I just bought an 05 DC and saw the wiring harness in the glove box. I plan on getting a small toyhauler and want to wire it up for brakes. I've never had a trailer that needed a brake controller. What do I do? Does it plug in under the dash somewhere then I have to run longer wires to the back? I'm kind of clueless with this subject? Help!!
Your brake control will wire into the harness. Then you plug in the harness connector. That's it. The wires already exist between the kick panel and the hitch.
I just bought an 05 DC and saw the wiring harness in the glove box. I plan on getting a small toyhauler and want to wire it up for brakes. I've never had a trailer that needed a brake controller. What do I do? Does it plug in under the dash somewhere then I have to run longer wires to the back? I'm kind of clueless with this subject? Help!!
Do yourself a favor and get the Prodigy brake controller. You should be able to find it for @ $100 or less. You can also get a wiring harness specific to your '05 that should allow you to just plug in. The wiring harness can be bought from Tekonsha. Here's a link: http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html
Hope this helps.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Here's another vote for the Tekonsha Prodigy or identical Drawtite IntellaBrake Ultra.
I prefer the Jordan Controller but it is a bit more work to install.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
And one more vote for the Prodigy. I have an 05 and I got the vehicle specific harness from e-trailer.com plugs right in. I ended up mounting it in the little cubby hole in the center column of my automatic DC. Ran the wire up behind the dash and plug right into the factory wiring. Looks very clean and works like a charm. I have a 5000# travel trailer and with the Prodigy both the truck and trailer stop smoothly in tandum. No bumping, jerking or bouncing. Best investment ever made.
__________________
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Tacoma V6 Auto 4x4 Double Cab 128"
White
TRD Off-Road
TRD CAT Back Exhaust, Bed Mat, Husky Floor Mats, Wildcat Flash Nerf Bars, Prodigy Brake Controller, In Dash cell phone mount, Cargo Bars w/Thule Ski & Bike Attachments, Toyo Open Country A/T Tires (Stock Size)
And one more vote for the Prodigy. I have an 05 and I got the vehicle specific harness from e-trailer.com plugs right in. I ended up mounting it in the little cubby hole in the center column of my automatic DC. Ran the wire up behind the dash and plug right into the factory wiring. Looks very clean and works like a charm. I have a 5000# travel trailer and with the Prodigy both the truck and trailer stop smoothly in tandum. No bumping, jerking or bouncing. Best investment ever made.
I just bought the Odyssey from Valley Industries, because I found it locally for $100, whereas the Prodigy was $145. It appears to work just like the Prodigy, plus I won't be able to destroy it by hooking it up backwards. I haven't used it yet, and my truck seems to brake the trailer fine without it so there probably won't be much noticeable effect, but I thought I'd mention that there does appear to be a copycat on the market now.
One more thing, Camping World (if you have a store near you) will price match internet ad's providing you print it out and bring it to the store. Include the cost of shipping with the internet ad. You do not have to be a member of Camping World to get the discount. I did this last week and saved $45 over their in store price. I walked out of there feeling like I stole it.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Do yourself a favor and get the Prodigy brake controller. You should be able to find it for @ $100 or less. You can also get a wiring harness specific to your '05 that should allow you to just plug in. The wiring harness can be bought from Tekonsha. Here's a link: http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html
Hope this helps.
I looked for the wiring harness on that website and they only list up to an 03. Is that the best price for the prodigy? I also read on etrailer.com that it requires to put in a seperate circuit braker for this piece. Is this true?
Every brake controller needs power. It comes off the + terminal in the fuse panel, through an auto-reset circuit breaker, and to the controller. Depending on the controller, you'll need #12 wire and a 20 amp breaker or #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Or there might be a spot for a fuse already in your fuse panel...check. Use the fuse size recommended by the controller maker.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
Every brake controller needs power. It comes off the + terminal in the fuse panel, through an auto-reset circuit breaker, and to the controller. Depending on the controller, you'll need #12 wire and a 20 amp breaker or #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Or there might be a spot for a fuse already in your fuse panel...check. Use the fuse size recommended by the controller maker.
Ken
One more vote for the prodigy, I have it and love it.
As for power ... mine draws from the factory connector. I did not need anything other than a harness and the controller, I actually spent more time mounting it than I did with the electrical. It is really a plug and play thing if you have the factory tow package.
One more vote for the prodigy, I have it and love it.
As for power ... mine draws from the factory connector. I did not need anything other than a harness and the controller, I actually spent more time mounting it than I did with the electrical. It is really a plug and play thing if you have the factory tow package.
Unfortunately my truck is an '01, so while I got the factory tow package, I didn't get the plug & play features. Tonight I ran my charge line, this weekend I need to install my brake controller, do a front brake job on the truck, and shop like mad to outfit my new trailer appropriately. Anyone with an "older" Tundra want to tell me what was an easy/difficult place to pop through the firewall? I took a cursory glance up under the dash above the brake pedal tonight, and I'm assuming the clip above the "piston" mechanism is where I'll find two wires, one of which will be "cold" except when the brake is depressed.
I'm getting close enough to my vacation that I'm considering not messing with stuff anymore so I don't screw something up that I don't have time to fix. I know my truck brakes itself & my (2800 lb) trailer well enough without a controller, so should I hold off lest I hit something bad trying to punch a hole in the firewall or fry something trying to tap into one of the wires on the brake pedal?
Help with brake controller
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