Did my oil last night along with engine and cabin air filters. was easy...except for that stupid 65-67mm wrench. a paper towel did not work, i hacksawed the 67mm outer ring off, then the 65 seemed too tight, i couldn't get it on the filter housing without banging it with a rubber mallet a few times...then it stuck on there good....how much for the good tool to remove the housing? i'll pay.
oh, and when i removed my oil filter drain plug, it was on so tight that the whole housing started spinning off...and that is from the dealer....
and i'm missing one of the wood screws that holds the front of the skidplate on...nice wood screws toyota!
but considering that i just bought it on wednesday, it is already in a lot better shape than when i found it!
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Does anyone know the part no. (or where to otherwise obtain a suitable replacement) for the plastic holders that the skid plate screws go into?
I was careful with them as suggested by the original post in this thread (excellent DIY BTW) but one was broken when I took the screw out and a couple of others don't look to be long for this world. It looks like they were over-tightened from the factory.
Thanks for any help. Sorry if this has been covered but I wasn't able to find it.
Does anyone know the part no. (or where to otherwise obtain a suitable replacement) for the plastic holders that the skid plate screws go into?
I was careful with them as suggested by the original post in this thread (excellent DIY BTW) but one was broken when I took the screw out and a couple of others don't look to be long for this world. It looks like they were over-tightened from the factory.
Thanks for any help. Sorry if this has been covered but I wasn't able to find it.
I broke down and bought the OEM parts because I found the jobber parts did not fit / accept the screws the same way.
The key to making the OEM plastic bits last is:
1. Do not over tighten. Hand tighten with a nut driver only.
2. When cutting threads in a brand new plastic holder, cut the thread once only. Do not cross thread when reinstalling the screws after the next oil change is done. The key is to get the screw to reuse the originally cut threads without recutting new threads. This is because every time you recut more threads, more of the plastic gets shredded until no plastic remains. To do this, touch the screw loosely into the holder, then turn the screw carefully backward (CCW) until you feel it pop down into the holder. At this instant you have found the original thread. Then tighten (CW).
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Thanks. Do you happen to have a part number or the official name of these pieces?
2nd'd I thought I was really careful with the disassembly but as I was putting the plate back up, 2 little dink-dink's later, I had plastic pieces fall in my nose.
Also, the oil-cap tool that I originally bought, 65mmx14 did absolutely not work. I measured with my micrometer and sure enough, the tool was indeed, 65mmx14. Measuring the plastic oil cap, that was 65.4mm (2.575" per the micrometer). Going to autozone, I found "Oil Filter "F" Cap Wrench 25404" @ $5.99 . The autozone part number appears to be #153161. I measured it with the micrometer before I bought it, and it was 2.570" (~65.28mm) and it fit MUUCH better than the 65mm wrench. I dont know what kind of grease toyo used, but I had to paper-towel this cap wrench to break the seal, then the tool worked quite well. If you don't have the Toyo part or other known good cap wrench, this one worked well for me.
Attempted first oil change on an '07 Tundra I purchased used today. Was never able to get the filter housing to unscrew. Whoever owned it before had broken off a small section of the housing and it was screwed on so tight nothing I tried would get it off. Went ahead and switched out the oil, and will need to take it to dealer next time to get the filter changed. My question is "WHY?" What possible advantage does this type of oil filter offer over the traditional and much easier screw on canister. Seems like this is nothing more than an attempt to force more and more of us "do it yourselfers" into the dealership. I'd appreciate any insight as to any other reason for using this design as opposed to the screw on Canister that 99% of vehicles manufactured today use.
I dunno, this was the cleanest oil change I ever performed. It was also one of the easiest when I finally got the proper tool. The little screw-on tool + a length of some aquarium hose, and I didn't spill a drop. When the tools are right, this is a breeze. When you don't have the right tools, or the previous oil changer munged something up, yeah, I can see where it can be a pain.
Please clarify: Is the screw on plastic tool, the device that comes with the Purolator filter?
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2007 Tundra DC 5.7L 4x4 Limited, Timberland Mica, 20" Wheels, NAV, Bed Liner, Run Boards, aFe CAI, Borla Dual-Side Exhaust Craftec Tonneau Cover, Dawn Enterprises Lower Body Side Molding
Last edited by wintergreen; 10-16-2009 at 04:36 PM.
I cut a 6x6 square. Re installed it with a hinge and a sheet metal screw. Easy access now! I also used lock tite on the filter drain plug. Now I insert a long extension in the filter housing and it comes right out with minimal mess !
__________________ Black 2007 D/C Limited 4x4, seems to have ALL the options, Flowmaster Dual Delta 40's, K&N drop in filter, Rhino Liner', 3" frt 1" rear Daystar leveling kit, BFG Radial All Terrain TA's 305x65x18, Moto Metal M0951's in Chrome 18x9. Fully DeBadged , Stebel horn, C/W grill, TRD Swaybar, Wet O's, Craven Speed Stubby Antenna, 10,000 lb winch, H11 bulbs, Production date 8/07
"CBTMA Member" all that is remaining is:
Black Mod Headlights 1997 Chevy Tahoe Sport 4x4 2008 Sequoia Ltd. Slate Metallic (purchased on 3/28/09)
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The MARINES don't have that problem." President Ronald Reagan 1985
Skid plate wasn't too bad. I was surprised to find the skid plate since I have a 4x2. I guess the Texas Edition comes with one. Filter drain plug was way too tight. I ended up turning the entire housing loose, which wasn't so bad, because my 65mm wrench would NOT go on. I was able to change the large O-ring on the filter, but not the small one. Purolator Filter was $11.00. When re-installed the filter housing, The filter drain plug came loose! So I was then able to change out the small drain O-ring. Time spent : Little more than an hour.
Thx mhadden for the Directions. What I learned from the first change on my 2010: raise the vehicle, -not enough room under there to turn my head; dont kick the plastic retainers for the skid plate screws across the garage floor when they pop out of their seat; DAMN, thats alot of oil! -need to get a bigger pan; the 65/67 wrench slips; -need to cut it or get a better one; have a few on hand, -its a good 2 beer job. Overall it was not bad, just different; and it will be much quicker next time.
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics.
Do you happen to have a part number or the official name of these pieces?
Linear Mode
