning!

But seriously looking at the issue, safety is priority.
Thank you all for your persuasion. Now I can sleep better, after I get over the shock of paying for the hensley sway kit!

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

That alone tells me you're dealing with a reputable dealership.

Get the 1000 lb bars; 750 won't be enough.

Hensley Hitches are sold direct...not through dealers so not surprised that your RV dealer can't get the Hensley for you.

The Hensley rep is correct...a Hensley hitch is a WDH/sway elimination device all in one. It's a pretty complicated design... drawing ... that uses a patented overcenter mechanism that prevents the trailer from turning the tow vehicle yet allows the tow vehicle to turn the trailer and it does incorporate WDH spring bars to handle tongue weight distribution.

Yes, it appears the price is now $2945 (that's what's quoted on the Hensley web site including shipping) ...I apologize for my out of date price information. Sometimes you can find a used one for a lot less...I just checked ebay and there's exactly one used Hensley currently listed for $1700.

Since it sounds like (1) your dealer is willing to include a quality WDH and will upgrade their offering to a dual cam sway control and (2) the Hensley is now almost $3000, one approach might be to get take the Reese hitch with dual cam sway being offered by the dealer and just see how it goes (being very careful to tow slowly at first). It may not be an optimum combination for your relatively short wheelbased Tundra but it won't be real bad combination either. To a degree you can minimize trailer sway by how you load the trailer...i.e. try to ensure it's center of mass is well ahead of its wheels (the worst sway is when the center of mass is aft of the wheels). The problem with forward loading is that really ups the tongue weight and provides yet another reason why you want the 1000 lb WDH spring bars. And you have a better chance of fighting sway if your truck's front tires are firmly planted and not being lifted...yet another reason why WDH is supremely important. Anf finally, sway, if its going to happen, worsens with increased speed.

And then if you find the Reese WDH with cam type sway control just isn't going to keep sway well controlled, you always have the option of spending the big bucks for the Hensley.

Or you could just get a credit for the Reese Hitch on your trailer's price and then go order the Hensley from the get-go. I should note that TS Member 'KLS', a frequent contributor on towing threads and who has even more expertise in the realm of towing than I do, uses a Hensley Hitch even with his relatively short (around 21 feet) Bigfoot travel trailer.

I well recognize that $3000 is a very large amount of cash for just the hitch. OTOH, the trailer you're buying is exceedingly long for your truck's wheelbase. Gonna be a tough decision.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by fastone01

RAY.

Due to your comments and input on this tread, I opt for the Hensley. Here is what happen.

Terry, the hensley rep called my trailer dealer and made them an authorized dealer for Hensley. Thought that was cool. With all the info and grief I gave my dealer about the hitch setup, they where very happy to be a dealer for hensley so in the future, they can recommend this to other tundra owners.

With that said, here is what they did for me, the total price my of the hensley, minus the original sway control price, minus the original WDH price, total came out to $2499.00 for the hensley. Free shipping.
I still get the prodigy brake control.

I just paid for the hensley kit with a CC with alot of moning and groning!

But seriously looking at the issue, safety is priority.
Thank you all for your persuasion. Now I can sleep better, after I get over the shock of paying for the hensley sway kit!

Wow. That turned out pretty darn well (other than for the hit to your budget ). But I know you will not only sleep a lot better but will also feel a lot more confident when you're happily rolling along and pass or meet a semi in a cross wind. Safety is indeed a priority.

And it kinda sounds like your dealer got a bit smarter through the process and that bodes well for other folks as well.

Glad to have been of help here.

After you get the trailer and have some towing experience with the Hensley, please post your impressions. We have so few people who are willing to make the investment that it would be very good to hear from those who have done so.

P.S. Take a look at my mods list if you want some ideas for how to spend more cash improving your truck's towing performance, particularly in the mountains.