I just finished my first oil change on 2007 Tundra CrewMax and I wanted to say that it is the most different oil change I have done since my '69' Volkswagen with an internal filter. With the help from mhadden-great job and all of you it was really not that bad. The next one will be much easier. I did want to say one thing about adding a tube or hose to the plastic piece for draining the filter cannister. I used a piece of 5/8' heater hose. It was not the tightest fit but it worked without an oil mess. So if you have a 2 ft. piece in your garage it will work. Also I purchased the oil cup at Advance Auto - 65mm/14 flutes. Worked perfect. Be careful like others have said about putting the big O ring in the correct O ring slot. I used 5W20 Mobil 1 and the engine is even smoother running after the oil change. Love my Tundra.
how many mile do you have ??i think im waiting till there is 3000 till mobil1 i will be up to my third oil change by then
I changed to Mobil 1 at 1400 miles. Just had the time and was in the mood so I changed it. I have been using Mobil 1 in my other vehicles for years. You never have to worry about using Mobil 1 oil. Heck I even have it my lawn mowers.
Toyota does call for 7.4 quarts, but I used 7. Using 7 quarts put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the dipstick ("add" and "full"). Saves me (and you) from having 1/2 quart sitting around for a couple months until the next oil change with an open seal...
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2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
Glad you all had good luck. I did not. Some wise guy at the factory must have put my filter cover on with 300 pounds of torque. The 65//67 14 flute was not up to the task.
Looks like off to the dealer after wasting 7 quarts of Mobil 1 as I had to put everything else back together and did not change the filter element.
Love the truck but this is a very poor design. Why not put the cannister up top like BMW's. Taking the skid plate off and then having oil all over is absurd.
Ecellent directions. It took me about 2 hours first time through. Most of the time spent waiting for oil to drain. I had two catch pans going after about 10 minutes for the bulk and the canister. I did some other chores while waiting for everything to drain....I had no complications and there was very little mess. I used a piece of 1/2" or 5/8" ID tubing on the canister "tool" to help guide the oil to the pan....worked great. My first attempt to use the "tool" was messy. Second attempt, I found by rotating the "tool" as I pushed it up helped it snap into place more easily without any overspill. When I took my canister there was minimal oil in reserve. Probably due to a 20 minute drain period. I did cut my filter open to find the metal filings between the creases. Scary, but nothing of any significant size. 2745 miles at change. Oil will be going to O.A.I for testing. The kit was $20 including shipping from my AMSoil rep who lives down the street. Anyone interested in getting oil from him let me know and I will get you his web contact info. I paid $58 for 2 gallons of 0w-20.
Just did my CrewMax at 5,000 miles. Wasn’t too bad for the first time. Most of the work is getting the skid plate off, but that was pretty easy too knowing what to expect with the excellent tutorial at the beginning of this thread. Next one will go much faster. One thing I did wrong was I left the small o-ring out of the filter cap when I drained the canister with the little plastic thingy. Got oil all over my hand. You need the o-ring in there when you drain it. Used lots of disposable gloves though and stayed clean.
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2007 SR5 CrewMax, SiLver w/5.7 V8
>Bakflip Tonneau Cover.
>Rampage Running Boards.
>Heavy Duty 6 ft. Rubber Bed Mat
out of my 2000 Tundra cut to fit!
This is a cut and paste from another article. I found it interesting.
I am a NASA Engineer at
Marshal Space Flight Center in Huntsville, Alabama. My field of work is
Tribology which is the study of friction, wear, and lubrication. In our
spare time, our group collects and tests different motor oils using the
Shell Four Ball tester. This tester tests the extreme pressure properties
of oils. These areas in a motor are cam to lifter contacts, valve stem to
guild, and piston skirts. Over the years we have found synthetic bases oils
to out perform mineral based oils by a large margin. We test the oils new,
after 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and up to 10,000 miles. In a nut shell, we
found that synthetic oils have better wear properties after being run 10,000
miles then mineral grade oils new. Which synthetic do we use? First any
you will benefit from any synthetic, but we use Mobil 1. Mobil by far puts
more research dollars in motor oils then any other company. They are also
aggressive in racing.
Other notes on motor oils.
Do not run a multi grade oil (10w-30) more then 1000 to 2000 miles -
depending on your driving habits.
This is because a 10w30 oil starts its life as a 10 weight oil and large
polymer chains are added to get the 30 rating. These chains break down very
quickly which produces small chains with an open electron charge at the
ends. These ends attract grim and form sludge.
Do not run synthetics in a new rebuild. A new engine needs the added
friction allowed by mineral oils to set the rings properly. Chevy found
this out on the corvette. These cars came from the factory with Mobil 1 and
owners brought them back because of smoking and oil consumption (rings did
not seat). Run a good single weight oil for the first 2000 miles. We found
Havaline 30 to be a good mineral oil - in fact we use it for our standard.
The reason Mobil 1 can safely be run for 10,000 miles is because the
additive package is well engineered to isolate grim and hold it in
suspension. This also is why Mobil 1 is expensive. You know - you get what
you pay for.
This is a cut and paste from another article. I found it interesting.
I am a NASA Engineer at
Marshal Space Flight Center in Huntsville, Alabama. My field of work is
Tribology which is the study of friction, wear, and lubrication. In our
spare time, our group collects and tests different motor oils using the
Shell Four Ball tester. This tester tests the extreme pressure properties
of oils. These areas in a motor are cam to lifter contacts, valve stem to
guild, and piston skirts. Over the years we have found synthetic bases oils
to out perform mineral based oils by a large margin. We test the oils new,
after 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and up to 10,000 miles. In a nut shell, we
found that synthetic oils have better wear properties after being run 10,000
miles then mineral grade oils new. Which synthetic do we use? First any
you will benefit from any synthetic, but we use Mobil 1. Mobil by far puts
more research dollars in motor oils then any other company. They are also
aggressive in racing.
Other notes on motor oils.
Do not run a multi grade oil (10w-30) more then 1000 to 2000 miles -
depending on your driving habits.
This is because a 10w30 oil starts its life as a 10 weight oil and large
polymer chains are added to get the 30 rating. These chains break down very
quickly which produces small chains with an open electron charge at the
ends. These ends attract grim and form sludge.
Do not run synthetics in a new rebuild. A new engine needs the added
friction allowed by mineral oils to set the rings properly. Chevy found
this out on the corvette. These cars came from the factory with Mobil 1 and
owners brought them back because of smoking and oil consumption (rings did
not seat). Run a good single weight oil for the first 2000 miles. We found
Havaline 30 to be a good mineral oil - in fact we use it for our standard.
The reason Mobil 1 can safely be run for 10,000 miles is because the
additive package is well engineered to isolate grim and hold it in
suspension. This also is why Mobil 1 is expensive. You know - you get what
you pay for.
Sounds like a paid add, I tried M1 5w-30 and it shears to god knows what within 3500 miles, the engine revved like I was running 10w, now I have German Castrol 0w-30, I'm currently right a 5k miles and no sign of shearing, I am going to change it, I'm not running any oil over 5 to 7k miles, because of the short trips I run, and the low miles, I usually go 6 months + between changes.
'Bout time someone got a filter out! I didn't understand how hard it could be to replicate pleats and media material! Note that the filter does include 2 O-rings, but not the plastic drain thinger-majiggy. Can't find a price anywhere yet.
Just a note to everyone. I can't edit the DIY post anymore (because of expiration??) but there is a new oil filter p/n for the Toyota Kit. 04152-YZZA4
__________________
2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
Great input on oil change, this will really help my 1st, any idea on dealer oil change price with skid plate. I haven't priced mine yet and not ready to go sythetic yet.
Thanks
Gary419
The lesson here is: Negotiate free oil changes for life when you buy. I have read that some people have done so. I bet that we wont recieve dealer coupons for 14.99 and 19.99 or even 29.99. Anyone know what the dealers are charing for oil changes?? PS Great Post
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
and all of you
) but there is a new oil filter p/n for the Toyota Kit. 04152-YZZA4
Linear Mode
