Due to a somewhat overwhelming demand, I'm posting a how-to with pics. Hopefully this answer questions about the oil changes. Keep in mind that this is for 5.7. The 4.7 will have the canister filter and will be a helluva lot easier to change. Not sure if the oil filter is in a different location on the 4.7's, either.
Disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable, do not perform this maintenance by yourself. Contact your local dealership for service. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after this procedure.
The tools that you’ll need:
3/8” socket wrench
3” 3/8” extension
10 mm socket (or Phillips screwdriver)
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
65/67 mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-38020
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20
First thing you’ll need to do is remove the skid plate, if you have one. There are 3 screws (holes identified in yellow) that have Phillips ends, but you can use the 10 mm socket since it’ll be easier and there are 5 2” long bolts (identified by red) holding the skid up. Use your 12 mm socket with extension to get these loose. It’s probably better to remove the front 3 screws and work your way back as the bolts will help hold the skid up until you are ready to remove. I couldn’t get a picture of what to do to remove the skid, but once all bolts are out, you’ll need to push the whole skid up and slide it towards the driver side. Then release and it should come down. Be careful not to whack yourself in the head with the thing…it’s a little heavy.
Once you remove the skid, you’ll need to identify where the oil filter (in yellow) and bulk oil drain bolt (in red) are located. I’ve indicated them as pictured above.
You’ll need a 14 mm socket to loosen the oil drain bolt. I use it to break it loose, and then I unscrew it with my hand. Get ready for a mess! Make sure you have your oil pan more towards the front wheel as the oil will shoot that way. Take a break by drinking a beer or whatever; it’ll take some time for the 7 quarts of oil to drain. Once the oil is dripping out of the hole, hand tighten the bolt back into the hole, taking care not to cross-thread the bolt. Then use the 14 mm socket to tighten.
Use your 3/8” extension to loosen the oil filter drain bolt. Don’t worry; very little oil will come out when you remove the bolt. Above is what it’ll look like with the bolt removed. You will have to use that plastic “tool” to help drain the oil out of the filter area. I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with. I had to push up (and hard!) to get the oil to come out. Even after pushing up and having the oil drain for 5 minutes I still didn’t get it all. It would have been a lot easier if the sway bar wasn’t so close to the filter location.
After you attempt to drain all the oil out of the filter, wipe the area off with a rag. Make sure you don’t damage the oil filter drain gasket if you plan on using it again (I did). Then using your 65/67 mm 14 flute oil wrench and 3/8” extension, twist the cap off. Once you turn it a couple times you’ll be able to twist it by hand…be prepared for more oil! Drop the whole assembly into your oil pan as it’ll make it easier to clean your hand and the area around the oil filter assembly. Once you have the truck portion cleaned up, remove the old oil filter that remains on the lower assembly and replace it with the new one. They should just pull off and push on. If you plan to change the gasket, do it now. Twist the lower assembly that holds the filter on taking care not to cross-thread. Then use your oil filter wrench to twist it tight. Make sure to put your oil filter drain bolt back on (make sure the gasket it on the lower assembly, then put the bolt on). Once everything is tight, fill your engine up with the motor oil of your choice and check your oil level on the dipstick. I used 7 quarts and it put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the empty and fill portion of the dipstick, which is where I like it. Made it easier not to use half a quart too…
Start your engine after filling and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Make sure you oil pressure is in the operating range. Check for leaks.
You’ll need to put the skid back on now. It’s not as bad as everyone says it is. Above are the holes you’ll need to align the hooks of the skid with. Make sure to have the plastic tabs of the front bumper overlapping the skid, otherwise the skid won’t go back into place. Then using the reverse process of removal, hand install the rear bolts into the skid, working your way forward taking care not to cross-thread the bolts. Then tighten the bolts. Finally tighten the screws; watch not to over tighten the screws as it’ll strip the plastic holders on the skid (which can be replaced if you do happen to strip them).
To reset your maintenance reminder system (even if the light hasn’t come on yet), you’ll need to turn your key to on (but don’t start!) and make sure your odometer is on TRIP A. Then key off. Press and hold the Odometer/Trip button. While holding down on the button, key the ignition to on (Don’t start the engine!) The display panel will count down from “------“ to “-“Continue pressing the button until the Trip A is displayed. After this step, you are done. Drink a couple beers for a job well done!
DIY: Oil Change w/ pics. & Reset Maintenance Required Light
and torque was supposed to be only 83 Ft lb. Stupid Techs get away with this and yes this will warp the brake rotors.
My take on DIY Maintenance is ya gotta have a clue on Maintenance or i would advise letting a Qualified Tech do the work if ya can find one!!
Yes they are expensive but A MUST to use unless ya wanta be like the dealer techs!!
worth every penny!!
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. The fully electric gas pedal feature various onboard computer systems etc.
Linear Mode
