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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "First oil change in 3 hours", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Neen first oil change 4600 mi. called dealer and they don't have toy 0-20 they have toy 5-20 and also Mobil 1 , 0-20. It is cold in Idaho. Help me out. Talk to me. thanks
I went with Mobil One 0W20 at my 5000 mile oil change, cars today come with full synthetic from the factory so I don't buy into the use dino oil until it's broken in theory. The benefit of full synthetic is faster oil pressure up times in cold weather, which is a very good thing.
__________________ Nick Brewer NickBrewer@msn.com
2007 Toyota Tundra RCSB 5.7L
1988 Toyota MR2 Supercharged
1987 Toyota Corolla GT-S Coupe
1979 Yamaha RD400 Daytona Special
2003 Yamaha FZ-1
Last edited by NickBrewer; 12-01-2007 at 01:36 PM.
i dont think toyotas factory fill is full synthetic- and while its true that
vehicles today come with full synthetic from the factory, thats usually
reserved for corvettes, vipers, srt8 dodges/chryslers, ect, built with closer tolerances and that run at higher temps- piston rings do not tend to seat well when using full synthetic in engines that do not call for it from the get go- roadpig
Word to the wise, when you do go the full synthetic route, go to walmart and buy it there. Two 5 quart jugs for $20 a piece. Have them fill 8 quarts up and then make them give you back the extra two quarts. Shouldn't cost more than $20 for the filter and the labor together at the dealership. So for just over $60 you can have full synethic, + two quarts that after 4 oil changes will give you a free one for $20, all for the price of a dino change.
I personally got mine changed at 1000 miles for free, changed it again at like 4 to full synethic. No problems yet and I got like 6600 on mine now.
i changed to mobil 1 at 3k miles no problems i also switched over to mobil 1 in mt t-100 at 130k miles no problems it's got 190k on it now no leaks no burning just runs like a top ! i agree the Wal-Mart way is the only way to go when getting the mobil 1 i've got 2 bottles sittn in there for the tundra and 1 bottle for the t-100 gives you a good piece of mind !
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Not all synthetic oils are the same. Mobile is a Group III synthetic, not a Group IV. Even though the label might say Full Synthetic, it doesn't mean the same thing for all oils. As for extended drain intervals, it is fine to run extended drain intervals with a Group IV synthetic oil if you couple it with better filtration. Not all oil filters are created equal either. Fram and other cheap oil filters don't filter much below 35 micron and are just cellulose (paper based) filters. Higher quality oil filters have synthetic media, not paper, and filter much better. AMSOIL Eao oil filters filter down to 15 micron, and their bypass filtration systems filter down to 2 micron at 98% efficiency.
There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.
The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics. Mobil 1 is a Group III synthetic. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic.
In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.
Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.
Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.
One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.
These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.
Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.
Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.
Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.
Wow Duluth, excellent write-up. Thanks for that!!!
I looked at the AMSOIL site, and there is only one 5-20 oil. Seems like the 0-20 that replaced the 5-20 is a better oil anyways. Any harm in running 0-20 year round in the Carolinas? Thoughts?
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