I purchased the KD 3253 at ToolSource.com.
Its on the way.
The Penzoil 65/67 cap wrench slipped when I did oil change #1.
So I bought this one for oil change #2.
I went to this site to check on this part and I came across this Toyota Oil Filter Wrench TOY 640 / 09228-06501 - 64mm - Assenmacher TOY 640
It appears its a OEM Toyo Tool and the size is only 1 mm smaller @64 mm in lieu of 65mm. Should I purchase this one instead? It costs more at $16.00.
Any ideas?
Thanks
what about the drain plug gasket? How come it isn't mentioned? Is it required with 5.7?
You can reused the gasket half a dozen times. It's a synthetic fiber washer. However, I usually have a dealer throw one in if I buy a filter element from them. I have never had one turn me down but if they do I think they're less than a buck from trdsparks.com, so if you order a filter from them the shipping is free.
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"The beauty of the second amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it." -- Thomas Jefferson
dipstick has 2 notches, one side extruded and other side intruded. On the extruded side oil falls between both notches, but on the intruded side its slightly over top notch. Which side is supposed to be used to measure oil fill?
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08 Sequoia SR5, nautical blue, 5.7 V8, tow pkg
I would just check based on which side happens to come up when you pull the dipstick. The difference in actual oil level between intruded and extruded sides will be small and not worth worrying about.
Just changed mine for the 2nd time today at 5,700 miles, in my garage, 25F outside and snowing. Spillied a little more than last time LOL about 1/2 quart.
Otherwise went real well, Used Mobil 1 0-20w, Toyota filter. When removing the bolt for the drain valve on the filter housing, give it a quick jerk with your wrench so it breaks loose and does not just spin the whole housing. I used petrolium jelly to lube up the big O-ring, you dont want that thing to bind up and get stuck, tearing it or deforming it. This is the biggest cause for leaks, that or improper placement of the O-ring.
And yes the skid plate is no fun!! Taking the thing off and putting it on is 1/2 hour right there. If you had a lift and power tools it would be 15 min.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
And yes the skid plate is no fun!! Taking the thing off and putting it on is 1/2 hour right there. If you had a lift and power tools it would be 15 min.
I thought the skid plate was a breeze! I had one side jacked up when I removed it, but had the truck completely on the ground when I re-installed it. No probs here. That damn plastic device for draining the oil filter, on the other hand....
I thought the skid plate was a breeze! I had one side jacked up when I removed it, but had the truck completely on the ground when I re-installed it. No probs here. That damn plastic device for draining the oil filter, on the other hand....
I got it off and on without trouble just time consuming and laying under the truck is never really fun. Plus with the diff drop I have the 3 rear skid plate bolts have spacers that I have to install, so another step.
Yeah the drain valve device gave me some trouble this time, first time I did it the thing worked perfect, this time I had a hard time getting it in and it did not fully drain the canister.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
Just did my first oil change today at work and I must say it was pretty darn easy. This post definately helped, but was not as hard as I was worried about. I used the 65/67MM wrench from Walmart and cutting a 1/2 inch off the top would help. Also my truck took 8quarts for some reason, and I did double check to make sure, it is not overfull. The skid plate was not hard at all either, took me maybe 15 mins total to get it on and off.
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
, stubby antenna, partially debadged, PIAA Fog/Headlights, billet grill combo, 20% tint, Garmin GPS, Volant CAI.
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Modified Pioneer sealed sub box, MTX Audio TT 6510-04 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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