Changing the oil and filter was not the most difficult thing in the world. If you put a 24" piece of 5/8 heater hose on the filter drain tool that comes with the filter, it drains without a big mess. Unless you don't properly insert the drain tool... You've got to make certain it goes straight in without cocking it to the side.
The only issue I had was the two little hooks on the front of the skidplate. My skidplate may get customized with a dehorning of those stupid little useless hooks. They won't keep the plate off your head, and only offer grief.
The K-D 3523 can be found on ebay for $8.79/delivered. I just ordered one, as a matter of fact. Sounds like the biggest problem for the first oil change is getting that filter housing bolt off at the bottom, since it's screwed in too tight. I was scratching my head about how that is supposed to be loosened without removing the whole filter cartridge assembly int he process, when I noticed that the drain plug is only supposed to be torqued to about 9ft-lb. There's no reason to overtighten it since it's sealed against a rubber O-ring anyway.
Follow-up question: Has anyone actually TRIED the Purolator filter with the screw-in drain tool? I don't want to spend $12 for the filter, but if the drain tool works as advertised, I'll spring for one just too keep the threaded drain tool around...
Well, I completed my first oil change today. All of the other changes have been done at the dealer until I got wise. They were using 5-30 in my truck. I guess I will see what kind of mileage I get with 0-20 Mobil.
Thanks for the excellent post. I had an issue removing the oil filter housing because it was way too tight. I got it, but it was a chore.
I will be changing my oil for the rest of the time I own this truck. It is a bear, but I don't trust my local dealer any more.
Getting the skid plate off: easy, too many damn bolts but easy.
Getting to the oil pan and draining the oil: easy.
Getting drain plug off of filter housing: easy.
Getting filter housing off: retarded level of difficulty. Screwed on so tight the 65/67mm 14 flute tool was slipping off the gripping flutes. Finally took after the whole thing with a set of big channel locks. Seriously, whom ever designed this piece of crap needs a good solid beating.
Putting everything back together: easy.
Resetting oil maint' indicator: easy.
On a side note I decided (due to hot summer temps and curiosity) to use Mobil 1 0W-30 advanced fuel economy. I want to see what affect a heavier oil has on fuel economy, and I am not sure that I trust a 0W-20 (which I couldn't find anyway) to maintain viscosity over 5000 miles of service. I have seen a few too many reports of 20W oils shearing down over time to about 10-15W viscosity. We'll see what happens.
On a side note I decided (due to hot summer temps and curiosity) to use Mobil 1 0W-30 advanced fuel economy
I have been using Mobil 1 5W-20 since 1500 miles...now have 22k. It was 115 here today, and last year we had a couple of days 120+. I change the oil every 5k miles, and never had a problem, even while towing my trailer last summer in Texas. The dip stick level drops about 1/4" between oil changes.
__________________ '07 Tundra SR5, 2WD DC, 5.7L, Salsa Red Pearl with Running Boards, Delta Toolbox.
[quote=Coal Dragger;1060927]
Getting filter housing off: retarded level of difficulty. Screwed on so tight the 65/67mm 14 flute tool was slipping off the gripping flutes. Finally took after the whole thing with a set of big channel locks. Seriously, whom ever designed this piece of crap needs a good solid beating.
quote]
See my previous post. the 65/67 is worthless. Go and get the 65mm , toss the 65/67 away. After I switched to the 65 I had NO problems with the filter.
Getting filter housing off: retarded level of difficulty. Screwed on so tight the 65/67mm 14 flute tool was slipping off the gripping flutes. Finally took after the whole thing with a set of big channel locks. Seriously, whom ever designed this piece of crap needs a good solid beating.
quote]
See my previous post. the 65/67 is worthless. Go and get the 65mm , toss the 65/67 away. After I switched to the 65 I had NO problems with the filter.
I'll find a strait 65mm and get rid of the 65/67. It is worthless as you stated.
I epoxied the drain cap ( where the 3/8's socket fits ) into the housing. Now its easy to get off with a 3/8 ratchet and 3 inch extention. Sure it is a little more messy, but hey, 5 min job now.
I finally got around to changing my oil for the first time this morning, and it was pretty easy actually. Here's a few tips:
1) Taking off the skid plate screws - use a 10mm nut driver. It's much easier than finding a big ol' honkin' #0 phillips.
2) The dreaded "draining the oil filter housing". The factory tool DOES snap in pretty authoritatively, but there's a catch: It starts the oil flowing before it's fully snapped in, and using one hand to push the tool into place will likely not work. After wiping the oil off that had run down my arm, I regrouped. Here's what I think will work best: Lay with your head towards the passenger side tire. I held the drain tool with both hands, the thumb of each hand on the bottom rim. I curled the three outside fingers of my right hand around the stabilizer bar for more leverage. Now push forcefully - and evenly - up with both thumbs and it should click into place. Make sure the O-ring from the drain bolt is on the plastic tool.
Otherwise, I had no problems. I have two low-profile plastic ramps that I drove the front wheels up on for extra clearance. Replaced the drain bolt with a Fumoto valve, so that's a done deal. The drain bolt on the filter housing came off easily; the filter housing was a little tough but seemed torqued OK as well. I think the O-ring swells up a little over time, and most of the torque was overcoming the friction the O-ring provided. As others have said - make sure you pay attention to the O-ring location on the filter housing, but that's a no-brainer IMO. I did end up using a torque wrench to tighten the housing, but I think you could skip this step pretty easily. You can tell when the housing bottoms out, so just a little more pressure ought to do it. No need to torque it down super tight, as the O-ring will keep everything from leaking.
And to reiterate: Go to ebay and order one of the KD oil filter wrenches. I paid $8.90/delivered, and the thing fit on the housing super tight. There was no way it would have slipped.
[ETA] Cost for the change: (1) 5qt bottle of 5W-20 Motorcraft, $10.36. (2) 1 qt. bottles, $2.48/ea = $15.32+tax, then add in the oil filter - that's less than $20.
Man what a great post. Was doing my 3rd oil change after the dealer did the first one. I guess i tightened the filter housing too tight last time and couldnt get it off. Ended up busting it (realized this when i turned the key and oil went everywhere). Had to order a new housing ($40 plust $30 overnight). Took me forever to get the housing out, had to carefully bust the plastic to get it out. Then to top it off, couldnt get the light to reset. Hadnt had a prob before, in fact my wife had been the one in the truck reseting it. The book says to have it on ODO not trip A. I think my whole problem was that I wasnt drink a beer as usual. Thanks again.
Is the oil drain plug gasket a paper gasket or is it copper and reusable? If it needs to be changed during the oil change, are the gaskets only available from the dealer?
Is the oil drain plug gasket a paper gasket or is it copper and reusable?
It is a fiber gasket, available at the dealer. You could probably by a copper gasket at a parts store if you want one of those. The oil filter element comes with new "O" rings.
__________________ '07 Tundra SR5, 2WD DC, 5.7L, Salsa Red Pearl with Running Boards, Delta Toolbox.
I haven't checked this thread in a while but see most folks are still doing it the factory recommended way.
As I posted months ago, if you cut a 4-5" hole in the skid plate under the filter, you can remove the filter just like any other spin on filter just by using the 65mm wrench and not draining the filter first. I use the wrench with a 6" extension and long arm ratchet which clears the hole. ALL of the oil drains trough the hole. Its no messier than dropping a conventional filter. Oil changes are now a 15 minute job.
YMMV
Follow-up question: Has anyone actually TRIED the Purolator filter with the screw-in drain tool? I don't want to spend $12 for the filter, but if the drain tool works as advertised, I'll spring for one just too keep the threaded drain tool around...
Yeup, I only use Purolator filters in my vehicles. The drain tool works like a charm, no pressure required...just screw it in a few turns. Part way through the drain I screwed it in completely to see if there was a flow difference...there wasn't, so don't waste your time. I only wish Purolator was offering the cartridge in its 'Micro Perf' material. For $12 it should be in that material!
__________________ ---Michael---
2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L DCRB Limited 4x2 TRD - Slate/RedRock
Performance: TRD intake and exhaust; Hellwig adj. rear swaybar; Interior: Door sill protectors, WeatherTech liners, All-weather mats, Bedrug; Exterior: Truxedo Deuce bed cover, Spare tire lock; Mods: Shaved emblems
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
You've got to make certain it goes straight in without cocking it to the side.
'07 Tundra SR5, 2WD DC, 5.7L, Salsa Red Pearl with Running Boards, Delta Toolbox.
Linear Mode
