hi all
can someone please tell me what is the size of allen socket wrench to remove the front differential drain/fill plug for 2001 tundra 4.7. and also can i use one type of grease( like mobil 1) for the proppeler shaft from end to end.
thanks and i appreciate the help.
Hi Kris. You are in the wrong area of the site (this is 2007 and later). Create a post in the forum applicable to your Gen of Tundra and I am sure there will plenty of helpful responses. FYI - this is an engine oil change thread.
__________________ ---Michael---
2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L DCRB Limited 4x2 TRD - Slate/RedRock
Performance: TRD intake and exhaust; Hellwig adj. rear swaybar; Interior: Door sill protectors, WeatherTech liners, All-weather mats, Bedrug; Exterior: Truxedo Deuce bed cover, Spare tire lock; Mods: Shaved emblems
Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the drain plug from the housing that holds the filter cartridge? The dealer changed my oil once - and I haven't been able to remove it separately since then. I've been afraid to do anything too drastic and break the plastic housing by mistake. Thanks.
LEAVE IT !!!! You can just use an extension and ratchet to remove the oil filter housing. No more end wrench woes. I know guys that purposly glued that drain plug into the housing just for that purpose.
__________________ Black 2007 D/C Limited 4x4, seems to have ALL the options, Flowmaster Dual Delta 40's, K&N drop in filter, Rhino Liner', 3" frt 1" rear Daystar leveling kit, BFG Radial All Terrain TA's 305x65x18, Moto Metal M0951's in Chrome 18x9. Fully DeBadged , Stebel horn, C/W grill, TRD Swaybar, Wet O's, Craven Speed Stubby Antenna, 10,000 lb winch, H11 bulbs, Production date 8/07
"CBTMA Member" all that is remaining is:
Black Mod Headlights 1997 Chevy Tahoe Sport 4x4 2008 Sequoia Ltd. Slate Metallic (purchased on 3/28/09)
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The MARINES don't have that problem." President Ronald Reagan 1985
Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the drain plug from the housing that holds the filter cartridge?
When you pull the filter housing cap, put it in a vise and use a breaker bar. The dealership (during the 1st free oil change) seemed to use a friggin' impact gun on my drain pan and oil filter drain bolts too. I had to use a pipe extension on the ratchet to get my oil pan bolt off! Luckily they didn't strip the threads or crush the pan.
Yet another example of why NOT to use the dealership, regardless of "free" offerings. There may be some good mechanics in the dealership realm, but I have failed to encounter any of them. Knowing what pool (Tech School) they locally pull from makes the situation even worse.
__________________ ---Michael---
2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L DCRB Limited 4x2 TRD - Slate/RedRock
Performance: TRD intake and exhaust; Hellwig adj. rear swaybar; Interior: Door sill protectors, WeatherTech liners, All-weather mats, Bedrug; Exterior: Truxedo Deuce bed cover, Spare tire lock; Mods: Shaved emblems
The fuss is over that STUPID oil filter and skidplate....I love changing my oil...its a no brainer...
__________________ Black 2007 D/C Limited 4x4, seems to have ALL the options, Flowmaster Dual Delta 40's, K&N drop in filter, Rhino Liner', 3" frt 1" rear Daystar leveling kit, BFG Radial All Terrain TA's 305x65x18, Moto Metal M0951's in Chrome 18x9. Fully DeBadged , Stebel horn, C/W grill, TRD Swaybar, Wet O's, Craven Speed Stubby Antenna, 10,000 lb winch, H11 bulbs, Production date 8/07
"CBTMA Member" all that is remaining is:
Black Mod Headlights 1997 Chevy Tahoe Sport 4x4 2008 Sequoia Ltd. Slate Metallic (purchased on 3/28/09)
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The MARINES don't have that problem." President Ronald Reagan 1985
I just changed the oil on my RCSB 5.7 at 4,000 miles. Because of info like the instructions on this forum, the job was fairly easy. It wouldn't have been so easy otherwise. First, the skid plate was a little awkward but it the complaints seem overrated. I didn't have any trouble removing or re-installing it other than the time working with the excessive number of screws and bolts. The picture showing which holes that the "hooked brackets" fit into was very helpful for the re-install. The statements that the oil drains quickly towards the passenger side tire/wheel and makes a mess are understatements. The oil covered my tire with oil!! The next time I do this, I'm going to cover the tire with a plastic bag or something.
Some have said that the oil drain plug (bolt) doesn't have a washer but there is a fiber washer that stayed stuck to the oil pan. Mine was in good shape so I re-used it but I may change it next time. I used a Purolator filter purchased from Pep Boys that came with a “screw on” oil filter drain. It worked good to easily drain the filter assembly. Next, removing the filter housing requires a good filter wrench. The KD tools wrench worked well but I had to tap it into place because it fit pretty tightly. I don't know how anyone could remove the housing with a plastic tool because I had to apply quite a bit of force to break it free (get the KD tools #3253 or equivalent). With the filter removed from the housing, I saw some small metallic particles but they were extremely hard to clean from the filter housing. The filter slips over a perforated tube that is held in place by brackets on the bottom of the housing. The metallic particles under the bracket were a living hell to get to. Another problem was that the holes in the perforated tube were not machined smooth so small pieces of the filter broke loose when I slipped on the new filter. I cleaned these as best that I could but a dealer certainly wouldn't take the time to do this. Consequently, the particles would probably cycle through your engine at least once until they burn up or are caught by the filter after they're circulated. This is a ridiculous design idea. It may be better for the environment, but it's at the expense of the protection to your truck’s engine.
Anyway, the assembly went back together pretty easy and I filled the truck with Pennzoil Platinum. By the way, I don't particularly like Walmart, but the oil there is much cheaper than anywhere else that I've found (another fact that I learned in these forums). I got the Pennzoil for about $4.00 per quart vs about $6.99 everywhere else I looked (Mobil 1 was much cheaper there too but I've had good luck with Pennzoil in the past).
All in all, the job took me about 1.5 hours and will only take about 0.5 hours next time now that I know what to expect.
Hi everyone, I asked my wife to take my truck and get the oil changed at our normal place (not the dealer). They changed the oil but not the filter. They didn't have one and they told her it wouldn't be a big deal. I didn't want to go to the dealer because I took the carbon filter off and I didn't want to glue it back on just for an oil change. Other then adding the filter my self, What do you guy's think I should do?
Hi everyone, I asked my wife to take my truck and get the oil changed at our normal place (not the dealer). They changed the oil but not the filter. They didn't have one and they told her it wouldn't be a big deal. I didn't want to go to the dealer because I took the carbon filter off and I didn't want to glue it back on just for an oil change. Other then adding the filter my self, What do you guy's think I should do?
Weiser
This is why I don't use those quick lube places. Why bother changing the oil if not the filter?? I wouldn't wait another 5k miles before draining and changing the filter. It's easy to do. Do it yourself or go to the dealer. They aren't going to look in your airbox to do an oil change.
__________________
2007 Crewmax 4x4 Limited - Silver
2.5" OME Front Lift w/Toytec 1" Diff Drop
1" Toytec Block rear w/Bilstein 5100 shocks
20" Ultra Mammoth Wheels
305/55/R20 Toyo Open Country A/T
Line-X Bed Liner
Undercover Tonneau
Console Vault
Two car seats and a box full of princess toys!
CBTMA Member
After reading through this entire thread, nobody had an answer as to why it was designed this way. Why does the 4.7L have a spin-on filter. Is it just because there isn't enough room for the spin-on or is the cartridge type actually better. I've got the old gen Tundra and it is possible to change the filter without pulling the skidplate off, but I take it off anyway, it's just much easier. Plus I can inspect things while it's off and clean the bottom of the radiator.
It was designed this way because it's allegedly friendlier for the environment. There seems to be a faction of folks in Washington DC that think spin-on oil filters are the undoing of modern civilization because landfills are full of them. What they missed is that now there will be oil streaks in every DIY oil changer's driveway. That can't be good for the environment. Not to mention the used elements are still disposed of but now allowing direct contact with the rest of the garbage trash folks before the landfill. I've not had a vehicle that leaves more oil spill and clean-up after an oil change than the new Tundra. Always wear old clothes and some good hand cream or exam gloves are nice to wear during the process.
If you find a washer in your oil filter kit it was probably put there by your friendly dealer parts guy. It may look like metal but it is in fact a fiber crush washer for your oil pan drain plug. I have run into two different Toyota dealers that throw one in the box automatically. Usually one will work for a few oil changes but I change it anyway if they include it. I've asked parts guys for them and they've usually thrown one in for free if asked.
I always put my Tundra up on ramps (2 pair, under all 4 tires) before doing an oil change. I tried a normal oil change pan the first time and will never do that again. I now use a 5-gallon paint bucket propped up on a cinder block for the drainage so as to keep the oil from shooting into the front passenger-side tire. By having it up close and personal with the drain plug there is only a bit of adjusting to keep the oil in the bucket as the drain stream changes, including the last bit of "drip by" down the oil pan. No need to remove your front wheel or design special shields to keep the environmental hazard to a minimum.
Don't even try to use a combo 65/67mm oil filter wrench on the element housing. It will not work. Neither will a plastic wrench. Just use a straight 65mm metal version as previously mentioned by other posters. I bought one on ebay and it's hard to find a straight 65mm metal wrench at my local AutoZone or Checker.
As far as removing the filter drain nut, crisply pound on the end of your ratchet a few times to break it loose. Effectively you have created a human-powered impact wrench that breaks it loose without turning the whole filter housing. If you apply slow pressure it won't break loose and you'll turn the whole housing. StatCoder and myself have mentioned this method in previous posts. StatCoder went farther by saying to use a hammer on the end of your ratchet or breakover bar (better way and saves the carpal tunnel syndrome in your wrists).
The skid plate is not a big deal once you read the fine points of the original posting. It has to be shifted toward the driver's side to dislodge the keeper ears. Installation is reversed. I like the keeper ears as they allow me to install the skid plate without having to press it up in place until a bolt is started.
The whole process is a bit of a PITA but gets easier with time. After my experiences at my local Toyota dealer I wouldn't even consider a fast-lube oil change house for a Tundra oil change. I'm doing it myself for the foreseeable future.
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mhadden, your write-up was excellent and guided me seamlessly through the process!! Thanks!
Some thoughts:
This was my first oil change ever. I balanced the “I have never done this before.” with “Don’t trust anyone else to change the oil if you want it done right!” comments. I wanted it done right and looked at it as a challenge.
The skid plate was relatively easy, working from front to back is the key, taking out the middle bolt towards the rear last. I held the skid up with my forearm as I removed the last bolt.
Draining the oil from the pan was easy too. I cut a 2 liter pop bottle bottom off and stuck it under the drain once I got the plug loose; this helped to guide the oil into my catch pan. Takes a long time to drain! Put plug back in and tightened up. The fiberglass crush washer will need to be replaced next time? I will just in case.
The filter, oh the filter; bought a replacement from my Toyota dealer, came with all the parts, seals, filter and plastic thingy. When I undid the drain for the filter assembly no oil came out. I figure how much oil can be in this filter anyway? LOTS!!!! Tried to jam the plastic thingy in wouldn’t go, but oil came out to my surprise. I thought the thingy would need to be seated before oil would come out, not so. Finally, after most of the oil had drained down my arm I realized you need to go straight in and hard (sounds dirty, cause it is), but by this time most of the oil had run down into my shirt. Next time I will get the Purolator filter cause it comes with a better thingy! Got the filter assembly off with 65mm metal flute, no issues; dropped a new filter in the assembly and put it all back together with the new seals.
Filled the truck with the prescribed amount of oil, started it, ran it for 3 mins, ran it up to 3000rpm for about 5 seconds, no leaks. Put the skid back on. I worked from front to back to front. Used my knee to support the back of the skid while I guided the front in, and then moved to the back, put the middle bolt in. Don’t tighten it down tight, line up the other bolts first and get them started then crank them tight.
Lastly I used 2 2X10’s under each front wheel to give me and my catch bucket a little more room.
Anyways, first oil change ever, took me an hour and a half and I was a bit dirty but it got done. Next time it will go a lot smoother I am sure. THANKS OP!!!
Used Mobil 1 5W20, seems to run a bit cooler, but I also could be crazy.
Last edited by Go Flames Go; 10-20-2008 at 02:27 PM.
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
Luckily they didn't strip the threads or crush the pan. 
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