Weight Distribution Hitch??

jc250r31 · #1 (**permalink**) 08-23-2005, 10:32 PM

I have a '04 DC 4x4 and wanted some opinions as to the trailer I normally pull.
It is a tandem axle 6x12 with V-nose enclosed trailer. I looked around and on my invoice it states the shipping weight of the trailer was 1800#, I have installed some wood cabinets inside the V-nose and a rooftop A/C unit. I normally haul 1 or 2 Race Quads with fuel, riding gear, Generator, Pressure Washer, Tools, ice chests...etc. I would imagine the weight of the trailer fully loaded would probably be around 3400#?? Something along those lines maybe more. I would like some suggestions as to anything regarding towing or setup that would be of help. I currently have 265-70-17 Yokohama Geolander M/T+ tires and the K&N FIPK system (which as it turns out I have been reading crappy things about so it will more than likely get sold soon)

Thanks
John

jc250r31 · #2 (**permalink**) 08-25-2005, 04:37 PM

Anyone?

basian99 · #3 (**permalink**) 08-25-2005, 07:10 PM

A weight distribution system would definitlely help some. I have one installed on a 16' tandem axle horse trailer. With the trailer hooked up empty (3800lbs) to my 03' extcab 4X4 my truck squat almost 4 inches. After I had the weight distribution system installed on the trailer my squat was reduced to less than 3/4 inch. If you dont have one already, hook up trailer brakes to your trailer and mount a good controller in the cab and you'll have no problems w/ that kind of weight. My truck easily pulls my trailer now w/ a 1300lb horse in it. ......

rayman · #4 (**permalink**) 08-25-2005, 08:48 PM

With that weight, a weight distribution hitch is probably the way to go. I have a 2002 Tundra access cab 4x4 and tow a Sunline travel trailer that is just under 4000 lbs dry. If I move it around at home without the weight distribution hitch and bars, it will sag noticeably in the rear. I also have a small lift consisting of Donahoe coil-overs in the front and add-a-leafs in the rear. And don't forget the electric brake controller if you trailer is so equipped. Most important, make sure you are not overloading your trailer. Good luck.

jc250r31 · #5 (**permalink**) 08-26-2005, 10:04 AM

Thanks for the replies, I already have the trailer brakes with the brake controller. But currently I pull it with the hitch receiver with the 2-5/6" ball.
Other than that I havent done anything else to the truck for towing. It has 2 - 3500 lb axles with a GVWR of 7000lbs so I am about half loaded per the trailer tag. It does squat a considerable bit when loaded. I basically wanted to see if a WDH was needed for my application or if it would to overkill. Also any other enhancements as well for towing.

Thanks again.
John

Herbicidal · #6 (**permalink**) 08-26-2005, 11:30 AM

I would agree with Rayman. It will be safer to tow the trailer with a WD hitch setup. I have 1,000 lb WD bars, but my TT weighs in at 5,620 when loaded to go camping. You would probably be fine with the 750 lb bars. When set up correctly, your truck and trailer will sit nice and level.

I would also suggest finding a place to have it weighed when it is fully loaded, just so you know what it does actually weigh. Check your local yellow pages for public scales. Even if you do have to pay to have it weighed, it should only cost @ $10 or so.

Yeah, I would probably ditch the K&N FIPK and go back to the stock air box, etc. I have made a couple of mod's to help with towing. The first and least expensive was the addition of a Hellwig anti-sway bar for the rear. Then a couple of years later I installed a set of the JBA headers and finally the Unichip PnP. All of these work very well together for the trailer I pull.

jc250r31 · #7 (**permalink**) 08-26-2005, 11:45 AM

Yeah I plan on getting it weighed once I get it good and loaded. How does the Hellwig sway bar affect towing? I was thinking about getting one but didnt know any effects it would have. If another group buy comes up I will more than likely get the JBA headers, How good did the unichip help out? So with the Equalizer hitch I just need basically the smallest one they sell with the 750lb bars, correct?

Herbicidal · #8 (**permalink**) 08-26-2005, 12:09 PM

The Hellwig bar helps to stabilize the whole rear-end of the truck. The bar itself is bolted to the rear axle, then the end-links are bolted to the frame of the truck. The end-links have polyurethane bushings at each end that allow for some flexibility. With this configuration, the truck is much more stable. One example is when applying the brakes hard, the truck wants to nose-dive as weight is shifted forward and the rear wants to lift. With the anti-sway bar connected, it prevents the rear end from lifting. Instead, the whole truck tends to squat down. Cornering is improved also. The truck remains much "flatter" (side-to-side) in the corners, in other words, less body roll. These factors lead to a more stable towing experience.

Regarding the Unichip, I installed it within two weeks of the JBA's so I cannot provide feedback on it alone with regards to towing. However, immediately I noticed the shifting and throttle response is much 'crisper' and it would hold a gear longer, before shifting, especially if you're on the throttle merging into freeway traffic. Combined with the JBA's I am very happy!

I'm personally not familiar with the Equalizer hitch, so you might want to check out their web page for more info: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

jc250r31 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-30-2005, 07:41 AM

I just got my equalizer in and I was curious how do yall leave it setup once done installing on your trailer. I mean once you unhitch do you take off the brackets bolted to the frame of the trailer or just leave them on in the weather? It looks like it may take a few minutes to set up the first time but I dont imagine it should take very long every other time after that. Now I just have to stop working 7 days so I can go use it.

Also I would like to go to a Truck stop and get everything weighed. Would I be correct doing it this way?
1. Connect the WDH and get on the scales, let them take the reading. Once they are done with the first then,
2. Disconnect the load bars with the truck in the same position and let them take another reading.

I would like to know what I was pulling before the WDH and then I want to know the difference it made in distribution as well since I basicall pull the same amount of stuff in the trailer every time. So when I disconnect the load bars will that give BASICALLY the same effect if the trialer were just hooked to a standard hitch? I realize that the results probably will be skewed a little because this WDH weighs a good bit, but I am just looking for a general idea of what I was doing previous of the WDH.

Thanks,
John

RockyMtnRay · #10 (**permalink**) 09-30-2005, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jc250r31

I just got my equalizer in and I was curious how do yall leave it setup once done installing on your trailer. I mean once you unhitch do you take off the brackets bolted to the frame of the trailer or just leave them on in the weather? It looks like it may take a few minutes to set up the first time but I dont imagine it should take very long every other time after that.

I think that most people just leave the brackets attached to the trailer between uses. I certainly do...mine have been on the trailer for about 4 years now.

Quote:

Now I just have to stop working 7 days so I can go use it.

Also I would like to go to a Truck stop and get everything weighed. Would I be correct doing it this way?
1. Connect the WDH and get on the scales, let them take the reading. Once they are done with the first then,
2. Disconnect the load bars with the truck in the same position and let them take another reading.

I would like to know what I was pulling before the WDH and then I want to know the difference it made in distribution as well since I basicall pull the same amount of stuff in the trailer every time. So when I disconnect the load bars will that give BASICALLY the same effect if the trialer were just hooked to a standard hitch? I realize that the results probably will be skewed a little because this WDH weighs a good bit, but I am just looking for a general idea of what I was doing previous of the WDH.

Thanks,
John

Your planned approach is not the normal method...most folks weigh the truck without the trailer attached and again with it attached (and WDH bars hooked up). That being said, what you have in mind could produce some interesting numbers about the effectiveness of a WDH.

If you want to get fancy and pay for yet another weighing, you can also weigh the trailer by itself with the WDH hooked up (the WDH transfers some (about a third) of the tongue weight onto the trailer axles). It's good to know the weights on the trailer tires as well since they are often being loaded very close to their rated capacities.

jc250r31 · #11 (**permalink**) 09-30-2005, 11:17 PM

Well I guess I figured that my truck would wiegh about the same as any other DC out there for the most part....that being said I also just realized that I wouldnt know the weight bearing on each truck axle with an unladen truck so I see your point. I dont think the scales charge that much to weigh do they ? Something to the effect of $7.00?....I cant remember. Once I get a chance to hook everything up I will post the results as I am sure a few might be interested.

tomhole · #12 (**permalink**) 10-01-2005, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jc250r31

Well I guess I figured that my truck would wiegh about the same as any other DC out there for the most part....that being said I also just realized that I wouldnt know the weight bearing on each truck axle with an unladen truck so I see your point. I dont think the scales charge that much to weigh do they ? Something to the effect of $7.00?....I cant remember. Once I get a chance to hook everything up I will post the results as I am sure a few might be interested.

If you use CAT scales, they charge 9$ for the first weight and $1 for all the rest. Issue I had was the line of very large trucks behind me, I had to be expedient in my weighing. So I weighed the three axles first (2 on TV and 1 on trailer on seperate pads of the scale). Then I pulled off and unhooked the trailer and got the 2 axles of the TV without the trailer. Seemed to provide enough info to figure things out. You could do the first weight with the trailer with and without the WD bars hooked up. It might be hard to communicate with the scale folks if it is busy and they are not co-located with the scale itself (like at the truckstop I was at).

My local scale charges $10 / weight, so that could get more expensive.

Tom

batnav · #13 (**permalink**) 10-01-2005, 11:21 AM

jc250r31,
Check out the TS homepage or group buy for Open Buy for JBA headers. Thought about getting them for myself too.

jc250r31 · #14 (**permalink**) 10-01-2005, 11:39 AM

Yeah I was thinking about the JBA's I will have to check that out