I've got one too! Got a black one at Bed Bath and Beyond, of all places.
Be sure it is unfolded fully before stepping out onto it. (Ask me how I know.)
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2007 5.7 CrewMax Limited 2WD; Pyrite Mica/ Red Rock Leather
20" Alloy | Nav-JBL | Moonroof | Sonar | Cold Kit | Daytime Running Lights | BedRug | ConsoleVault | SoftTopper | TRD sway bar | Weatherguard Tool Box
NAV Mods: Speed Pulse Generator | AUX video input
Buy your truck outside of the Gulf States Toyota monopoly if you don't want to compromise.
I picked up something similar at Northern Tool, it's an aluminum step about 24" wide x 12" deep x 15" tall. Folded up it fits nicely in my toolbox and I think it's rated for 350#.
As far as the bed goes, the deep bed is one of the reasons I went with a Tundra vs a Tacoma. I also have a cargo gate which I use to divide the last 2 ft of the bed so I can just drop the tailgate and use that space for easy acess for smaller stuff like cans of paint, hand tools, groceries, etc.
You should see what the tall bed does to a ladder rack. I'm 6' and have fairly long arms but it is all I can do to reach the ladders on the rack. The rack has metal loops welded to the tube frame on the top sides, obviously to keep things on the rack, and the height from the ground to the top of the rear loops is 7'5". No parking in any garage unless it is a commercial business with a tall overhead door. The truck is a beast and I'm loving it.
I picked up something similar at Northern Tool, it's an aluminum step about 24" wide x 12" deep x 15" tall. Folded up it fits nicely in my toolbox and I think it's rated for 350#.
Does anyone know with the bed being so deep can you use a bed extender (flipped in) underneath a bakflip toneau cover. I had a Dodge Dakota once and you could not because the extender was too high for the cover when flipped in. I am just curious if that is not a problem with the deep bed on the 07 Tundras.
I remember the first trucks I noticed the DEEP beds with were the 1/2 ton F150s. I think as far as functionality goes, yeah you can carry more junk in the bed with the higher sides. I think this is a very common design lately, if you also look at the Avalanche and the Ridgeline has the same look (though I haven't been up close to a Ridgeline and looked at the bed)
As a shorter guy (5'7) I end up hopping into the back of the truck regularly, but it doesn't bother me. I don't mind the deeper bed, but I haven't really had to make full use of it yet.
I agree, the truck is too tall and the bed a little high- but they are all like that unless you buy a little truck. The bed and tailgate are also pretty thin. I had to drill holes to reinforce the front with stainless steel for the dirt bike. It was like drilling through a beer can. Again - Not just a Toyota issue, the other trucks have made a lot of the same changes. I still like the truck, they are great to drive and own.
I agree, the truck is too tall and the bed a little high- but they are all like that unless you buy a little truck. The bed and tailgate are also pretty thin. I had to drill holes to reinforce the front with stainless steel for the dirt bike. It was like drilling through a beer can. Again - Not just a Toyota issue, the other trucks have made a lot of the same changes. I still like the truck, they are great to drive and own.
You have a picture of that? did you reinforce only the front of the bed or the tailgate as well?
__________________ TUNDRA786
2007 Tundra Crew Max 4.7 TRD 4x4
285/65/18's with BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's
BedRug, Undercover, Bed Extender, Husky Liners
I looked at the tailgate long a hard for a way to put some strength in it. I could not find a straight line to try and apply anything. the only reasonable thing I can do for the tailgate is to use the 28" wide ramp. The dirt bike weighs 255 fueled up and I am close to 180 with gear on. At 435 lbs I just walk it up in 1st gear. If anyone volunteers to help push, I keep them off the ramp. If the gates are failing that bad, I'll end up replacing mine, hopefully in the warranty period.
The front of the bed is a different story. I had a machinist cut stainless for reinforcement with good results and very little flex when tying two bikes against the front of the bed. I'll post some pictures for you later today or next day. It should give you some options.
As a sidenote and not trying to hijack this post. I followed 'Wiley's recommendation for modifying a stant locking gas cap. Then I removed some of the base threads with a ball grinder. I will give it two tanks of fuel to see if it trips the engine service light, then post pictures with text in the appropriate thread. I think it will be fine as the cap seals up square and snug to the fill tube.
Sorry, no link. I saw one sitting on the shelf of my local Northern Tool store when I bought my truck bed toolbox there. Later I tried searching for it on their website for measurements, couldn't find it. We get their big paper catalog at work and I couldn't find it listed there either. At the time I wasn't sure i hadn't just imagined it until I went back & bought one (about $20 I think) It was in their ladder section, on the same shelf with a portable
folding workbench/ scaffold.
Shows a front eye mount. The angle cleat below is mounted with the existing 6mm bed nut and drilling for the 2nd bolt lower in the pocket. The 1/2" X 1-3/4" bar behind the front of the bed. It was counterbored and drilled by a machinist to fit over the existing 6mm bed nuts. I drilled out the bednuts to accept a 3/8" bolt and used a washer and nut behind the stainless bar. A shot of the rear corner aluminum pocket filler. The hole is tapped 1/2" X 13. Good for a truck rack. The center eye mount for both bikes to anchor. Top three bolts are threaded into the stainless steel bar. Bottom two are anchored with a washer and 'nutbar' in the hollow sheetmetal rib behind the bed. An overview of the hardpoints. The bike 'shoes' are likewise secured by stainless washers and bolts from behind. I used double stick tape to put a washer on a nut and extended an end wrench with a common yard stick to hold it from behind. Stainless can gall over time so I lubed the fasteners with a waterproof grease and neverseize mix. It works well on the dirt bike.
If you want to put a bolt or a bar threaded for multiple bolts in that hollow rib. It's real easy if you cut some cardboard 4" wide and use 2" packing tape to hold the bar at the same height the holes were drilled. In this case after the 2 bolts were tensioned, I drilled another hole through the bed and bolt bar to use a 3/16" X 3/8" AL pop rivet. The bar stays there if I pull off the center eye mount.
What's really funny is that when the 1st Gen Tundra came out, there was a lot of critiscism that the bed depth was too shallow. I guess you're damned if you do and damned if you don't.
Can't please every one, can we?
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Tundra DC, 5.7 CAI (by AFE) 22 inch Magnaflow, long bed, 4x4, leather, 6 inch Pro Comp lift, Hypertech in line speedometer calibrator module, 5000 lbs Ride Rite air bags on rear,35's Toyos, 18x8 1/2 polished black rims, rear view camera, rear sonar, spray on liner, bug shield, Tint front wdws (20% to match de rear), nerf bars, tool box, pioneer nav with JBL amp, blue tooth, XM radio, DVD player, 6 CD, Hunter bull bar (kept towing hooks), KC lights, tow mirrors, all weather mats, Viper 5900 alarm.
Re: bed depth
TUNDRA786
Shows a front eye mount. The angle cleat below is mounted with the existing 6mm bed nut and drilling for the 2nd bolt lower in the pocket.
The 1/2" X 1-3/4" bar behind the front of the bed. It was counterbored and drilled by a machinist to fit over the existing 6mm bed nuts. I drilled out the bednuts to accept a 3/8" bolt and used a washer and nut behind the stainless bar.
A shot of the rear corner aluminum pocket filler. The hole is tapped 1/2" X 13. Good for a truck rack.
The center eye mount for both bikes to anchor. Top three bolts are threaded into the stainless steel bar. Bottom two are anchored with a washer and 'nutbar' in the hollow sheetmetal rib behind the bed.
An overview of the hardpoints. The bike 'shoes' are likewise secured by stainless washers and bolts from behind. I used double stick tape to put a washer on a nut and extended an end wrench with a common yard stick to hold it from behind. Stainless can gall over time so I lubed the fasteners with a waterproof grease and neverseize mix. It works well on the dirt bike.
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