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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Brief how-to for leveling kit newbs....", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I got my Top Gun Customz 2.25" leveling kit on Thursday. Placed order Monday. Great shipping time!! Put it on Sunday, took a little less than 90 minutes. Do one side at a time. There are no destructions, so I'll give you the run down. I used several jacks and have a big compressor, so it may take a little longer if you don't have access to those things.
Here it is in a nut shell. I'll briefly run it down for those who are thinking about attempting the install themselves. If I am unclear on an aspect, please ask, as I have installed literally 100's of suspension kit in the last 10 years, and may be vague in places. Here goes:
Chock rear tires. Jack up from right in front of the tranny crossmember, then jackstand right in front of that. Place floor jack under control arm and get the tire off the ground. Remove tire(21mm). Loosen the metal clips that hold the ABS wire(3) to spindle and upper control arm. Remove the (12mm) bolt on the frame that holds the rubber brake line. Remove sway bar endlink(19mm). Remove cotter pin on outer tie-rod end(diagonal pliers), then loosen castle nut(24mm). Leave the nut loosely threaded, and with a small sledge(5lb), hit the raised rib on the forward facing part of the KNUCKLE, right in front of the bolt. Took me 10-12 good raps. DON't hit the nut or stud. Once it pops loose, remove nut and let the tie-rod hang. Repeat this on the upper ball joint (18mm).Don't remove the nut yet. Loosen and loosen the lower shock bolt (18mm). Its the biggest shock bolt I've ever seen!!! Place a medium prybar into the space under the bottom of the shock and mount. Now remove the shock bolt. Next remove the ball joint nut, and SLOWLY lower the jack. Now there should be no tension on the shock or control arms. Remove the (4) 14mm upper strut nuts. Use the pry bar you placed earlier to pop the lower strut out of the control arm. The strut assembly should now be on the ground. Next install the spacer and tighten the (4) factory nuts to the strut bolts. The strut is marked (OUT), make sure it goes back that way. Re-install is the reverse of what you just did. It does take some persuasion in the form of a LARGE prypar to get the lower c-arm to drop far enough down to reinstall the strut. The top goes in first and just start all the new washers and Nylock nuts on top. Use the medium pry bar to compress the strut a little while you either sit on the large prybar, or have a buddy hold the bar down and your beer up, while you manuver the strut back in. After the first side the second side will take half as long. Get an alignment, as there is now too much positive camber, and too much toe-in now. While it advertised 2.25", I got 2.625" of lift, and it is as close to level as you can ask for.
I like this kit as it doesn't pre-load the spring, so your ride is the same, and in my case better. Why??? Because there is an extra 1"+ between the control arm and the bumpstops. Good luck, and be safe. As always, user assumes all risk involved in working under a 5,000 lb. truck, and I won't be held responsible if you turn your truck into a pile of useless parts. I will however try to help you with any problems you should encounter.
I will post pics of before and after, when the freezing drizzle lets up fo shizzle my nizzle. Its off the hizzle, fo rizzle.
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07 Tundra DC TRD 4.7, THE Blue Streak
Top Gun Customz levelling kit
Tinted Winder, mostly shaved emblems
Kobalt toolbox, Silverstar bulbs
Removed charcoal filter,
pillar vinyl and gayass pinstripes
Coming attractions: Tires and stereo upgrades
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Brief how-to for leveling kit newbs....
, while you manuver the strut back in. After the first side the second side will take half as long. Get an alignment, as there is now too much positive camber, and too much toe-in now. While it advertised 2.25", I got 2.625" of lift, and it is as close to level as you can ask for. 
2007 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Nautical Blue, 5.7, 4X4, Toytec 2.5" front lift, 1" rear block, Diff. drop kit, BFG AT KOs 305/65R/18, JVC KW-AVX810 head unit, HD Radio, Sirius, JVC CH X1500 12 disc CD changer, Scosche piano black dash kit, Alpine 550 4 channel amp 90 watts per channel, Focal 165 V1 components front, Cliff Designs CD60-4C Components rear, Pioneer 10" sealed sub box, Clarion 10" shallow sub, Alpine 450 mono amp 220 watts, R/F 1 farad digital capacitor, All 4 doors and rear wall DynaMatt, Hard wired Escort Passport 8500 X50, Boyo VLT 300 rear veiw camera.
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