As with all the earlier posts, it looks absolutely excellent. Now for what may be some dumb questions:
1. I have a stock 2007 DC 4WD SR5 (by the way, it's slate too). Could I put those tires on without a lift?
2. I live in Kent. I am slightly chicken about taking on a lift myself. Could you recommend a shop or dealer in Western WA that would do a GOOD job; someone I could trust?
3. What dealer did you use to get the alignment and zero calibration, sounds like they know what they are doing, or at least your tech did? Puyallup?
And thanks for your post, very very informative, and for your patience with us less mechanically inclined, but who love your lift results.
Thank you
Some Answers...
1. With no lift, you may be able to, but I think the Tundra may look kind of "stepped on". You would be better staying closer to the factory sizes.
2. I do all my own mechanics, except for what I only trust the dealerships to do. I don't know many shops, but places like Big O and Les Schwab give me a real bad feeling (lots of HS kids running around with wrenches)
Olympic offroad, NW offroad, Billy Bob's offroad, 4wheel part are the 4 that come to mind as trustworthy for lifts.
Now that said, a case of beer could convince me to help you out, if I only had the time and the shop space (it's cold right now, and our trucks don't fit but halfway into my garage) and with Christmas, I couldn't even consider it till sometime in Jan.
3. Yes, I use Toyota of Puyallup. You are closer to Auburn and I like those guys as well (Auburn may actually do lifts in house, but don't quote me on that)
If you walk into Puyallup with a lift and ask for an alignment they are likely going to send you packing cause of me. They tried to get it "right" 3 times, and are now paying for me to get it dialed in somewhere else. Toy of Puy is very good at what they do, but admit they do not like to work on "modded" vehicles. The alignment on my truck is very close but it pulls a tad to the right, and when I am towing, I get very fatigued trying to keep it going straight.
There are many alignment shops in our area that are capable of getting it right. Main things that need to be asked...have they ever did an alignment on a new tundra, have they did it on trucks with spacer lifts, are they willing to set it, drive it, and adjust it and do they stand behind it if you are not happy? I underlined and bold-ed that last part, cause it is the most important. Again, I hold nothing against Toyota of Puyallup, they are making it right.
Hope this helps you and others...
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Thanks much for the detailed reply and wealth of info. I have some data to chew on. We have an off-road shop here in Kent (TC's) and I will check them out and see what they say. I agree, a lift is the way to go for the looks. And I agree, there are a lot of shops I would not go to, we have to be careful.
.......They tried to get it "right" 3 times, and are now paying for me to get it dialed in somewhere else. Toy of Puy is very good at what they do, but admit they do not like to work on "modded" vehicles. The alignment on my truck is very close but it pulls a tad to the right, and when I am towing, I get very fatigued trying to keep it going straight.
So they have a hard time correcting the caster setting after the spacers?? Sounds like too much positive caster on the right or not enough on the left to me. This gets worsened when you put a load on the rear of the truck, which I can only imagine, well, SUCKS when towing. Any chance you have the printout of the specs they were ableto correct it to??? This may be of help to those that can't find a shop that has worked on the lifted Tundras.
Thanks, and love the truck.
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07 Tundra DC TRD 4.7, THE Blue Streak
Top Gun Customz levelling kit
MagnaFlow true duals, XM ExpressRC
Tinted Winders, mostly shaved emblems
Kobalt toolbox, Silverstar bulbs
Removed charcoal filter,
pillar vinyl and gayass pinstripes
Coming attractions: Tires and stereo upgrades
So they have a hard time correcting the caster setting after the spacers?? Sounds like too much positive caster on the right or not enough on the left to me. This gets worsened when you put a load on the rear of the truck, which I can only imagine, well, SUCKS when towing. Any chance you have the printout of the specs they were ableto correct it to??? This may be of help to those that can't find a shop that has worked on the lifted Tundras.
Thanks, and love the truck.
I have all the printouts so far, and will make sure I have a copy of the final print out once I find the time to take it to another shop. I will try to post it once I've got it.
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So, with this lift, and the other similar sized lifts out there (Camburg, Toytec, etc.), does anyone know whether it's the tire width or the tire height that limits the max tire size to 305/65/R18?
Also, what's the width of our factory aluminum rims?
So, with this lift, and the other similar sized lifts out there (Camburg, Toytec, etc.), does anyone know whether it's the tire width or the tire height that limits the max tire size to 305/65/R18?
Also, what's the width of our factory aluminum rims?
Thanks.
The TRD 18" aluminum wheels are 18x8s
It is the width stopping us, we would need off set wheels to clear the a-arms and the some of the other suspension parts. Trimming or bending the skid plate is 1 thing, but the sway bar is right there too. We may be able to go a little wider, but not much.
In this picture you can see where I bent the skid plate so my 305s will fit with out rubbing (look for the "jaw" marks from my pipe wrench). The sway bar is just above and it's pretty darn close at full lock.
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I love the metric system, except when it comes to tires. So, accoridng to Metric Tire Conversion Calculator : Raingler.com, 305/65R18s are 33.6" X 12", so I wonder if 35" X 11.50"s would fit? I'm not so interested in additional girth, as I am length. Wait a minute, I was thinking about something else, I meant I'm not so interested in additional width, as I am height.
I love the metric system, except when it comes to tires. So, accoridng to Metric Tire Conversion Calculator : Raingler.com, 305/65R18s are 33.6" X 12", so I wonder if 35" X 11.50"s would fit? I'm not so interested in additional girth, as I am length. Wait a minute, I was thinking about something else, I meant I'm not so interested in additional width, as I am height.
Anyone know or tried?
Yes the 35x11.5s will fit, not problem, I don't think you even have to bend the skid plate.
I assume you may be thinking of the Toyo's? I was torn between them and the BFGs, only went with the BFGs cause they are what I have always run. Next time, I'll likely try the Toyo's.
Someone has posted pics of his with the Toyo AT 35x11.5x18s. If I can track them down, I will post a link to it in a minute...
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Thanks! I'm a fan of Michelin LTX M/S tires and get 65,000+ out of them, but Michelin is behind the times on what tire sizes they offer. I just checked, and according to their website, they don't make any 285/75/18s tires at all. I'm not to keen on the BFGs, as in my experience they don't last but 20k miles, 30k max on big heavy trucks. Sure, they last longer on lighter vehicles, but that's not what I have. I get 30k max out of my BFG mudders on my F-250 work truck (w/ 1,100 lbs in the back at all times).
Like most people, whether they admit it/realize it, or not, I put 99% of my miles on the pavement, and most are on the highway for me. We do multiple long-mileage trips every year. I'll probably wait until the factory tires wear out, and then see who's making 285/75/18s and see what the options are. I simply won't pay $200 for a tire to have it last 20-30k miles. Now, I wonder if that size tire will fit underneath for the spare??? I can mount it in-bed if it doesn't, and then mount a spare fuel tank underneath in that case, if anyone decides to manufacturer one. Course it wouldn't be too hard to make one either. Thanks for the info. Now, if only my factory tires would wear out...
Here is the link I was looking for...
For those that like the Toyos...New tires!!!! 35s
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I put 305x65x18 BFG's on MotoMetal wheels...the backspacing helped me clear the upper A arm but I had a slight bit of rubbing on the front fenders at full lock in reverse. I removed those little mud flap things (?) and now I have no problems.
__________________ Black 2007 D/C Limited 4x4, seems to have ALL the options, Flowmaster Dual Delta 40's, K&N drop in filter, Rhino Liner', 3" frt 1" rear Daystar leveling kit, BFG Radial All Terrain TA's 305x65x18, Moto Metal M0951's in Chrome 18x9. Fully DeBadged , Stebel horn, C/W grill, TRD Swaybar, Wet O's, Craven Speed Stubby Antenna, 10,000 lb winch, H11 bulbs, Production date 8/07
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Just thought I'd add my recent experience: Got the Truxx 3" leveler put on and also tossed a set of 305/70R18 MT Baja ATZ on the stock wheels. Had to take off the front mud flaps and trim the skid plate a bit.
Also get a bit of rub (not 100% sure where) when wheels are at full turn, but not noticeable unless I crank the wheel to pull a U.
Just thought I'd add my recent experience: Got the Truxx 3" leveler put on and also tossed a set of 305/70R18 MT Baja ATZ on the stock wheels. Had to take off the front mud flaps and trim the skid plate a bit.
Also get a bit of rub (not 100% sure where) when wheels are at full turn, but not noticeable unless I crank the wheel to pull a U.
Get some pics up when you get a chance
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