I have the brake controller adjusted just right for regular speeds, however when going slow in the campground you can really feel the trailer braking harder than the truck - since my foot is barely on the break. When you let off it jerks forward when the brakes release. Is this normal? Do the more expensive contollers help eliminate this? I am using a husky digital controller that the dealer sold with the trailer. If I back off the controller any then it feels like the trailer is pushing the truck at city and highway driving speeds.
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Matt
2003 4runner Limited
2003 Sequoia Limited
1989 Supra Turbo
I have the brake controller adjusted just right for regular speeds, however when going slow in the campground you can really feel the trailer braking harder than the truck - since my foot is barely on the break. When you let off it jerks forward when the brakes release. Is this normal? Do the more expensive contollers help eliminate this? I am using a husky digital controller that the dealer sold with the trailer. If I back off the controller any then it feels like the trailer is pushing the truck at city and highway driving speeds.
Can't say for your specific model but I know I have a Prodigy controller and it was very very easy to dial in. Sometimes you just have to find that sweet spot where you're comfortable with. HOWEVER as you mentioned.. some of the more "expensive" controllers might work better. You will also experience different responses at different speeds. The Prodigy I have has three "boost" settings that set the braking according to driving conditions. B1 starts the braking on the trailer a little more agressively than not having boost on and trails off the initial "attack" of the brakes at a specific rate. B2 and B3 are modifications of B1 with a more agressive "attack". I find that on the highway I use B1 a lot but if I forget to turn off the boost when in the city I feel the same "thump" of the trailer you feel. Reminds me to turn the boost off. How you're loaded and the weight of the trailer will make a difference as well. In your case you may have to find the sweet spot each time you go out.
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Tacoma V6 Auto 4x4 Double Cab 128"
White
TRD Off-Road
TRD CAT Back Exhaust, Bed Mat, Husky Floor Mats, Wildcat Flash Nerf Bars, Prodigy Brake Controller, In Dash cell phone mount, Cargo Bars w/Thule Ski & Bike Attachments, Toyo Open Country A/T Tires (Stock Size)
mine doesn't have the boost other than the emergency brake boost. It has the different lead times, & ramp up time, but not 3 different settings. I set it once & away I go - so it is a little agressive at slower speeds but good on the highway.
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Matt
2003 4runner Limited
2003 Sequoia Limited
1989 Supra Turbo
mine doesn't have the boost other than the emergency brake boost. It has the different lead times, & ramp up time, but not 3 different settings. I set it once & away I go - so it is a little agressive at slower speeds but good on the highway.
Your problem (and it's a big one) is caused by the fact that you have what's known as a "time-delay" controller. Time delay controllers simply increase (ramp up) the current to the trailer brakes the longer the brake pedal is depressed. So what you have is trailer braking that's proportional to how long the truck's brake is applied, not to how hard the truck's brake is applied. Hence you have adjustments for lead times and ramp up time (notice the emphasis on time) but absolutely no adjustment for how hard you apply the truck's brakes. That means that when you adjust your controller for enough braking at highway speeds, it provides way too much at low speeds. And if you adjust it for low speeds, it provides way too little braking at highway speeds. It also means that even if you start letting off the brakes, the controller is still applying more and more trailer braking until you completely take your foot of the brake pedal...then it completely releases the trailer brakes all at once and then you get a whole lot of jerking. Just a totally bad scene from every aspect.
By comparison, the good "proportional" controllers (the ones that dealers don't "throw in" with the deal) actually provide trailer braking that's proportional to how hard you brake the truck, not to how long you have truck brake applied. Brake hard...the trailer brakes hard, brake easy, the trailer brakes easy. Start letting off on the truck brakes, the controller starts letting off on the trailer brakes. So when you finally take your foot off the brake pedal there's absolutely no jerking or sudden changes in trailer braking. Plus, since a proportional controller is actually smart enough to monitor how you brake (not how long you brake), you adjust it once and never have to adjust it again.
The really good proportional controllers (like the reasonably priced Tekonsha Prodigy...only about $125~$140) use solid state accelerometers to measure how hard you're braking and subtract out the effects of gravity (so braking going down hill works the same as braking on level ground). The slightly lower cost "pendulum" style proportional controllers (like the Tekonsha Voyager...typically around $75~$90) are OK on level ground but tend to apply too much braking when descending steep grades.
Bottom line: throw that POS and exceedingly dangerous time-delay controller you currently have in the trash, then spend about $130 to buy and install a really good proportional controller. You will simply not believe how much smoother the whole rig brakes and stops...and you also won't believe how could have ever put up with your current controller. The difference is truly that huge...and the upgrade cost is so low. Oh...and you can most likely also use your current wiring harness to connect to the Prodigy.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
The proportional controllers are the only way to go. Adjust it once and check it yearly. I have an older Tekonsha, and it works great for my T-100 4X4. I also just bought a Tekonsha Prodigy and was going to install it, but decided to wait till I get my 07 in May?
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The laws of plunder-Laws that allow the government to take actions that are unlawful if taken by an individual, which profit individuals who make the laws or their supporters.
You'll enjoy it, I'm sure. I was druelling over a 2007 DC with a long bed yesterday when I had my 2005 in for service. BIG! No crew max here locally, yet. That has got to be the nicest towing gasser, bar none.
Installed the Prodigy last night. I took the trailer for a quick spin in the rain. It seems to work well. I can definately feel a difference when letting up on the brakes at a stop and hitting the brakes. It almost feels like the trailer isn't there. It's a light trailer and probably not a required item but I think I'll like it quite well.
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'07 Tundra Slate Metallic SR5 4x4 TRD 381 HP/401 TQ
------------------------------------ Blind allegiance is not my strong suit
You're making me jealous. I gotta stop by and see if the local dealer will let me hook my trailer to a 5.7 with the tow package. That'll be an expensive test drive.
Play around with the boost feature a bit and see what you like. As mentioned earlier, I have the Prodigy and use boost 1 at hwy speeds and no boost in town. If you find that there doesn't seem to be enough trailer braking even with the Prodigy set to max voltage, you may need to adjust the trailer brakes a bit. I had to.
brake controller Q
Re: brake controller Q
Linear Mode
