I want to think you for the trouble you went to to provide first time owners of a Tundra, like myself, with the instructions and photos you provided to do an oil change. It would have taken me a lot longer if I had not come across your posting. Everything you said was true. It was the messiest oil change that I have every done! I had oil all over the right wheel, my arm, and the garage floor. I have a couple of thoughts on how to improve my next oil change but it will still be a pain in the butt!
I just changed my oil for the second time. It was really no more difficult than any other vehicle now that I've discovered a few short cuts from this thread, and past experience. First, the engine cover is really not hard to remove or install at all once you figure out how it attaches to the truck. Second, everyone should buy a Purolator filter at least once to get the threaded oil filter drain tool rather than the Toyota version. With the Purolator tool, you can control the flow rate and eliminate the need for applying excessive pressure, attaching a hose to direct the flow, etc. The Toyota filter is cheaper from the dealer by me, but, as I said, the Purolator purchase for my first oil change was worth the money just to get the tool. Last, the mess when removing the oil drain plug can be avoided by not removing the plug completely until the flow rate slows down a bit. I removed the plug completely right away during my first oil change and the oil sprayed all over the passenger tire. This time I delayed removing the plug completely for a few seconds. As a result, all of the oil went into the pan with no mess. Overall, the job was pretty easy this time.
I have a 2008 Tundra 5.7 Double Cab (2WD). I just changed my oil for the first time, without spilling a drop. I used a Fram filter, which also has the plastic tool. The key is the tool snaps into place and seals onto the o-ring (see pictures). When I removed the filter housing (using a KD tools #3253 wrench), it only had maybe 1/2 teaspoon of oil inside.
i just did my first oil change on my 08 RCSB 2wd 5.7l i wish i would have checked here first. i had to go to 4 different auto parts stores to get the proper tool. NAPA, AUTOZONE, Oriley's,TOYOTA Dealership did not have the 65mmx14 tool. only the 65/67mm the combo tool just kept slipping. i returned it and checked at ADVANCED and they had a metal 65mmx14 flute oil filter wrench. once i found the proper tools and got stared i followed all the instructions as per this thread and didnt spill a drop. THANKS GUYS for all the help.
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-2008 Tundra RCSB 5.7L Super White w/ Graphite Interior
SR5 Sport Appearance Package 6spd, Debadged, 5% tint on windows, 40%windshield, K&N Drop in Filter,HC mod,CravenSpeed Antenna
-2002 Ford F150 Supercrew 5.4L Triton V8 layin frame on 22's
-2006 Yamaha R6 Blue, power commander,3"drop,20K HIDs
I did my first oil change, read this thread and saved some agravation. I also knew to wear gloves...
NOw, the question, what is with the oil filter cover? It fits extremely tight.
It took 5 turns to get it off, 3 of which I still needed the filter wrench to make 1/4 turns at a time using every muscle I could find. I could only put 4 1/4 turns back on, not quite sealing it against the metal housing. Thankfully, the truck doesn't leak oil, but it took all I had to get it that far. I know I am not the strongest man in the world, but I can torque things to 200 ft/lbs, just didn't think I'd need that much to take an oil filter on and off.
NO I didn't cross thread it and this was my first oil change so the removal should have been like any other, break it loose and hand loosen the rest of the way.
My last issue is that part of the transfer case looks cracked to me, but it could be casting marks. I still need to take a picture and post it for comparison.
For those of you not wanting to order the 65mm oil filter end cap to remove the filter cover. Go buy the cheapo 65/67mm from walmart or any local auto parts store. When you try to remove the oil filter housing, chances are it will spin and not fit properly.
Some people have order a special 65mm from ebay. Others have used hose clamps or made cuts in the plastic one from walmart.
None of this is necessary, I bought a 65/67mm one from advanced autoparts today and just like everyone else's, it slipped and would not grab hold. It is just a little too loose. All you have to do is get a paper towel and put it between the filter housing and the end cap removal tool. It is just enough to make a snug fit and makes it simple to remove the housing. No need to special order a part from toyota or anything, just a cheap old paper towel will do the trick.
Oil Filter End Cap tool = $4.99
Paper towel = $0.05
I went to the Sears Torque wrench link on the above post. After reading some of the reviews on them I would not purchase one. Several of the posts say that the locking rings that hold the adjustable handles on break or fail, rendering it useless. Also, it has only a one year warranty.
I don't mean to stomp on your post, just my observation. I will likely get one that has better reviews for more longevity.
Since Kame-a-part and Sears combined Sears quality sucks big time. Craftsmen tools no longer are lifetime warrantied.
2005 Rockwood 26' 5'er, Michelin LTX MS tires, 270 watts of solar on the roof, 4 T-105 golf cart batteries, Xentrex converter, Outback FX2012T inverter/charger.
If you can't take it with ya, why bother with an RV!
2000 Tundra (bought 9/9/99)
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Just had mine changed at a local Tire Service Center I have been using for years . Took 2 gallons of Amsoil their along with a Wix oil filter . 28.00 later oil change and 4 wheel tire rotation , can't beat that .
Thank you for the Great information. I believe this will be a breeze now I have read this. But I still can't understand why any engineer would put such a hard to change oil filter in an automoble. Oh, I forget they don't do ther own. How could I have forgotten that. (A person has to laugh at some of the things we see today).
Just had mine changed at a local Tire Service Center I have been using for years . Took 2 gallons of Amsoil their along with a Wix oil filter . 28.00 later oil change and 4 wheel tire rotation , can't beat that .
Invaluable post. I cannot believe that Toyota does not explain this in the owners manual.
I was expecting the worst after reading all of the posts about oil changes on the 5.7. I just did mine for the first time - one hour, 10 minutes. Probably could be much faster now that I know my way around.
No problems. No issues. Actually, it was pretty straightforward after reading this and going in understanding what needs to be done.
I BARELY had enough room in my 5 gallon bucket - it started out at half full and my math said that 7.4 qts would fill it nearly to the top...and it did!
Used Mobil-1 0W20. I wish that it was available in the gallon containers. The quart-by-quart approach took about as long as it did to drain & put back together.
Not much to add other than what has already been said. I did jack the front slightly to allow for a standard 5 gallon bucket to snug up near the drain plug. That allowed for no spray, no spill, no mess. Tilted the whole truck towards the drain as well - to get as much oil out as possible.
Thanks for all of the pointers.
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2008 Tundra SR5 DoubleCab 4x4 - Salsa Red/Graphite
20" Alcoa Wheels | 285/55/20 BFG AT/KO Tires
Bilstein 5100 Shocks | Front at lowest setting
Borla Cat-Back Exhaust
Line-X with XTRA - Black
Chrome Door Handles
Weathertech Floor Liners - Black
TRD Sport Pedals
TRD Shift Lever
Toyota/AMP Bed Extender
35% Front Tint
P3 Trailer Brake Controller
Future
TRD CAI or TRD Supercharger (looking for a deal)
Excellent Post. I've changing my own oil for years & needed help with the first time on my Tundra. I appreciate the time & effort you took to post this information
This is a great post! I sucessfully completed my first oil change because of this post and it was very easy to reference with pictures. Thank you.
A couple of opinions:
Get the metal oil wrench from Toyota. I spent 3 hours going back and forth to Kragen, Autozone, Wal-Mart etc. looking for the 65mm wrench. The first one I bought was a Fram 67-65mm wrench from Wal-Mart. It would grab a little, but just spinned most of the time. I thought that maybe it was because it was the 67-65 thing, so I went to Kragen. They didn't have anything so I went to Autozone. I bought a 65mm wrench there only to find it did the same thing. I finally went to the dealer and bought the 65mm wrench and it doesn't bother me that I spent a little more money to get the right tool. I've read posts about adding paper towells for a snug fit and what not, but I'd rather get the right tool and torque it knowing it's done properly.
Also, I did not take out the oil filter drain gasket off when inserting the drain plug. It makes sense that it would be easier if it were off so I will do it next time.
I also found the TRD filter at the dealership which in my opinion is worth the extra money. Go check it out if you haven't yet.
Good luck to those of you who are about to dive in. It's not that hard so don't get discouraged by the number of steps, just make sure you get the right tools in the first place.