I put a factory OEM trailer converter/harness on my 2004 highlander to operate the trailer lights. it plugged into the factory tow package plug in the rear driver side fender well. it worked fine for a year, then burned out ( its 20 amp fuse in the front did not blow) just the black module in the wiring harness burned out, power was to it, no power coming out..
I then purchased on line a Draw-tite 18248 model. the picture of the whole harness looked the same as the factory one but when I got it I found it had only a 10 amp fuse (not the factory 20 amp) to go into the cars system and a big warning sticker about
"not exceding 1 stop/turn lite per side and not exceeding 5 amps on the
tail lights".
I have an 18 ft boat with a factory stock trailer which has 3 small clearance lights on each side- 6 total, and also a 3 unit light bar across the back, plus the regular stop and
tail lights . These clearance lights are all on the tail light circuit (at .5 amps each) and the
tail lights are 1 amp each)so that exceeds the 5 amp limit for the tail light circuit specified by hidden hitch).
why they downgraded what Toyota specs as new (20 amps) all the way down to 10 amps I have no clue.
Their package also lacked a grommet that seals where the wire goes through the rear wheel well to keep exhaust fumes out. The grommet can only be put on when the factory makes up the harness. the 4 prong flat plug will not go thru the grommet.
Made by the Cequent electrical products company,
buyer beware. they may make the Hidden hitch brand too
Are draw-tite wiring converters undersized?
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