What good are free oil changes if they aren't going to put in the recommended oil because they want to use bulk? Sure, you can complain and try to get them to do it but I'd rather change my own oil 10 times than beg someone to take my freakin' oil change coupon.
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2007 5.7 CrewMax Limited 2WD; Pyrite Mica/ Red Rock Leather
20" Alloy | Nav-JBL | Moonroof | Sonar | Cold Kit | Daytime Running Lights | BedRug | ConsoleVault | SoftTopper | TRD sway bar | Weatherguard Tool Box
NAV Mods: Speed Pulse Generator | AUX video input
Buy your truck outside of the Gulf States Toyota monopoly if you don't want to compromise.
My skidplate used internal wrenching screws instead normal philips screws, the screw head slot is six sided, it doesn't use a torx bit or a square bit. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Our do I need to by a special bit from Toyota?
My skidplate used internal wrenching screws instead normal philips screws, the screw head slot is six sided, it doesn't use a torx bit or a square bit. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Our do I need to by a special bit from Toyota?
Nope, take a picture, does not sound like anything I have ever seen, unless it's an allen.
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Thanks, it is an allen head screw but metric and I didn't have as set so I tried again this afternoon, but my dealers service department put the oil filter housing on too tight (so much for the torque wrench), I actually stripped out my oil cap removal tool. Also they forgot to put the oil service cap back on after filling the motor. The engine compartment looks like a 100K motor, what a mess.
If you want to do that, then just don't change the O-rings during your next oil change. I didn't change mine and I have no leaks. I see no reason why they need to be replaced every oil change.
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2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
thanks all for the oil change postings for the 5.7 tundra. asking wife to watch the kids this weekend so i can change oil on sat and watch opening footbal weekend. it'll cost me a shopping spree, but i love my tundra and football.
One quick thing. anyone notice that engine oil was a little overfill from the factory? i check it sitting cold on level grounds and it was about a quarter inch overfill. dont think its a big deal, but anybody notice the same? i been checking getting ready for my first oil change.
thanks all for the oil change postings for the 5.7 tundra. asking wife to watch the kids this weekend so i can change oil on sat and watch opening footbal weekend. it'll cost me a shopping spree, but i love my tundra and football.
One quick thing. anyone notice that engine oil was a little overfill from the factory? i check it sitting cold on level grounds and it was about a quarter inch overfill. dont think its a big deal, but anybody notice the same? i been checking getting ready for my first oil change.
thnks
TT
07 crewmax 5.7 rocks!!!!
Yes, mine was slightly over the full line, but I wasn't worried about it.
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2008 Honda CR-V EX AWD
2008 Honda Civic LX
What good are free oil changes if they aren't going to put in the recommended oil because they want to use bulk? Sure, you can complain and try to get them to do it but I'd rather change my own oil 10 times than beg someone to take my freakin' oil change coupon.
You nailed it....
I have no intention of ever working on this truck, so initially I was pleased that Champions of Austin gives free oil changes for life of vehicle purchased there BUT!!!!
first they put in 5-30 despite my repeated requests for 0-20 or 5-20, then when they replaced it with correct oil they improperly installed the filter, hence my Tundra sits in there shop damaged from running low on oil....
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2007 SR5 Double Cab Radiant Red 5.7 w/TSS
I finally changed my first oil change at 3100 miles today. I put in Mobile1 5-20W. With the help of this great thread, I can visualize and expect what's coming. I did not spill any oil in my garage. The skid is easy to take off.
I have a hard time to take the canister off. It kept slipping when I try to unscrew it. I have a 65-67 wrench. I used a hacksaw and saw off about 1/8 inch and it worked perfectly.
Thanks mhadden for the great tutorial....
Sounds like a paid add, I tried M1 5w-30 and it shears to god knows what within 3500 miles, the engine revved like I was running 10w, now I have German Castrol 0w-30, I'm currently right a 5k miles and no sign of shearing, I am going to change it, I'm not running any oil over 5 to 7k miles, because of the short trips I run, and the low miles, I usually go 6 months + between changes.
"it shears to god knows what within 3500 miles"
What does that mean?
The man in TC101's article was right - too conservative if anything. Mobil 1 is great. I've been using it for many years. I change it only at 15,000 mile intervals. My Ford F-150 now has over 300,000 miles now and still - knock on wood - runs like new. Likewise in my previous vehicles. In my old VW Beetle I never changed the Mobil 1 oil at all, just replaced what fell out. Beetle also hit 300,000 miles before rust killed it, the engine (and transmission) still running like new.
I have to say thanks to all the members of this board who posted experiences with changing the oil and filter on the 5.7. All the tips really helped!! I changed my oil and filter yesterday with some trepidation, but being I was a F-4 crew chief in the USAF before, I figured I was mechanically inclined to try it myself.
The skid plate takes the most time to remove and put back on but was really not that bad, mine even has additional spacers in the rear 3 bolts to make room for the diff drop with my lift kit. Really it lined up pretty good and was not a big deal, helps to have a strong arm to hold it up.
A 10 qt bucket works great to prevent oil shooting all over, I also just in case covered the pass side wheel and brakes with a big towel to prevent it getting splashed with oil just in case, but with the bucket it did not at all. Drain oil and reinstall drain plug, I have more drain plug gaskets but the one stayed in place and I just re used it. Make sure you have one in place and don't accidentally use 2 or none.
Get 18" piece of plastic tubing to slip over the plastic housing drain tool that comes with the filter kit, 5/8 ID if I remember. Use the O ring, it stayed in place when I removed the filter drain plug. I just forcefully pushed that thing in there with the hose attached and it worked perfect. Let it drain a couple Min's and remove the housing cap. My housing wrench was a little tight so had to really push it up hard to seat it. Make sure it is fully engaged before trying to spin the cap off o you may damage the housing cap. Also note the position of the large o ring when you pull the cap!!
remove old filter and old O rings small and large the small one came off when I twisted out the plastic drain tool.
Oil up the large O ring and carefully slide it into position noted earlier making sure it is fully seated. Slide new filter on and hand tighten cap back into place, I just left the cap wrench on the filter housing the whole time as Replaced the filter and O rings. After its hand tight finish tightening with wrench, do this slowly.
Lube up and install small O ring and put in housing drain plug by hand first! then tighten the rest of the way.
Pour in oil, I used Mobil 1 0-20w 7.4 as specified in the manual was right on. First I poured in 7 quarts then started the engine and checked for leaks and let it run for a couple Min's. good to go. Re checked the oil level and topped it off. reinstall skid plate. Done, spilled about 2 table spoons of oil total, not bad! Thanks again guys you all really made this job go well. I really don't see what all the fuss is about it is a good system, yes harder than a spin on but not bad at all IMO. worst part is the skid plate and thats not really that bad. Get a box of disposable rubber gloves and when one set gets oily just put on a new pair, keeps everything much cleaner, including you
I thought I could read this thread, utilize the info and go on my way but I have to tell you, I had trouble. At 3000 miles, my 1st oil change was on the house. I usually change my own oil so at 6000 miles I did. The only problem I had was the drain bolt wouln't unscew an I ended up taking the cap off with the drain bolt. After reading your intructions I knew what to expect so I did it slowly with minimal mess (no oil on concrete and thanks to gravity no oil on frame). Did I do something wrong or did the dealership over tourqe the bolt. After the cap was off I tried to take the drain bolt off and just short of using a vise I was unsuccessful. Anyway I replaced the filter 1 Oring and put the cap back on with no leaks. So I give MHadden a hearty thanks for your instructions because I would have been lost when encountering my problem.
I have a hard time to take the canister off. It kept slipping when I try to unscrew it. I have a 65-67 wrench. I used a hacksaw and saw off about 1/8 inch and it worked perfectly.
Thanks mhadden for the great tutorial....
I did too, so I returned the 65-67 and got the 65..worked perfectly...
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
Linear Mode
