DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light

[wilecoyote]

Excellent writeup! I think I will continue to have oil changes done at my local dealer - they offer 30min or next one is free and only charged me 35bucks total cost - of course this was using dino oil. I asked them and they told me they use only valvoline at thier dealership - which is what I use - so I may well get every other one for free anyway! Every car company has a few asshats running around deciding things - must have been the "asshats decision day" when toyota decided to "engineer" this ludicrous method to change the oil. They have taken one of the easiest and most vital maintenance operations to perform and turned it into a true brainfart of a deal - way to go toyo. I remember changing the oil in my 97 supra was no picnic either - seems like they are really trying to give thier dealerships more biz This is really a minor irritant however when compared to how much I love my new truck!!!

[Gave_up_my_Bowtie]

Nice job on the oil change. Last night I was installing a Truxxx 3" lift on my truck and noticed the oil filter. I wasn't sure what it was, but now I know. Thanks again.

[StatCoder]

I got mine done this afternoon at 2000 miles. No skid plate on my CrewMax and everything was conveniently near the front of the truck so there was plenty of room. At first the oil from the pan squirted out and bounced into the right front wheel then it splashed the other way. I had some problems with the plastic drainer because I didn't get it snapped in there for a while. This is definitely not a hot-engine friendly procedure. I also pushed the new big gasket too far down the filter housing so it squished out when I was screwing it in but I got it correct after that. Finally, for some reason, I was checking the level while the engine was running (don't do that) and thought I put a little too much oil in there. Probably 7.5 quarts. I saw some clear fluid running out over the old oil puddle and thought I was overflowing oil but it was condensation water.

I took apart the old filter but didn't see any metal pieces larger than small grains of sand. That was about 30 bucks worth of Mobil 1 5W20 from WalMart. I'm thinking of going 10K before the next change.

Be sure to properly seat the rubber O-ring on the filter otherwise all of your oil will leak out and leave your engine dry like the servcie dept did to the guy in one of these other threads. It doesn't belong way far down on the filter. It actually sits a half inch or so above where you might think. You should fee nice consistent resistance as you do your last few turns of the filter housing. You actually feel the rubber of the gasket sliding along like a screw with a rubber band wrapped around it. If you see the gasket squishing out of the edge of the filter as you tighten then it is in the wrong place.

[Thrlls]

Originally Posted by StatCoder

I got mine done this afternoon at 2000 miles. No skid plate on my CrewMax and everything was conveniently near the front of the truck so there was plenty of room. At first the oil from the pan squirted out and bounced into the right front wheel then it splashed the other way. I had some problems with the plastic drainer because I didn't get it snapped in there for a while. This is definitely not a hot-engine friendly procedure. I also pushed the new big gasket too far down the filter housing so it squished out when I was screwing it in but I got it correct after that. Finally, for some reason, I was checking the level while the engine was running (don't do that) and thought I put a little too much oil in there. Probably 7.5 quarts. I saw some clear fluid running out over the old oil puddle and thought I was overflowing oil but it was condensation water.

I took apart the old filter but didn't see any metal pieces larger than small grains of sand. That was about 30 bucks worth of Mobil 1 5W20 from WalMart. I'm thinking of going 10K before the next change.

For $25 you can get your oil analyzed at Blackstone Laboratories and they will let you know if you can extend the oil change intervals with the information and oil sample you send them. They can also tell you if there is any coolant in your oil...possible head gasket leak, or brass, aluminum, steel particles, which may mean bearing going or other related problems. It's a very comprehensive report that you get, and they'll send you a little container to send your oil sample via USPS.
I try to do this every 3rd oil change just to be sure there are no signs of a break down coming my way.
Here's a link: Blackstone Laboratories

[wilecoyote]

Now that is some good info, much appreciated - thanks for the link as well. This could be an engine saving diagnostic and for only 25bucks well worth it.

[rootoo2]

I read earlier in the thread about using a torque wrench to get torque correct when replacing filter and skid plate. Does anyone have the service manual and TRULY know what the recommended torque is as per service manual? Guesses and thoughts about what torque was on an older truck just don't cut it. If we are going to break out the torque wrnech, might as well know the correct setting.

Thanks for all the pics and the step-by-step. Outstanding job.

[pkingroch]

Excellent thread for Q&A about this process.

One additional question about the filter. Is there a difference between the 5.7 filter no the TRD vehicle and the non-TRD vehicle? I asked about pricing at my dealer and I was told that there was a diiference. Non-TRD filter being $5,99 and TRD filter in the $20 range.

[StatCoder]

Look, you paid at least $$30K for your Tundra, so why not pay $14 more to get the proper TRD filter?


Just kidding. There isn't any difference because the engine is exactly the same. There is a TRD oil fill cap, however.

[DSLKSL]

Watch out for your dealers! I have spoke to mine 3 times and each time they told me wrong things!
1st They only stock 10w 30 in bulk.
2nd if they tell you $29.00 for an oil change read the fine print they wil add for more than 4-5 quarts of oil.

[sardoin]

MAN, this is an awesome post. I haven't changed me oil yet but I will def. be refering to it when it comes time. This is as good as any service manual. Thanks soo much.

[bpittman91]

oil filter part # change for those who live near dealers that have rookies behind the counter...

04152-YZZA4

[doc caliban]

Many thanks, great write up.

Did it tonight at 1300 miles with Castrol GTX (dino). Did it to a relatively hot motor and those first couple quarts came out so fast they shot right off my drain pan (same as pictured) and onto the tire lol.

TRD 2wd's do have the skid plate. Wasn't too bad really, but haven't put the skid back on yet.

One question: I noticed a bit of "goop" in a few places. If you've ever used WD-40 on adhesive and you get those little balls of jelly, that's what they looked like. It was mostly on the threads for the filter housing. Anyone else? Assembly lube? Wrong place for the question?

Cleaned them off, but it did make me curious...

Thanks

[gator111]

How do I get the pictures to display?

[mhadden]

Originally Posted by gator111

How do I get the pictures to display?

They should display automatically, but if you are using a slow connection, you may have to wait a few min for them to load.

Doc Caliban, I didn't have that goop that you were talking about. I would assume that it was assembly lube or the like; I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[crewmaxlover]

Originally Posted by StatCoder

I got mine done this afternoon at 2000 miles. No skid plate on my CrewMax and everything was conveniently near the front of the truck so there was plenty of room. At first the oil from the pan squirted out and bounced into the right front wheel then it splashed the other way. I had some problems with the plastic drainer because I didn't get it snapped in there for a while. This is definitely not a hot-engine friendly procedure. I also pushed the new big gasket too far down the filter housing so it squished out when I was screwing it in but I got it correct after that. Finally, for some reason, I was checking the level while the engine was running (don't do that) and thought I put a little too much oil in there. Probably 7.5 quarts. I saw some clear fluid running out over the old oil puddle and thought I was overflowing oil but it was condensation water.

I took apart the old filter but didn't see any metal pieces larger than small grains of sand. That was about 30 bucks worth of Mobil 1 5W20 from WalMart. I'm thinking of going 10K before the next change.

Be sure to properly seat the rubber O-ring on the filter otherwise all of your oil will leak out and leave your engine dry like the servcie dept did to the guy in one of these other threads. It doesn't belong way far down on the filter. It actually sits a half inch or so above where you might think. You should fee nice consistent resistance as you do your last few turns of the filter housing. You actually feel the rubber of the gasket sliding along like a screw with a rubber band wrapped around it. If you see the gasket squishing out of the edge of the filter as you tighten then it is in the wrong place.

thank you for this post, i thought i would be the only one that put the o-ring in the wrong place and squashed it!!! the instructions on the oil filter box do not show where it goes and the filter housing leads you to think it may go on the bottom. I think i may have streched/nicked my o-ring as i have a very very tiny leak from the housing, but it still is driving me crazy. Mabey someone post a pic of the 0-ring in the correct place? I know it seems stupid , but i seem to screw up the easy ones!!

And thanks again to the one who started this post. I did not realize it was such a basic tool to remove the filter housing ( 65/67mm 14 flute oil filter wrench ).

And the one who noted the torque settings, im sure i have like 35lbs on the oil drain bolt

Also i narrowly missed spraying my right wheel brake disc with oil while draining.

Wish i would have read this before i did my first one


CML