Effects of Shearing
Its been documented that M1 5w-30 can shear to something close to 5w-20,
It was my experience with it. many believe (There have been tests done to confirm it although on only one Extended life grade) its now a group III base stock oil, maybe the reason for the price drop at "China mart"
Quote:
The man in TC101's article was right - too conservative if anything. Mobil 1 is great. I've been using it for many years. I change it only at 15,000 mile intervals. My Ford F-150 now has over 300,000 miles now and still - knock on wood - runs like new. Likewise in my previous vehicles. In my old VW Beetle I never changed the Mobil 1 oil at all, just replaced what fell out. Beetle also hit 300,000 miles before rust killed it, the engine (and transmission) still running like new.
I have a 2007 full sized Tundra and I had the oil changed for the first time at a local drive thru oil change place. After having the oil changed my oil pressure gauge started having dramatic increases in oil pressure when accelerating. There was even some mild loss of power while pulling my horse trailer. I took it by the dealer and they said that was normal which I knew it wasn't! I had them change the oil and FILTER that the other place serviced 3 days before and IMMEDFIATELY the truck was happy again and the gauge returned to being stable!!! The truck and engine was conpromised by using a different filter than the special one toyota made for this truck.
Be careful not to make the same mistake and end up with a compromised engine or worse!
Effects of Shearing
Its been documented that M1 5w-30 can shear to something close to 5w-20,
It was my experience with it. many believe (There have been tests done to confirm it although on only one Extended life grade) its now a group III base stock oil, maybe the reason for the price drop at "China mart"
15k on one, and none on the Beetle? Nice.
Don't quite follow you. What price drop? I've been using M1 5W30 for over 300,000 miles in my '97 Ford F150, and using the Extended Service Mobil 1 5W30 since it first hit the market a couple of years ago. In between the Beetle and the present Ford I also had some other vehicles including a Toyota Tercel that I sold at ~ 100,000 miles and a Nissan pickup truck that i sold at ~125,000 miles. Same deal with all of them, M1 and M1 filter, changing them at 10,000 mile intervals, now extended to 15,000 mile intervals, except, as I said, the somewhat leaky Beetle which just got oil added to it. All these engines have performed flawlessly.
It's much cheaper in the 5 qt. containers. I see that they are coming out with all sorts of new variations - M1 for trucks, M1 for hi-mileage vehicles, etc. I don't know what that's all about. I just use the extended mileage M1. Not every Walmart has a good selection, though. Also Walmart doesn't sell the M1 oil filters. But you can bring in your own filter and buy the oil there and they'll change it for you for ~$10 - I don't know about your Tundras, though.
had two oil changes @ 2 different sprawlmarts. wouldn't use their auto dept for an oil change in my push mower. incompetence galore. saw one guy try to torque a fill plug on with an impact. another place i told to use mob 1 10-30 in my jeep, saw the guy try to put the ultra cheap axx sprawlmart oil in there. no thanks, would rather drag my junk over hot coals and then have a russian ballet troupe dance on it.
your correct about the 5 qt jugs. 19.96$ most of the time iirc, though ive never seen 0w-20. but the local place to me has 5-20 most of the time. but that's a debatable oil viscosity argument that i wont tread on lol.
cheers
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Cheers to mhadden for the time and effort to post this D.I.Y.
I did the first oil change on my 5.7 a couple hours ago.
Here's a few observations:
I found the entire job to be very easy but a bit more time consuming than most vehicles due to the skidplate and aircraft-type oil filter bowl + plug.
First of all, if you try and do an oil change on this truck using a normal oil catch pan, you are ASKING to have oil splash all over, etc. etc. The low viscosity of the oil this engine uses plus the angle of the oil pan drain are the reasons why. After reading a few of the posts concerning this, it was obvious that a taller container would solve the problem nicely. I used a 4-gallon steel bucket that sits 10.5 inches high at the top. It easily caught the entire 7.5 quarts of hot oil with zero splashing and zero mess. I had the truck's front wheels on a couple short sections of 2" x 12" wooden plank that gave just a little more room to work underneath the truck.
The oil filter bowl is designed a somewhat like the main oil filter on the turbine engine I have for an avatar currently. The plastic drain nipple works just fine if you run a piece of rubber hose from it to your oil catch bucket. Just seat it into the filter bowl quickly and squarely and no oil will run out the sides. The filter bowl O-ring does have a slight tendency to want to roll or pinch when re-attaching the bowl. There are two old techniques used on aircraft oil filter bowl O-rings that can be done beforehand to prevent this: The first is to put a film of vaseline (a.k.a. Petrolatum in aviation maintenance) on the O-ring; it works better than engine oil for getting the O-ring to slip past the bowl housing lip. The second is to take a metal pick (dentist pick), lift the O-ring from its groove, and run the pick around the circumference of the filter bowl 2 or 3 times with the O-ring riding on top of it. This will take any twists in the O-ring out.
IMO, doing this oil change is no big deal. Just plan on some extra time to accomplish it and use an appropriate catch container for the oil.
Last edited by Afterimage; 09-16-2007 at 01:58 AM.
Cheers to mhadden for the time and effort to post this D.I.Y.
I did the first oil change on my 5.7 a couple hours ago.
Here's a few observations:
I found the entire job to be very easy but a bit more time consuming than most vehicles due to the skidplate and aircraft-type oil filter bowl + plug.
First of all, if you try and do an oil change on this truck using a normal oil catch pan, you are ASKING to have oil splash all over, etc. etc. The low viscosity of the oil this engine uses plus the angle of the oil pan drain are the reasons why. After reading a few of the posts concerning this, it was obvious that a taller container would solve the problem nicely. I used a 4-gallon steel bucket that sits 10.5 inches high at the top. It easily caught the entire 7.5 quarts of hot oil with zero splashing and zero mess. I had the truck's front wheels on a couple short sections of 2" x 12" wooden plank that gave just a little more room to work underneath the truck.
The oil filter bowl is designed a somewhat like the main oil filter on the turbine engine I have for an avatar currently. The plastic drain nipple works just fine if you run a piece of rubber hose from it to your oil catch bucket. Just seat it into the filter bowl quickly and squarely and no oil will run out the sides. The filter bowl O-ring does have a slight tendency to want to roll or pinch when re-attaching the bowl. There are two old techniques used on aircraft oil filter bowl O-rings that can be done beforehand to prevent this: The first is to put a film of vaseline (a.k.a. Petrolatum in aviation maintenance) on the O-ring; it works better than engine oil for getting the O-ring to slip past the bowl housing lip. The second is to take a metal pick (dentist pick), lift the O-ring from its groove, and run the pick around the circumference of the filter bowl 2 or 3 times with the O-ring riding on top of it. This will take any twists in the O-ring out.
IMO, doing this oil change is no big deal. Just plan on some extra time to accomplish it and use an appropriate catch container for the oil.
I also noticed this "pinching and rolling" of the bowl O-ring while re-installing the bowl, you could feel and hear it. I just used engine oil to lube it for reinstallation and went slowly. Next time I will use vaseline cause I bet this is were most people run into trouble with leaks after reinstallation. Very good tip.
I should have remembered that from my days in the USAF, but that was a LONG time ago, I crewed F-4s for crying out loud LOL
Great job, I got stuck at the hooks, when dropping the peble gard. Once I had it down I removed the hooks, they will not hang me up again. Need the tool for removing the oil filter assembly. Thinking of making a trap door, so filter removal could be done with out removing the peble gard.
It is still stickied, kind of. It is contained in the DIY sticky now.
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Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
Re: DIY: Oil Change W/ CORRECT FILTER
Cheers to mhadden for the time and effort to post this D.I.Y. 
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