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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "How to upgrade 6-disc unit?", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I plan on buying a new 2008 Tundra SR5 Double Cab soon. I can't decide whether to go with the plain 6-disc or the JBL system. I have listened to both, and honestly, thought the standard system had as much bass as the JBL. I have a 10" Kicker L5 in my truck now and love the way it sounds. What do I need to do in order to get decent bass like that in the Tundra? The dealer said he could upgrade to the JBL for $750. I want to keep the factory head unit. My plan was to put a 10" sub under the rear seat along with the amp, but should I wire up another amp for the OEM speakers, run them off the HU, or replace all with aftermarket and amp them? I need suggestions badly so I know which route I'm going to take. Would I need a sound processor for this? I want to have a volume control knob for the sub, so I can turn it down if needed. I would like to be able to keep it at or below $1,000. I have used the search function and read about everything I could find, but still haven't read exactly what I'm looking for.
Last edited by KYmxracer52; 11-13-2007 at 11:23 PM.
Reason: typo
get the JBL even if it's just for the wheel mounted controls and leather wrapped steering wheel. I wish I had. Plus with the JBL it's much easier to upgrade many more items on the truck..i.e.Navigation.
For the other stuff you should probably just upgrade the HU and add an amp the stock speakers are garbage so that would kind of suck if you upgraded the JBL because I don't think the speakers are that much better. I don't know the specs on the L5 but you don't have very much mounting depth at all under the rear seats so that may or may not fit well. You might have to get a different sub and just re-use your amp.
Right now I am just using a line-out converter which I used to add some subs. I replaced my rear speakers and haven't replaced the fronts yet. I've found that the stock fronts perform much better now that they are only trying to reproduce the highs and some mid-bass. Don't get me wrong they aren't anything to brag about but until I get a couple grand more to throw at the system its a huge improvement over the stock setup. Easily done for under 1000k. You can probably even get a sound processor and some new speakers and put in your sub for under 1000k if you are doing the work yourself.
I am probably going to use a sound processor (Kenwood KOS-V500) and put an LCD touchscreen control for that in someplace that I can hide it to keep that stock look.
Anyways, good luck.
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'07 Silver Tundra DC SR5 TRD, Tow Pkg, BedRug bedliner, Tinted, De-badged, Volant CAI, two Pioneer Premier 12" subs, Eclipse 34230 Amp, Eclipse 32430 Amp, MB Speakers, 2 Farad Cap
'86 Black Porsche 944 Turbo, magnesium wheels, boost control valve, Chipped ~300hp
'05 Black/Tribal Honda CBR 600RR, smoked windscreen, rear seat cowl, flushies, integrated taillight, fender eliminator kit, Akropovic exhaust
I honestly doubt you'd be able to fit your L5 down there. I had a Kicker L5 in my Expedition and that thing was freakin' awesome.
I called MY dealership and they don't even OFFER installing the JBL system because it's so costly to do, it requires a lot of many hours to fit the speakers, and any other obvious reasons I'm too lazy/tired to think of now. If you're "iffy" I'd just get the JBL because for $750, you get the "better" syste, for like half or more than half the price of what it'd cost to get it installed. The Kicker L5 is an awesome subwoofer and I really hope you can get it mounted. Unfortunately I didn't have a chance to take mine out (sad, I know) before I traded in my Ex. If you do let us know how you do it. I think it might be too tall though, but good luck.
I don't plan on using the L5, I just mentioned it as a reference to the type of bass I want. The box I built for my 98 ext cab chevy was a work of art to make that sub fit under the rear seat. I plan on going with a new shallow-mount sub. I don't want to shim the rear seats any.
As far as steering wheel controls, I don't care. I've never had a vehicle with them, so I'm accustomed to using the HU anyway. I REALLY want to use the stock HU for the look, if it will hold up OK. I will do all the work myself if I go this route. I could use the amp I already have and buy another one. Would component speakers sound better up front? How much trouble is it to wire up 2 seperate amps? Will it put too much strain on the battery/alternator?
I don't plan on using the L5, I just mentioned it as a reference to the type of bass I want. The box I built for my 98 ext cab chevy was a work of art to make that sub fit under the rear seat. I plan on going with a new shallow-mount sub. I don't want to shim the rear seats any.
As far as steering wheel controls, I don't care. I've never had a vehicle with them, so I'm accustomed to using the HU anyway. I REALLY want to use the stock HU for the look, if it will hold up OK. I will do all the work myself if I go this route. I could use the amp I already have and buy another one. Would component speakers sound better up front? How much trouble is it to wire up 2 seperate amps? Will it put too much strain on the battery/alternator?
Im sure in the end since you sound like someone who likes a higher end sound system, you will be unhappy with the results from ANY of the stock stuff. You will always want more than it can offer.
With that said get the basic single disc stock HU (the cheapest since its gonna come out) and install a complete aftermarket system. HU, speaks, sub, amps. Wire it up seperate from the factory harness so your systm is isolated from the vehicle wiring. The factory speaker wires are 18g at best anyhowm that aint gonna work to good down the road.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Pioneer 10" sealed sub box, Clarion 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
Just changing the speakers makes a huge difference. (for the better) The stock ones are the cheapest speakers I have ever removed from a $30,000 truck. It's amazing to me that Toyota was so cheap when they picked the speakers. The magnet is the size of a quarter.
I don't plan on using the L5, I just mentioned it as a reference to the type of bass I want. The box I built for my 98 ext cab chevy was a work of art to make that sub fit under the rear seat. I plan on going with a new shallow-mount sub. I don't want to shim the rear seats any.
As far as steering wheel controls, I don't care. I've never had a vehicle with them, so I'm accustomed to using the HU anyway. I REALLY want to use the stock HU for the look, if it will hold up OK. I will do all the work myself if I go this route. I could use the amp I already have and buy another one. Would component speakers sound better up front? How much trouble is it to wire up 2 seperate amps? Will it put too much strain on the battery/alternator?
The strain all depends on how much juice you are going to use, I have an 1100W amp hooked up for my subs and I haven't had any battery drain (although I initially thought there was). Two amps won't be any more difficult just use a distribution block, wiring from your batt goes there and from there you can run the wires to your separate amps.
On the stock HU thing, I am totally with you. I just haven't gone there yet. There are a bunch of aftermarket processors though that should do the trick, alot of people mention the JL Cleansweep. I am thinking of going the kenwood route because they make a touchscreen LCD Control to go with it (thats if I can figure out some way to fab a nice hiding location for it).
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'07 Silver Tundra DC SR5 TRD, Tow Pkg, BedRug bedliner, Tinted, De-badged, Volant CAI, two Pioneer Premier 12" subs, Eclipse 34230 Amp, Eclipse 32430 Amp, MB Speakers, 2 Farad Cap
'86 Black Porsche 944 Turbo, magnesium wheels, boost control valve, Chipped ~300hp
'05 Black/Tribal Honda CBR 600RR, smoked windscreen, rear seat cowl, flushies, integrated taillight, fender eliminator kit, Akropovic exhaust
The DC supposedly has the same subwoofer as the Crewmax, but the DC system I listened to didn't even sound like the sub was turned on. Very dissapointing to say the least. I'm looking into getting a Crewmax now, so I'm wondering if the bass in it sucks just as bad.
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How to upgrade 6-disc unit?
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Pioneer 10" sealed sub box, Clarion 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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