Confused!!! towing wiring for '02 tundra

[innergee]

I have no tow package
I 'm pretty sure I have no wiring for trailers
I want to do it myself (save money) if possible
I'm an electrician
I'm confused about what I need to get
Is there a kit I can buy to "tap into" the exisitng vehicle wiring
HELP
I have looked around a bit but still can't seem to find what I need
thanks

[keninsb]

There is a kit you can buy. I bought mine on ebay for about $20, but you can get them at trailer supply stores, and maybe even Pep Boys, Kragen or Auto Zone. Install is super easy. There are plugs up near the spare tire mount that have a cap on them. You just take the cap off and install the new kit. Very straightforward. If I remember correctly, there is also a wire to run to the battery +. That is the hardest part.
Picasso posted some great pics in this thread:
WARNING!! U-Haul trailer wiring install nightmare!

Here is a kit on ebay, but I thought you might be able to find them cheaper:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

Hope this helps.

Ken

[innergee]

Originally Posted by keninsb

There is a kit you can buy. I bought mine on ebay for about $20, but you can get them at trailer supply stores, and maybe even Pep Boys, Kragen or Auto Zone. Install is super easy. There are plugs up near the spare tire mount that have a cap on them. You just take the cap off and install the new kit. Very straightforward. If I remember correctly, there is also a wire to run to the battery +. That is the hardest part.
Picasso posted some great pics in this thread:
WARNING!! U-Haul trailer wiring install nightmare!

Here is a kit on ebay, but I thought you might be able to find them cheaper:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

Hope this helps.

Ken

Will this work for a travel trailer. I'm sure there is a separate set of wires for the electric brakes. I have read here that its better to run the trailer power i.e. for trailer battery separately. Is the one you pointed me to a 7 pin setup??

[keninsb]

Originally Posted by innergee

Will this work for a travel trailer. I'm sure there is a separate set of wires for the electric brakes. I have read here that its better to run the trailer power i.e. for trailer battery separately. Is the one you pointed me to a 7 pin setup??

Not sure about the trailer brake part of things, but there are some members here who are real experts. I believe that both of the setups in the links I posted are 4 pin plugs, not seven pin.

You might want to send a PM to member RockyMtnRay. He is the Towing Moderator and seems to know a lot about the subject.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Ken

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by innergee

Will this work for a travel trailer. I'm sure there is a separate set of wires for the electric brakes. I have read here that its better to run the trailer power i.e. for trailer battery separately. Is the one you pointed me to a 7 pin setup??

Ken's excellent guidance is only for a 4-pin connnector...which provides the stop/brake/clearance-taillight functions of a trailer. You will need these for a travel trailer but you are correct that you will also need 12V power wire (to recharge the trailer's house battery) and connections to an electric brake controller.

Start by following Ken's advice and get a 4 pin interface to the Toyota wiring. Then get a 7 pin "Bargman" or "Pollack" "car-end" plug that already has the a 4 pin pigtail. Hook that pigtail into the 4 pin wire from the Toyota wiring. Then you'll have the part of the hookup that deals with lights taken care of.

The 12V power wire (for recharging the trailer battery), you'll need to run yourself. Start at your Tundra's battery and run a 10 gauge (nothing smaller) wire along the frame to the 7 pin Bargman plug. Somewhere near the battery make sure you have either a 30 amp fuse or auto-reset circuit breaker in this circuit.

The trailer brakes get a bit trickier...depending on which brake controller you get, you'll need to run a 10 gauge wire (with 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker) from the Tundra battery into the cab under the dash. This will hook to the 12V wire of the controller. You'll also need to provide a signal to the controller from the brake light switch as well as a good ground for it...these are done under the dash. Finally, you'll need to run a 10 guage wire from the controller to the back of the truck (along the frame) and connect that to the trailer brake pin on the Bargman connector. This is is the wire/circuit that provides power to the electric brakes on the trailer whenever you step on the truck brake pedal.

PM me if you need more detailed instructions.

[Toy2B]

Ray,

Does this same basic procedure apply to a 2002 Sequoia as well? Your directions seem straight forward.

If not is there another thread which would apply. I thought I saw another thread with a similar set of instructions.

My local trailer hitch store did not want to try to install the brake controller as he said the Sequoia has "multi plex" wiring. I expect that would only be an issue if you accidently cut into a data wire between electrical modules.

[innergee]

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRay

Ken's excellent guidance is only for a 4-pin connnector...which provides the stop/brake/clearance-taillight functions of a trailer. You will need these for a travel trailer but you are correct that you will also need 12V power wire (to recharge the trailer's house battery) and connections to an electric brake controller.

Start by following Ken's advice and get a 4 pin interface to the Toyota wiring. Then get a 7 pin "Bargman" or "Pollack" "car-end" plug that already has the a 4 pin pigtail. Hook that pigtail into the 4 pin wire from the Toyota wiring. Then you'll have the part of the hookup that deals with lights taken care of.

The 12V power wire (for recharging the trailer battery), you'll need to run yourself. Start at your Tundra's battery and run a 10 gauge (nothing smaller) wire along the frame to the 7 pin Bargman plug. Somewhere near the battery make sure you have either a 30 amp fuse or auto-reset circuit breaker in this circuit.

The trailer brakes get a bit trickier...depending on which brake controller you get, you'll need to run a 10 gauge wire (with 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker) from the Tundra battery into the cab under the dash. This will hook to the 12V wire of the controller. You'll also need to provide a signal to the controller from the brake light switch as well as a good ground for it...these are done under the dash. Finally, you'll need to run a 10 guage wire from the controller to the back of the truck (along the frame) and connect that to the trailer brake pin on the Bargman connector. This is is the wire/circuit that provides power to the electric brakes on the trailer whenever you step on the truck brake pedal.

PM me if you need more detailed instructions.

You rock Ray! I figured that none of this wiring was very difficult. So many different ways to do it right and wrong. With your help I have concluded that I need to buy a wiring kit (with circuit protector)that snaps directly into that connector by the spare and the connector by the battery. That takes care of the lighting i assume. trailer battery power and electric brake power lines i will need to run separate. Which is cool. I don't have the brake controller yet I'm going to get a Jordan.
**TIP** I ran a piece of flexible plastic conduit from engine compartment to the rear of the truck. I fished a pull string through it. that way when I add any wire for additional stuff i will zip right through. The conduit is blue and looks alot like the flexible metal conduit. Its better than Wire loom and very durable.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by innergee

You rock Ray! I figured that none of this wiring was very difficult. So many different ways to do it right and wrong. With your help I have concluded that I need to buy a wiring kit (with circuit protector)that snaps directly into that connector by the spare and the connector by the battery. That takes care of the lighting i assume. trailer battery power and electric brake power lines i will need to run separate. Which is cool. I don't have the brake controller yet I'm going to get a Jordan.

Glad to be of help. The Jordan is an excellent controller...will give you very proportional trailer braking.

Trailer lighting is almost taken care with the wiring kit you discuss. That kit will terminate in a 4 pin flat connector. Your trailer will have a 7 pin round (Bargmann) connector. You will need to buy a 7 pin "car end" Bargmann plug and you can get those with a short pigtail that plugs into the 4 pin flat connector...which is what you need to fully complete the trailer wiring circuits.

[ricqik]

What kind of brake system does the trailer have if it uses the reverse lights to disengage for backing up?

I have a 7 way plug and so far only the basic wires are hooked up for normal lights operation. To tow this trailer I am supposed to have this reverse light wire hooked up. How do I go about it and where should I tap in or should I?
Will be towing this in 2 days.

[nhparrot]

Originally Posted by ricqik

What kind of brake system does the trailer have if it uses the reverse lights to disengage for backing up?

I have a 7 way plug and so far only the basic wires are hooked up for normal lights operation. To tow this trailer I am supposed to have this backup light wire hooked up. How do I go about it and where should I tap in or should I?
Will be towing this in 2 days.

You can pick up the reverse/backup from either of the taillights. Driver's side is probably easiest.

[ricqik]

So I just tap in straight using the center wire(auxillary) from the 7 way plug? Do I need a fuse in between?

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by ricqik

What kind of brake system does the trailer have if it uses the reverse lights to disengage for backing up?

Surge brakes in all likelihood...they're frequently used on boat trailers because electromagnetic brakes (commonly used on travel trailers) don't last very well due to the fact that boat trailer wheels get submerged during launching/loading of the boat.

On trailers with surge brakes, the trailer tongue has a telescoping section that when compressed activates a hydraulic brake cylinder that in turn activates hydraulic brakes (typically drum brakes though they can be disk) on the trailer wheels. When you slow the truck in normal driving (typically by applying the brakes), the momentum of the trailer causes the telescoping section to compress and thus activates the trailer brakes. The problem with surge brakes is that backing up also tends to cause the same telescoping action of the tongue as does decelerating the truck. So the manufacturers use a solenoid valve that activates with the reverse circuit to keep the brakes from being applied during backing.

So I just tap in straight using the center wire from the 7 way plug? Do I need a fuse in between?

Yes, the center pin of the 7pin Bargman style plug is for the reverse or backup light power. Unless your trailer has backup lights in the taillight assemblies, the reverse circuit going to the trailer is only activating that brake valve solenoid (probably under 2 amps). Therefore a fuse between the truck's reverse lights and the center pin of the 7 pin connector isn't really necessary but certainly can't hurt...if there's a short circuit on the trailer, this fuse (if small enough in capacity) would blow before the truck's own fuse for the backup lights does. I'd therefore suggest starting with something along the lines of a 5 amp fuse and seeing what happens...a 5 amp fuse should be enough for the brake solenoid on the trailer.

[ricqik]

Thanks much, will be picking up a 04 Skeeter ZX250 w/Yammy 300HPDI tomarrow.
Just thought I'd ask first cuz they mention it needed the reverse lights to disengage the brakes for backing up.

[ricqik]

Looks like the trailer does have reverse lights, so what fuse should I go with. Same as the trucks or go 5 amp less. As of now there I didn't put a fuse there, just straight wire.

[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by ricqik

Looks like the trailer does have reverse lights, so what fuse should I go with. Same as the trucks or go 5 amp less. As of now there I didn't put a fuse there, just straight wire.

Start with 5 amps less and see how it works out.