You’re my hero. My project this evening will be sooooo much easier now. Thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed description and pics.
Two quick questions:
Did your dealer have the filter in stock or did you order it?
Did you use a piece of hose on the "tool" as it shows in the PDF? (I wunder if this would have made this step a little less messy)
Due to a somewhat overwhelming demand, I'm posting a how-to with pics. Hopefully this answer questions about the oil changes. Keep in mind that this is for 5.7. The 4.7 will have the canister filter and will be a helluva lot easier to change. Not sure if the oil filter is in a different location on the 4.7's, either.
Disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable, do not perform this maintenance by yourself. Contact your local dealership for service. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after this procedure.
The tools that you’ll need:
3/8” socket wrench
3” 3/8” extension
10 mm socket (or Phillips screwdriver)
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
65/67 mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-38020
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20
First thing you’ll need to do is remove the skid plate, if you have one. There are 3 screws (holes identified in yellow) that have Phillips ends, but you can use the 10 mm socket since it’ll be easier and there are 5 2” long bolts (identified by red) holding the skid up. Use your 12 mm socket with extension to get these loose. It’s probably better to remove the front 3 screws and work your way back as the bolts will help hold the skid up until you are ready to remove. I couldn’t get a picture of what to do to remove the skid, but once all bolts are out, you’ll need to push the whole skid up and slide it towards the driver side. Then release and it should come down. Be careful not to whack yourself in the head with the thing…it’s a little heavy.
Once you remove the skid, you’ll need to identify where the oil filter (in yellow) and bulk oil drain bolt (in red) are located. I’ve indicated them as pictured above.
You’ll need a 14 mm socket to loosen the oil drain bolt. I use it to break it loose, and then I unscrew it with my hand. Get ready for a mess! Make sure you have your oil pan more towards the front wheel as the oil will shoot that way. Take a break by drinking a beer or whatever; it’ll take some time for the 7 quarts of oil to drain. Once the oil is dripping out of the hole, hand tighten the bolt back into the hole, taking care not to cross-thread the bolt. Then use the 14 mm socket to tighten.
Use your 3/8” extension to loosen the oil filter drain bolt. Don’t worry; very little oil will come out when you remove the bolt. Above is what it’ll look like with the bolt removed. You will have to use that plastic “tool” to help drain the oil out of the filter area. I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with. I had to push up (and hard!) to get the oil to come out. Even after pushing up and having the oil drain for 5 minutes I still didn’t get it all. It would have been a lot easier if the sway bar wasn’t so close to the filter location.
After you attempt to drain all the oil out of the filter, wipe the area off with a rag. Make sure you don’t damage the oil filter drain gasket if you plan on using it again (I did). Then using your 65/67 mm 14 flute oil wrench and 3/8” extension, twist the cap off. Once you turn it a couple times you’ll be able to twist it by hand…be prepared for more oil! Drop the whole assembly into your oil pan as it’ll make it easier to clean your hand and the area around the oil filter assembly. Once you have the truck portion cleaned up, remove the old oil filter that remains on the lower assembly and replace it with the new one. They should just pull off and push on. If you plan to change the gasket, do it now. Twist the lower assembly that holds the filter on taking care not to cross-thread. Then use your oil filter wrench to twist it tight. Make sure to put your oil filter drain bolt back on (make sure the gasket it on the lower assembly, then put the bolt on). Once everything is tight, fill your engine up with the motor oil of your choice and check your oil level on the dipstick. I used 7 quarts and it put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the empty and fill portion of the dipstick, which is where I like it. Made it easier not to use half a quart too…
Start your engine after filling and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Make sure you oil pressure is in the operating range. Check for leaks.
You’ll need to put the skid back on now. It’s not as bad as everyone says it is. Above are the holes you’ll need to align the hooks of the skid with. Make sure to have the plastic tabs of the front bumper overlapping the skid, otherwise the skid won’t go back into place. Then using the reverse process of removal, hand install the rear bolts into the skid, working your way forward taking care not to cross-thread the bolts. Then tighten the bolts. Finally tighten the screws; watch not to over tighten the screws as it’ll strip the plastic holders on the skid (which can be replaced if you do happen to strip them).
To reset your maintenance reminder system (even if the light hasn’t come on yet), you’ll need to turn your key to on (but don’t start!) and make sure your odometer is on TRIP A. Then key off. Press and hold the Odometer/Trip button. While holding down on the button, key the ignition to on (Don’t start the engine!) The display panel will count down from “------“ to “-“Continue pressing the button until the Trip A is displayed. After this step, you are done. Drink a couple beers for a job well done!
can't see pics......???
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PLAYA...aka PFC
A person who wants to do something, will find a way...A person who doesn't, will find an EXCUSE!!!
How much did each of the items below cost and in my manual it says to use 5w-30?
65/67 mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-38020
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20
Anyone else finding the resemblance between this truck and mercedes and bmw? Sucks in some ways. Like that oil filter, I know bmw uses a similar system . The fully electric gas pedal feature various onboard computer systems etc.
The oil filter kit was $6.35 after tax from my local dealer. 7 Quarts of 5W20 I got at Walmart for $29 and some change. The plastic oil filter wrench was $2.97 at Walmart as well.
Playforcash, it may take a little time if you are using a slow connection. I could see all the pics this morning when I loaded the thread.
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2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
Great Post !
I may have missed it in your excellent post, but one should remove the oil filler cap prior to draining the oil....makes it a lot easier !
I know that you knew that... but fer doz newbies...
__________________ 2007 Red Rock Edition DC, 4X4 4.7L Tundra Limited' 20" wheels,Nav sys w/ backup camera, sonar, Bluetooth, 2" towhitch, folding mirrors, running boards, dual air, underseat storage.. etc. etc.
Great post! Pictures are worth a thousand words.
(Nothing like 27 8x10 color glossies with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one to get a point across.)
Many thanks.
I went to the Sears Torque wrench link on the above post. After reading some of the reviews on them I would not purchase one. Several of the posts say that the locking rings that hold the adjustable handles on break or fail, rendering it useless. Also, it has only a one year warranty.
I don't mean to stomp on your post, just my observation. I will likely get one that has better reviews for more longevity.
I actually have the digi-torque model but any torque wrench is better than German Torque!! My point is people should use them and i have had no problems at all with mine and would and will buy the 3/8 drive one this PM!
Just like doing things the recomended way and after 32 years turning wrenches ya get used to doing it the rite way! Aircraft mechanic and auto mechanic and just feel better when ya do a job the way it was supposed to be done, especially if you or your family depends on the quality of the work!
You’re my hero. My project this evening will be sooooo much easier now. Thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed description and pics.
Two quick questions:
Did your dealer have the filter in stock or did you order it?
Did you use a piece of hose on the "tool" as it shows in the PDF? (I wunder if this would have made this step a little less messy)
Thanks again!
Mark
The filter was in stock. I didn't use the piece of hose but I'm sure it would have been less messy if I had bought a piece to fit...
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2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
holy sh*t.........how much harder can toyota make it to change your oil. Guess Ill be keeping my 02 for a while longer. I just slide under the truck, spin off the filter, drain the oil then refill. Only takes about 10-15 mins.
Thanks for the pics. You lay it out clearly enough that I'm going to go ahead and give it a shot even though I haven't changed my own oil in 20 years. Mostly because I really dislike being at Toyota dealerships in Austin and I don't want to have to beg to get them to use 5W20.
It looks like my CrewMax LTD does not have a skid plate. I picked up 6 quart jugs of Mobil 1 5W20 at WalMart for under $20 each.
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2007 5.7 CrewMax Limited 2WD; Pyrite Mica/ Red Rock Leather
20" Alloy | Nav-JBL | Moonroof | Sonar | Cold Kit | Daytime Running Lights | BedRug | ConsoleVault | SoftTopper | TRD sway bar | Weatherguard Tool Box
NAV Mods: Speed Pulse Generator | AUX video input
Buy your truck outside of the Gulf States Toyota monopoly if you don't want to compromise.
Hmmm...very nice post of the oil change DIY!
However, I don't see the difficulty in doing this other than having to remove the skid plate.
Does the skid plate have to go back on?
How low is the front to the gound?
I guess if you take your truck off road then yes, I can see putting the plate back on, but if not, I don't see why you should.
That would make the next change that much easier.
The oil filter change is the same as my Avalon, and at least with the Tundra you don't have to jack it up!