After reading all of the complaints on here about the oil change, I was expecting the worse. Now maybe if this was your first oil change, it could be a pain, but this was a fairly typical job. The hardest part for me, was figuring out that the plastic drain plug snaps into the filer housing instead of just holding it up there with warm oil dripping down my arm.
Thanks for the excellent writeup and pics. Made the change easy. After reading all the complaints I thought this was going to be hard. Took less than an hour for the first change, so will be much faster next time. I didn't get much oil out of the filter housing so I might skip the drain next time and just remove it full of oil. The only pain was the $5.99 polycarbonate filter tool that slipped. I noticed that it doesn't seat fully - there are 4 vertical tabs on the housing that prevent it. I filed 4 slots with a 3/8" round file to let the housing insert farther into the tool and then no probs. A cast 65mm one would be better- I still may get one since they are cheap. Installed a fumoto drain valve (F103) to make less mess. Next change I might cut a round hole under the filter housing so that I can leave it on. Thanks again.
I completed my first oil change at 3k today and was pleasantly surprised that it was far less painful than anticipated. I got a large 5 gallon oil catch tub with high sides and put a large sheetmetal Blitz drip pan under that (didn't need it though.) After doing all of my service work on my 94 4x4 SR5 with the 3.0, the 5.7 was a far cleaner job with the help of this write up (excellent job!) No oil spilling everywhere like my 3.0 when pulling the filter. I simply put a 10" piece of garden hose over the plastic oil filter cap drain tool and it went right into the catch tub with no mess. I used the KD Tools 65mm metal cap socket 3/8 drive. I used to have to take the skid plate off on my 3.0 and even then you had to be a contortionist to get at the filter. I also pull the skid plate on the wife's 4Runner with 4.7 for oil changes, so I guess for me pulling the skid plate is just the norm. I used the OEM filter and Mobil 1 5w-20 full synthetic. The only time consuming thing was waiting for the oil to drain (jacked up driver side front and got quite a bit more oil out.) Torqued everything to factory spec and good to go. Thanks again for the sticky!
Last edited by highway74; 12-21-2007 at 07:02 PM.
Reason: add
My total cost for Mobil 1 and OEM filter was about $40.00. Toyota wanted $75.00 with Mobil 1 and I have the piece of mind that it was done right with the right oil.
Craftsman 44595 Torque Wrench, 1/2 in. Drive at Sears.com
They are on sale and can save you a bunch of money if youhave had one too many beers!! Yes they are expensive but A MUST to use unless ya wanta be like the dealer techs!! worth every penny!!
Does anyone know if a conversion kit is in the works to get rid of the cartridge filter? I would drop whatever it takes to get back to the spin on filter...
Does anyone know if a conversion kit is in the works to get rid of the cartridge filter? I would drop whatever it takes to get back to the spin on filter...
Why? That would complicate the system more. Get used to it, not that hard.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
It's not hard but it take considerably longer than my chevy.
Yes they are expensive but A MUST to use unless ya wanta be like the dealer techs!!
worth every penny!!
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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