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TowingDiscussions related to towing and towing products.
This is a discussion thread titled "yet another jba header question....", within the Towing forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
ok, not to beat a dead horse, but i'm a bit confused.
there's a group buy on jba headers going on now. i was almost conviced to go for it, but have been doing a lot of reading on TS and there are so many different views no i'm not sure anymore.
first, i think the low end torque improvements offered by the jba short tube cat4ward design is what i want. i run slightly larger winter tires (about 5% increase in diameter) and will be towing relatively light trailers periodically. i also travel a lot in the ozark mountains near branson missouri so my truck sees a lot of steep grades (albeit short ones - nothing like the rockies) and the low end torque increase plus the earlier rise in the rpm band is appealing.
i've also heard a lot about the quality issues on the jbas that has me worried. some received them with poor coatings, poor weld quality and low overall fit and finish. i understand i should use the stock oem gaskets and donuts for the best seals, so no problem there.
i guess i'm wondering if it's worth holding out for a jba long tube design for the 4.7 non-vvti or if that's just dreaming. or maybe go with a different manufacturer? is the advantage of the long tube over the short tube significant? and is it worth the hassle of having the sensors and cats moved?
i remember reading that ray went through this process and decided to go with the shorties on his 03. i'm wondering if thinking is starting to change on this or if the jba ceramic coated shorty design is still the best to get the low end torque to come on early with the least hassle.
if this works out, i'll eventually do the gibson muffler once the wallet fattens up again!
The prices for the group buy are quite good! I let my buddy know about it and he placed his order last night and he's a Toyota master mechanic. I've had mine on now since November of 2004 and I am VERY happy with them. I bought the coated ones. If you decide to buy a set, when you get them, have the surface that mates to the block checked with a 'certified' straight edge. You want to make sure these guys are FLAT. I've had no leaks or problems, period.
I also tow a 26' travel trailer and they have definately helped. I don't believe you would regret buying these headers.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Yaris sedan 'S'. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's - mounts welded up by AJ at BentUp.com, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank from Wheelers Off-Road, Inc, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with transmission temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedometer Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer Grill Guard, brush guard and 9.5ti winch w/cover. Budbuilt traction bar. Wheelers Off Road Centric performance brake rotors: cross-drilled and slotted. Staun tyre deflators set for 13 psi. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
I have about 8K on my coated JBA's and the performance keeps getting better.
I like the current bolt-on cat4ward shorty design and I have a Gibson SS muffler sitting in a box, but don't think I need it.
Yes, make sure you use new OE Toyota gaskets when you install your new headers
I have the TRD Headers only because they didnt cost me hardly anything. BUT>>>If i had to BUY a set of headers, it would be the JBA's. I have installed alot of headers and I like the JBA's the best, even over the TRD's.
They fit the best, easier to install and have the best quality out of the headers I have seen and installed.
Use the OEM gaskets and nuts, soak them first in WD-40 (or equivilant) to ease in removal and you should be fine.
I second that "GO FOR IT"
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
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herbicidal, regarding the trueness of the flange, i have a good, certified straight edge, but what if it's not flat. do i need to take it to a machine shop to have it ground? what should i look for in the yellow pages? will that mess up the coating?
thanks everyone for the feedback! it really helps.
herbicidal, regarding the trueness of the flange, i have a good, certified straight edge, but what if it's not flat. do i need to take it to a machine shop to have it ground? what should i look for in the yellow pages? will that mess up the coating?
thanks everyone for the feedback! it really helps.
If you doubt your straight edge, I would suggest making a couple of calls to local machine shops. I would ask them if they would be willing to check the accuracy of the mating surface on a pair of headers for a nominal charge. Heck, they may do it for free.
If they are out of spec, you have a couple of options. First, would be to contact JBA. When I received my headers and had them checked by a mechanic buddy with a SnapOn straight edge, we found they were not perfectly flat. I don’t remember exactly how far off they were, but I do recall it was enough for some concern. I called JBA and they said to send them back and they would ensure they were truly flat. However, I had already lined up a “header install day” with some other TS members and the time frame was too tight to ship the headers back to JBA and then back to me in time for the install. I was fortunate that my buddy was able to take them to his shop and work on them until they were flat.
Another option would be to have the machine shop that checked them, correct them. We’re probably only talking thousandths of an inch any way. If you’re not under a tight time frame, I would have JBA fix them.
As far as the yellow pages, I would think looking under machine shops would put you in the right direction.
No problem with the coating since if any machining is required, a gasket would cover the machined surface anyway.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Yaris sedan 'S'. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's - mounts welded up by AJ at BentUp.com, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank from Wheelers Off-Road, Inc, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with transmission temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedometer Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer Grill Guard, brush guard and 9.5ti winch w/cover. Budbuilt traction bar. Wheelers Off Road Centric performance brake rotors: cross-drilled and slotted. Staun tyre deflators set for 13 psi. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
I have the plain uncoated stainless JBA's, and they looked pretty nice quality finish to me. It's all subjective, if you compare the JBA's to the stock manifolds, the JBA's look beautiful! I used the JBA gaskets too, no problems. Most people around here are using new OEM gaskets though.
__________________ MODS: JBA headers! Magnaflow muffler, TRD 4x4 coils & shocks, Wheeler's AAL's, Truxedo bed cover, Bridgestone Dueler AT LT265/75/16, Surepull hitch, Drawtite convertor box, MAPP nerf bars, Toyota bed mat
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