Did you go over the clear plastic or remove it? and did you go over the wires? These door panels are killing me with their rattles during semi- hard bass. The wifes tahoe panel doesn't vibrate this hard. What gives? why all the vibration in the plastic panel? and will dynamat cure the issue? what can I do to the panel (not door) itself to reduce the rattle?
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5.7L White Limited Crewmax 4x4 w/ RedRock Leather, moonroof,power rear window,all the toys minus nav. readilift, toyo 325/60x18 toyos on KMC 952
I have matted all four doors. Remove the plastic and work around the wires. Remember that you don't have to cover evry square inch to get the desired efect. I cut 4 4" strips and put then on the inside skin of the door. Then I put one piece over the large opening that the plastic used to cover. You will have to mold this inward and do some edge slices to get it to allow for the pooch on the inside of the door panels. THen I covered the rest of the holes with pieces that were proper size....I slit the one top piece to allow for the door handle and lock to come thru, but the wires are in those black sleeves now, so no need for straws!!
Yeah the doors do rattle pretty hard and I don't even have the bass up very much. Is there a significant difference between Dynamat, Dynamat Xtreme and Fat Mat. Dyna stuff seems really pricey next to Fat Mat but if its better......
good question there is something called b quiet also.......
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5.7L White Limited Crewmax 4x4 w/ RedRock Leather, moonroof,power rear window,all the toys minus nav. readilift, toyo 325/60x18 toyos on KMC 952
My installer used dynomat extreme. He did the inside of the door, like in the speaker hole cut out. Did an area around there. Then did the back of the door panel.
Hey guys, go read this experiment and gather your own conclusions from his: Sound Deadener Showdown
It is very informative and helps you understand the concept of sound deadening. I've got some pictures of what I did to my doors in my gallery also. If you have questions about the process, let me know.
To address your question of whether or not to go over the plastic...
No. Remove the plastic. Get some roofing tin flashing and some silicone sealant. Cut the flashing to fit the holes of where the plastic was, use the silicone to hold it down. And then roll the sound deadener over the flashing and everything else. Be sure to mark where the holes are for the door retainer clips and screws, cut them out with a sharp knife, scissors or exacto.
To test where exactly you need the dynamat or other sound deadener you have, do the tap test. Anywhere you hear a slight reverb, adhere some SD to it, and tap again. Repeat process all over your rig.
Careful, its addicting.
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
all the products are basically the same derivitives...an asphalt tar like sticky base with a leaded sheet on one side. I think that Dynamat is a great product, but very pricey if you are going to do allot of your truck like I did. I used D-Extreme on my 4-Runner years ago only because a dealer had some on clearance. Fat-Mat is what I used this time and it seems to have the same qualities as D-Mat stuff. I also found a product called GatorSkin, it is a polybutyl based product, that I used on some of the 4-Runner, I have some pics on another site...message me for the address.Not sure how they feel about linking to other car sites on here. I can't give any info on B-quiet stuff as I have never used it. Once I figure out all the ins and outs of this site, I will post pics of my entire project.
Did you go over the clear plastic or remove it? and did you go over the wires? These door panels are killing me with their rattles during semi- hard bass. The wifes tahoe panel doesn't vibrate this hard. What gives? why all the vibration in the plastic panel? and will dynamat cure the issue? what can I do to the panel (not door) itself to reduce the rattle?
I went right over the plastic weather barrier on my doors. I didnt cover the wires though. I unclipped them and Dynamated under them then reattached them. Never know when I might need to get to them.
For extra rattle protection, my neighbor was having new carpet installed and I was able to get alot of the excess new padding that was left over. I cut it to fit the door panel and layed it inside. That helped out even more with the sound deadening.
thanks guys ...I used scosch accumat in my 95 cherokee and it was "vault-like" so i will do the doors and whatever else i can....anybody figure how to keep the jack cover on a SC from rattling?
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5.7L White Limited Crewmax 4x4 w/ RedRock Leather, moonroof,power rear window,all the toys minus nav. readilift, toyo 325/60x18 toyos on KMC 952
I peeled the plastic and then did the outside-facing inside of the door, did the metal on the inside of the door, and then put the plastic back on. I did not do the wires. And I also would recommend RAAMAudio.
Will.
__________________ 2007 Tundra CrewMax SR5 4x4, Desert Sand Mods:Line-X, JCW Black Nerf Bars, Bug Guard, K&N filter, removed HC filter, Truxx 3" Lift, Painted TRD rims, Hankook 275/70/R18 ATM RF10 tires Audio:RAAMaudio, Polk 650 & 690's, Kicker ZX700.5 Amp, Kicker 12" shallow sub, Eclipse AVN 6610 Nav/DVD, Kicker KS13 tweets, Zune 80GB media player Future Mods: Zune dock near cup holders, Hi-Lift jack mounted in bed
I went right over the plastic, just be sure to leave enough “flex” where the hole is for the arm rest so you can close the door panel. Also, the door rattling is something that will get better with this application, but keep in mind that this isn’t a cure all for that. Just be sure to work around the wires and cabling and to ensure that seams are covered where possible. Have fun!
? for those that have Dynamat.
2007 Tundra CrewMax SR5 4x4, Desert Sand
Linear Mode
