This helped a lot. Thanks. I did run in to one problem though. The filter cap would not come off using the "Walmart" 65/67mm 14 flute wrench. It kept slipping from the cap. After refilling the engine with 7 qts of oil, I had to drive it to my local dealer to have them remove and replace the oil filter for me. This time, they allowed me to observe and even tightened my own filter cap after replacing the O-rings so I know exactly how much resistance there is the next time I go to remove it for an oil change. I saw the oil technician tighten the oil cap and he did it really tight. The truck was raised on the stands, so it's very easy to overtighten it, so I made sure it was tight enough, not overtight like what the dealership does. Also, they used an all metal flute wrench that worked a lot better than my plastic one.
I recommend getting the metal one because if you've ever let the dealer change your oil before you, they might have overtightened the cap, and trying to loosen it from a laying position is a lot harder than the standing position.
__________________ 2007 Tundra CrewMax LTD 8272 Black/Sand Biege - Navigation, Rear Seat Entertainment, 20" Alloys, Sunroof, Mudguards, Sonar, DTR, V2 Alarm w/GBS. MODS: Line-X, RETRAX, Tech Formula Paint Sealant, Debadged, Clear DRL's, AMP Powerstep Running Boards, 2.4" ReadyLift, Nitto Terra Grapplers 305/55/20's on OEM LTD 20" Alloys, Ravelco Anti-Theft Device, aFe CAI Stage 2 ProDry S, Corsa Performance Touring Exhaust. NEXT MODS: TRD Sway Bar, Auto Tailgate.
This was great help. Thank you. I have been changing oil all the way back to the days that we used leaded gasoline to clean up our spilled oil. I especially liked the write up that states "I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with". I have to second that. Several things I notice. I bought a six pack. If you are a pro at changing oil this one will not be as quick as you thought. You better by a 12 pack. I found out the hard way. I put it back together and put the skid plate back on. Filled it up with oil and turned it on. Well some how I put the large rubber ring on the filter cover wrong. Go figure. It got pinched out side of the filter cover and leaked all over the driveway. Boy I could have used long necks and some leaded gas. I had to clean it up take the skid plate off and redue the ring. I bought my filter from Checker/Shucks/Kragen. It was a Fram filter and it cost me about $6.00. They had to order it and it took a half day to get in. What I would liked to see is the, and I should taken pictures, filter out and where the ring goes in place. When you take yours apart make sure you make note were the large rubber ring is. Do not take it off and start drinking. You will put it on wrong. Second, my truck has had the oil changed by the dealer and I noticed that they put the oil filter cover on as tight as they could. I had to use the rubber strap type wrench to bust it loose. One thing I did notice was the 65/67mm wrench did not work. I bought mine from a Napa store for $4.16. It too took them a half day to get it in. So call first before you go in to Napa. Maybe I do not understand the concept of the wrench but when I put it on and start torking it down all it does is jump loose and spin on the cover. I found myself pushing harder on the wrench against the cover than I was using with the other arm to spin the 3/8" ratchet. I could use some help here and the proper use of the wrench. So get your self a 12 pack of long necks a few limes and have fun. Thanks again for the help.
The $60.00 price from the dealership for a M1 oil change is sounding better and better...
Problem with that is, will they really put in Mobil 1, will they put in the right viscosity oil, will they actually change the filter. Id say give it a try, for about $35 to $40 (for good synthetic) you can do it yourself, and be 100% sure its right.
I would give it a try once or twice before opting for a dealer.
One thing the new gen Tundras have over the old is, the filter dissecting gurus, would love this setup, no filter cutter required.
Just completed my first oil change, thanks to your great post. I second the messy part. I read your warning about the oil squirting toward the wheel, so I moved the oil pan that way but it still was coming out so hard it splashed out of the oil pan and on to the wheel. I then watched it until it slowed down and moved the pan directly under it and went for that first beer. When I looked again, the oil had run out of the drain hole and along the bottom of the oil pan and missed the oil pan and onto the driveway. What a mess! The only shortcoming of your post was that you did not list a dozen towels along with the necessary tools. I will try to do better the next time.
The next time you get a big card board box, fold it and save it to use underneath when changing your oil. I save all my big boxes, they come in very useful for situation like changing your oil and turkey frying.
I thank you for your thoughtful post (sticky). It was very helpful.
I havn't had time to read all 11 pages, so this may be a re-post.
I think they do this with the skid-plate on at the dealer, after looking at the wrench-hole in the skid-plate, I'm going to do this next time. I'll use a hose on the plastic thingy that drains the filter. I'll reach above the skidplate from the driver side to install the service-tool (oil filter wrench) which I'm going to buy from toyota after having trouble with my plastic-one flexing and slipping alot.
The whole thing was a hassle, but by leaving the skid-plane installed (if it works) I'm thinking it will be much easier.
Hey also, a torque-wrench is a great idea, but not for everything. I've got 280,000 miles on my camry. The oil pan is really thick at the bottom. I'm sure I've 'overtorqued' it about a hundred times, still holds my Mobil 1 though...
Love finding this forum, Love my 5.7 Tundra !! Thanks everyone !!
Last edited by barthmonster; 04-05-2008 at 10:52 PM.
I'll add again that this is in fact the worst vehicle I've ever seen for oil changes. My truck is 8 months old, but only has 3000 miles, so I figured it was time. Took almost 2 hours, and I'm a fairly competent, but admittedly slow mechanic.
I started by driving up on a couple sections of 2x6, just to get a bit more room underneath. Then I cut down a 5 gallon bucket to fit underneath, but I still spilled a 1/2 pint of oil or so because after the initial surge, the drip point keeps moving.. You certainly can't go grab a drink, because you will have a mess.
The skid pan wasn't too bad, but the whole filter drain thing, I don't get it.. When I pushed it up, only a bit came out of the tube, most came around the edges. Some smart guy needs to create a screw-in tool that will activate the drain valve after a few turns, and actually drain down the tube. I'll pay $15 for one.
After too much oil ran down my gloves, and dripped onto my sleeve, I grabbed a 16mm flat wrench, and used it as a lever over the sway bar to push up on the drain tool, and that worked great. Good leverage, and nothing dripping on my arms.
The rest was easy, thanks to this VERY HELPFUL thread. Thanks so much!
All things considered, it's still probably better than letting some uncaring tech at a dealer or jiffy lube do it. If I drove 15k a year, that might change my mind though.
Pete
__________________
07 Nautical blue, doublecab, 4x4, 5.7, shortbed, benchseat, SR5
05 Jetta wagon TDI, worth more now then when I bought it
My Dad still drives my old 1986 Hilux 4x4 most days. He has a new car, but he just loves that old truck.
I'll add again that this is in fact the worst vehicle I've ever seen for oil changes. My truck is 8 months old, but only has 3000 miles, so I figured it was time. Took almost 2 hours, and I'm a fairly competent, but admittedly slow mechanic.
I started by driving up on a couple sections of 2x6, just to get a bit more room underneath. Then I cut down a 5 gallon bucket to fit underneath, but I still spilled a 1/2 pint of oil or so because after the initial surge, the drip point keeps moving.. You certainly can't go grab a drink, because you will have a mess.
The skid pan wasn't too bad, but the whole filter drain thing, I don't get it.. When I pushed it up, only a bit came out of the tube, most came around the edges. Some smart guy needs to create a screw-in tool that will activate the drain valve after a few turns, and actually drain down the tube. I'll pay $15 for one.
After too much oil ran down my gloves, and dripped onto my sleeve, I grabbed a 16mm flat wrench, and used it as a lever over the sway bar to push up on the drain tool, and that worked great. Good leverage, and nothing dripping on my arms.
The rest was easy, thanks to this VERY HELPFUL thread. Thanks so much!
All things considered, it's still probably better than letting some uncaring tech at a dealer or jiffy lube do it. If I drove 15k a year, that might change my mind though.
Pete
I'll admit it was tricky. I had been lucky enough to read your post about the mess PRIOR to my first oil change (today) so I figured there was a 'trick' to the little plastic filter drain device (prior to this known as a 'thingy'). I tried to push it up in the filter and it didn't work, so I got re-centered so that I could push it up into place hard with both thumbs and my head to one side so it wouldn't squirt in my face. That worked, it SNAPS up in there and drains the filter in about a minute, maybe a little more.
I still want to try the drain-hose idea and leaving the skid-plate on...
DON'T EVER TAKE A TRUCK THIS NICE TO JIFFY-LUBE !!!! That place has way too many under-trained, under-paid people to touch something this nice. They ruined my buddy's 10-bolt on his chevelle. Just my opinion...
After reading through this entire thread, nobody had an answer as to why it was designed this way. Why does the 4.7L have a spin-on filter. Is it just because there isn't enough room for the spin-on or is the cartridge type actually better. I've got the old gen Tundra and it is possible to change the filter without pulling the skidplate off, but I take it off anyway, it's just much easier. Plus I can inspect things while it's off and clean the bottom of the radiator.
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
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