I have a 120,000 warranty. At around 100,000 I'm going to have them do it. That gives me another 20,000 miles under warranty in case something goes wrong.
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07 Tundra DCSB, 5.7, Blue Streak Metallic, 4X4, SR5, TRD, BU, CK, DZ, FE, HM, MG, OF, Brushed Stainless steps, sill protectors, USMC lighted hitch plug and assorted stickers and license plate brackets, rollup bed cover, Rhino Liner, Mesh Grill backing, Black Wheelskin steering wheel cover, Wade in channel vent visors, under rear seat storage, PRG mini spring pack, Proforce rear exit cat-back exhaust, aFe CAI, TRD rear sway bar, A.R.E. MX series Cap.
Not an easy procedure without the Toyota service manual. My plan is to dump it at 25K, measure what comes out, and replaced the exact amount through the fill plug. If 5 quarts drains, I will put 5 back in. Drive for a few hundred miles, do again, and call it good until 75K when I will repeat it again. I dont care if I get it all out.........and I am trusting that it was filled to the correct amount from the factory. I like to replenish rather than replace everything in autos, but that is just me.
__________________ TOYOTA ONLY HOUSEHOLD
2007 Tundra CrewMax 4x4
2008 4runner SR5 4x4
1990 Land Cruiser FJ62
1972 Land Cruiser FJ40
Not an easy procedure without the Toyota service manual. My plan is to dump it at 25K, measure what comes out, and replaced the exact amount through the fill plug. If 5 quarts drains, I will put 5 back in. Drive for a few hundred miles, do again, and call it good until 75K when I will repeat it again. I dont care if I get it all out.........and I am trusting that it was filled to the correct amount from the factory. I like to replenish rather than replace everything in autos, but that is just me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVOL ARDNUT
And without dipstick, no way of knowing?
The Tundra uses separate fill and overflow ports. You add fluid through the fill port till it runs out the overflow port. Now it's full. Simple.
i..m.o. DON'T WAIT UNTIL 120,000 MILES TO REPLACE TRANNY FLUID.
IT HAS BEEN SHOWN THAT IF YOU DO, YOU WILL SOON BE REPLACING TRANSMISSION AS WELL.
LOOK AT AUDI, MERCEDEZ THREDS FOR THESE SO CALLED NO MAINTENANCE TRANNYS.
EX. C230 MERCEDEZ IS SEALED. WHAT IT HAS BEEN SHOWN IS THAT IF YOU DON'T DO IT AT 20 -40 THOUSAND AND WAIT UNTIL 100, 000, YOU WILL BE REPLACING TRANNY THERE AFTER AS WELL. SO AFTER 100, 000 MILES, NO ONE TOUCHES TRANNY UNTIL IT DIES.
I'm still formulating my plan of attack on tranny fluid changes:
Periodic Partial-Change -or-
The first school of thought which has already been presented is to drain the pan, measure the amount drained, and refill the same amount. If you do this periodically (maybe every 10k?), you'll get the wear metals out and get fresh fluid in. This method is very simple. Checking the fluid level in the tranny seems pretty simple.
Full Flush?
A full flush is very appealing. It gets everything out now. If you've got a truck with a towing package, you may be able to use the tranny cooler lines. I've seen several methods:
1) Disconnect the tranny fluid lines at the cooler and put the return hose (the hose returning fluid to the tranny) in a bucket of new fluid and putting the supply hose (the hose supplying fluid to the cooler from the tranny) into another bucket. Start the engine, put the tranny in N and let the tranny pump the old fluid out and suck new fluid in. This method assumes that the tranny both pumps fluid out to the cooler as well as scavenges (or sucks) fluid back into the tranny. I don't know if this is how the AB60E/F works.
2) I think you could do the same thing as above but use two buckets that seal. One bucket is filled with fresh fluid, the other collects dirty fluid, but connect the two sealed buckets together so that the pressure going into the waste bucket pressurizes the supply bucket. This might work. The danger I see is that if they leak, you'll be forcing more fluid out of the tranny than back into the tranny.
3) I've also seen methods where you add fluid via a funnel into the return line as the tranny pumps out the old fluid. Trick is to put the fluid in at the same rate it's coming out! Probably tricky.
Fluid to Use?
Toyota WS seems to be a very special tranny fluid - or at least Toyota thinks it is. The service manual notes it's very low viscosity (thin) and has very little viscosity change between cold and hot. I've heard rumors both here and on BITOG that WS is fully synthetic, which I don't doubt. It's easier to get a fully syn fluid to perform at low viscosity with controlled viscosity vs temperature change.
* Toyota WS would be the natural choice to use. Posts here say it's about $5 to $6 a quart at the deal.
* Red Line Oil has a fluid that they claim meets Toyota WS specification.
* Chevron Multi-Vehicle ATF claims to meet Toyota WS specs. This shocked me, but check for yourself:
Two things are striking to me about the Chevron fluid:
First, it seems to meet SO MANY different ATF specifications. Yet, being that Aisin AW supplies trannies to Toyota, Volvo, etc..., perhaps this isn't so shocking.
Second, it doesn't seem to be a fully synthetic fluid. Or, it's not more than a Group III Synthetic:
It is formulated with premium, severely
hydroprocessed base stocks and carefully crafted
additives that provide oxidation and thermal stability,
friction control, load-carrying ability, corrosion and
wear protection. It helps protect against the formation
of sludge, varnish, other harmful deposits, and foam.
Amsoil doesn't yet make a fluid that they say meets WS specs.
So, I'm not yet married to any fluid or change methodology...
Why not get it done at the dealership so there won't be any warranty issues? To me, that's worth more than any non-dealership money savings you might get.
I haven’t had the time to look in the factory service manual yet to determine if this can be done on the Toyota Trans or not, but….
I have changed out the trany fluid on a MB sealed unit buy using compressed air at about 40 - 50 PSI.
I used a 5 gal air tank, filled with new trany fluid. Then pressurized with air.
Disconnected the trany cooler lines and then connected the air tank to the return line.
Turned tank upside down so that trany fluid would come out of hose before the air did.
I don’t know if I got every drop of old oil out but I feel confident I did manage to get most of it out. Sure beat the dealer almost $500 charge to do the work.
This does over fill the trany, so you have to leave the overflow plug out for a few minutes to drain the excess.
Many Trany oil change places use a similar method to perform this function.
I will look at the Toyota A6 in the manual and see if it might work before actually trying it in the next 50K miles.
Check Other Vehicle Types With The Same Idea At 100, 000 Miles, Tranny Failures Thereafter.
I Think Toyota Is Doing What Germans Are, But German Cars That Said Do It At 100, 000 Or 120, 000 Found Out Trannys Were Going Out After Fluid Change At Those Miles. So They Went Back To Every 30, 000 To 40, 000 Miles.
Tundra Tranny Is Not Cheap And You Will Be Out Of Waranty At That Time. I Know This From My 99 C 230 With Its So Called No Maintenance Tranny. Above Applies. At 100, 000 Miles M.b. And Outside Mechanic Say To Leave It Alone Now Until It Dies Cause If I Do Tranny Fluid Change, High Chance Of Tranny Going Out.
Transmission Fluid Change
Linear Mode
