Ok, so my dealer told me they go "by the book" when changing oil. He says, we change the oil after the first 5000 miles and not a mile sooner. The manual does say to change the oil at 5000 mile intervals. When I told him I usually change my oil (on my other car) at 3k intervals, he told me the Tundra engine is designed to allow changing every 5k miles.
Anybody think otherwize?
By the way, that is one great picture library of an oil change - as good or better than any manual.
With all the discussion about the skid plate..what it the harm in leaving it off? I have a 2wd and have no intention of taking it off road so do I really need it on?
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SR5 5.7 Crew Max 2WD
Airaid CAI
Borla Dual Exhaust
Doug Thorley Headers
Undercover tonneu cover
Kenwood KDC-MP38U/Alpine 6 3/4 speakers
Luverne SS running boards
Homelink Mirror
TRD Sway Bar
TRD Sport shifter
Amsoil oil/rear diff fluid
The skid plate also protects the underside from all of the other road debris that gets run over. Think of it as body armor for the bottom of your engine.
Isn't the skid plate part of the TRD package? If so than the non TRD guys don't have one..I am going to leave mine off unless someone can convince me otherwise.
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SR5 5.7 Crew Max 2WD
Airaid CAI
Borla Dual Exhaust
Doug Thorley Headers
Undercover tonneu cover
Kenwood KDC-MP38U/Alpine 6 3/4 speakers
Luverne SS running boards
Homelink Mirror
TRD Sway Bar
TRD Sport shifter
Amsoil oil/rear diff fluid
Thanks, mhadden, for the brilliant set of pics & info re: Tundra oil change. Even though my workshop here on the estate is heated all winter, has a 13' ceiling and a 10M pound twin post hoist I'm thinking now of going to a Nissan Titan. It's wheelbase is 5" less than Tundra, it offers a 5.6L V8 and a reasonable rear axle ratio which obviates the necessity of a double overdrive 6 speed transmission.
If these trucks keep getting longer pretty soon they'll build 'em articulated! Thanks again. Ctysquire
I am glad I read to take the passenger side tire off as that oil shot out of there...it was not too bad of a job..the truck has 3k on it, first oil change, I did see a few shavings in the filter but not much..used 7.5 qts of Mobil 5W-20 Syn.
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SR5 5.7 Crew Max 2WD
Airaid CAI
Borla Dual Exhaust
Doug Thorley Headers
Undercover tonneu cover
Kenwood KDC-MP38U/Alpine 6 3/4 speakers
Luverne SS running boards
Homelink Mirror
TRD Sway Bar
TRD Sport shifter
Amsoil oil/rear diff fluid
HUGE THREAD! But it helped me for my 1st oil change. My CM has 2 skid plates, stamped metal and the alum optional plate. Yes they were a pain to deal with (easy off - much harder to align and get back on). I solved this by using a 4 inch hole saw in each one and now I no longer have to remove them. I pluged the hole in the lowest (alum) skid plate with a stainless steel "pluming plate" I got at Home Depot, just put a backing bar and tighten it up. Keeps all the dirt and "stuff" out. I would not just remove the skid plates and leave them off as I belive they do provided protection from "road debris". As for the oil shooting out onto the tire, just use a folded up piece of cardboard to direct flow into drain pan. A Fumo valve will also work but I like the high flow rate when draining oil to carry out anything that might be in the bottom of the pan. Now oil changes are back to a reasonable 20 min!
HUGE THREAD! But it helped me for my 1st oil change. My CM has 2 skid plates, stamped metal and the alum optional plate. Yes they were a pain to deal with (easy off - much harder to align and get back on). I solved this by using a 4 inch hole saw in each one and now I no longer have to remove them. I pluged the hole in the lowest (alum) skid plate with a stainless steel "pluming plate" I got at Home Depot, just put a backing bar and tighten it up. Keeps all the dirt and "stuff" out. I would not just remove the skid plates and leave them off as I belive they do provided protection from "road debris". As for the oil shooting out onto the tire, just use a folded up piece of cardboard to direct flow into drain pan. A Fumo valve will also work but I like the high flow rate when draining oil to carry out anything that might be in the bottom of the pan. Now oil changes are back to a reasonable 20 min!
I just completed my first oil change on my 07 DB TRD 4x4. Thanks to the great instructions, it was not that bad EXCEPT for the skid plate. I have the factory underbelly skid plate, plus the optional front aluminum skid plate. The mounting brackets for the optional skid plate attach to the front tow hooks and essentially capture the factory skid plate between them. This makes it almost impossible to slide the factory skid plate toward the driver's door to release the small hooks on the factory skid plate. While you can cut off the hooks (as others have suggested), I found that you can remove the driver's side tow hook and this will allow the mounting bracket to droop enough to slide the factory skid plate out.
Now that I've been through the process, I could probably do it all in under 45 mins and stay relatively clean. I'm seriously thinking about cutting off those hooks on the factory skid plate. They are pretty flimsy - they bent just from hanging without any support, but I was able to bend them back with just finger pressure.
Very helpful, thanks. By the way, just for the he!! of it I jacked up the drivers side till tire was 4 inches off the floor and removed an additional cup of oil from the pan. Sorry if someone else has already mention this.
In the instructions you list a 65/67 mm flute oil filter wrench. Will just a 65mm work or do I need to find one that also fits 67 mm? The only auto parts store in my area that carries an flute oil filter wrench with a size on it only has the 65 mm. Probably a stupid question but I've never had to use one.
Thanks
Re: DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
. My CM has 2 skid plates, stamped metal and the alum optional plate. Yes they were a pain to deal with (easy off - much harder to align and get back on). I solved this by using a 4 inch hole saw in each one and now I no longer have to remove them. I pluged the hole in the lowest (alum) skid plate with a stainless steel "pluming plate" I got at Home Depot, just put a backing bar and tighten it up. Keeps all the dirt and "stuff" out. I would not just remove the skid plates and leave them off as I belive they do provided protection from "road debris". As for the oil shooting out onto the tire, just use a folded up piece of cardboard to direct flow into drain pan. A Fumo valve will also work but I like the high flow rate when draining oil to carry out anything that might be in the bottom of the pan. Now oil changes are back to a reasonable 20 min!
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