I live in Arizona and my DC rides great everywhere I have been in the state. When driving on some of the S. Cal freeways, I too get the dreaded bounce. It has not been as bad as some have described, but does get darn annoying. I have experienced bed bounce on other makes of trucks also on those same Calif roads. I'll add the crappy Calif freeways to the list of why I no longer live there. The list is long.
Amen to that!. Yeah at least we can thank Willy for giving us the general idea. We'll all make our own willy bar for over $500 + less.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RIjon
Paying shipping on 300lbs of steel plating is retarded.
Go to yellowpages.com and search for steel. Call them up and tell them you want some half inch plate cut to X size and go pick it up. Drill some holes, paint it up and away you go.
If you want, buy some chain from the local hardware store along with some stainless fasteners and poof you have a "willybar"
I haven't received my truck yet, but if it bounces like that I am gonna be pissed!
I looked at the willybar site yesterday & thought this should be easy enough to make myself, so I started to figure it up. I will get you a ballpark price on what it will take to make your own. Just remember, steel is typically priced per pound, and is also very influenced by the price of oil, so the heavier the steel object is and the more expensive oil is, the higher something like a willybar will cost. A 60' long x 12" wide piece of HRS plate weighs 100 lbs., which I suspect is the dimension they are using. At current pricing of 75 cents per pound, you are looking at $75 per plate, so $225 just for material. We get our powder coating done at $1.35/sq. ft., so you are looking at a minimum of $42.53 total just for that. A good poor-mans way would be just to rattle can primer & paint.
I would use two 5/8-11 x 3" Hexagon Socket Flat Countersunk Head Cap Screws to fasten the eye nuts. The eye nut would be a McMaster-Carr # 3019T190 which is galvanized, and $7.16 a pop, plus shipping. The stainless ones are about four times more expensive, so it pays to look fancy. If you have a tonneau cover, I would stick with the galvanized.
Right now I’d place 11/16" diameter thru holes about 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" from each corner. The bottom plate would be countersunk for the flat head screws.
Get a 10 piece bag of McMaster-Carr 3824T44 S.S. Forged D-Shackles with the captive self-locking screw pins for $22.77 plus shipping.
Not counting fab costs, here’s what you are looking at as a minimum.
HRS plate material costs = $225
Powder coating = $42.53
McMaster Carr Hardware = $37.09
Total = $304.62
This is just a ballpark price and does not include fabrication & fasteners, but it gives you some idea.
Paying shipping on 300lbs of steel plating is retarded.
Go to yellowpages.com and search for steel. Call them up and tell them you want some half inch plate cut to X size and go pick it up. Drill some holes, paint it up and away you go.
If you want, buy some chain from the local hardware store along with some stainless fasteners and poof you have a "willybar"
MODS AstroStart auto start, TrailFX Nerf bars, Tundra AW floor mats, Access Limited Edition soft tonneau cover, vent shades, magnaflow exhaust, Color match headlights, Volant CAI, fully debadged, bolt on Billet Grill, LED interior lights, door sill protectors,Truxxx Leveling Kit, 20% tint front windows 5% tint back three windows, TRD rear sway bar, sport shifter, sport brake/gas pedals, color match door handles
After I get off my @$$ mods Power locking tailgate, auto open tailgate, Line-x Bed Liner, rear window button moved on the dash, RAV interior with heated seats
If anyone is willing to pay me, I will sell my solution for $100 less than the MSRP of the Willybar.
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I took a brief look under the truck, would it not be possible to mount the extra weight under the bed at the back of the truck, on the outside of the frame where the spare tire is. Basically behind the wheel wells, in front of the bumper. I didn't check how load bearing the areas are but you could probably throw some weight in some form of bolted carrier under there.
That way you'd have the bounce limited more, and still retain your bed. Maybe some sorta locking lynch pin mount in case you wanted to remove it somewhat quickly to regain the payload?
Does anyone out there know the dimensions of the Willybar plates? With all the fab shops in socal area, we can easily have this made, hardware and all. Since the weight is behind the rear wheels, I believe this is a better solution than a shurtrax.
I took a brief look under the truck, would it not be possible to mount the extra weight under the bed at the back of the truck, on the outside of the frame where the spare tire is. Basically behind the wheel wells, in front of the bumper. I didn't check how load bearing the areas are but you could probably throw some weight in some form of bolted carrier under there.
That way you'd have the bounce limited more, and still retain your bed. Maybe some sorta locking lynch pin mount in case you wanted to remove it somewhat quickly to regain the payload?
Here's something I did that seemed to help but I don't think it's quite enough weight to really be effective..
I had an Olympic style Weight (45lb Disc) like you see at the Gym.. I was looking under the truck one day on where I could possibly mount it.. It actually fit perfectly inside the recess of the spare tire.. I locked it into place with some really thick industrial Zip ties and also 2 ratcheting straps.. I didn't want it to fall out so I went overboard on making sure it' was gonna stay in place.
Granted this is only an extra 45lbs and nothing like the required 200-300 that seems to be most effective. This is where I think you'll run into a problem in finding a conventional way to stuff 300lbs under the truck somewhere unless you can come up with something like a willy bar that would work underneath and fit..
How about removing the overload leaf spring from the leaf spring pack? It would reduce the stiffness of the suspension and lower the towing capacity, but that should do the trick. Its a bit labor intensive.
I'm going to chat with an expert suspension designer for off road trucks and see what solutions he can come up with.
I kind of don't like adding weights because it is adding inefficiency. Accelerating 200-300 lbs extra can't be good on fuel consumption.
How about removing the overload leaf spring from the leaf spring pack? It would reduce the stiffness of the suspension and lower the towing capacity, but that should do the trick. Its a bit labor intensive.
I'm going to chat with an expert suspension designer for off road trucks and see what solutions he can come up with.
I kind of don't like adding weights because it is adding inefficiency. Accelerating 200-300 lbs extra can't be good on fuel consumption.
Don't do it, man!!! That has been done by another member here and he found out that the spring pack wasn't rigid enough and the remaining leafs deformed. He said that after a while the rear leaf pack with out the load leaf looked like a "W". Look for a member here that goes by ART64. He has been a very proactive member with different configurations on his own truck and has posted his progress till he was satisfied with the ride quality. If you look back through this thread you may find some of his findings.
__________________
'07 SR5 DC 5.7 Silver Sky Metalic
5% tint rear windows, 2 Flowmaster 40 series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts (not CW), Airaid, Belltech Street preformance rear shocks, DJM 3" arms, belltech flip kit, 22" BOSS 329 w/ 305/45/22 General grabber UHP, G2 bakflip, weathertech window vent shades, 95% debage.
Don't do it, man!!! That has been done by another member here and he found out that the spring pack wasn't rigid enough and the remaining leafs deformed. He said that after a while the rear leaf pack with out the load leaf looked like a "W". Look for a member here that goes by ART64. He has been a very proactive member with different configurations on his own truck and has posted his progress till he was satisfied with the ride quality. If you look back through this thread you may find some of his findings.
That's right. I've done it on my RCSB. Result: deformed leaf springs, harsher ride, axle wrap and putting the springs back together became a super pain. If you don't want the added weight on the truck, get a mini pack to replace the overload springs or get a customized set of leaf springs like I did. Softer ride. Just add air bags for those times when you have to haul/tow heavy. I paid $500 something for the set of springs from Alcan's but it's worth every penny.
Art64, can you give me a little more info on the Alcan spring packs you bought?
When calling Alcan, will they know what is needed? Length, count, rate, etc.. ?
Thank you,
Jon
They already have the stock leaf springs for measurement. I send them my old one (one side). Tom was the guy that took my order and they need: year, model (double cab, regular cab, crewmax, long bed, short bed, 4x4, 4x2), if there is/are tool boxes mounted on the bed, campers, generator, or any item that you'll be carrying almost permanently and the weights of these items, what exactly do you want as far as ride ( comfort, rock climbing, off -roading, long travel, etc), you want stock ride height, lifted, lowered. He'll also asked you to disconect the rear shocks or at least one and test drive the truck to see if the shocks are the ones that needs to be replaced. Took about about 6 weeks ( back in Feb) before I got the springs. The first ones they sent me were for the 1st gen and they admitted that they did not have the specs for the new Tundras.
So I had to measure the stock springs and they made me another set. But everything is good now. The springs are still in good shape. No squeeks, noise, rattles, etc.
bump.
guess no one has installed these or something similar? I heard good things about them from the few people that knew about them but not from anyone that actually owned a tundra that had them put on. Anyone want to be the guinea pig? https://www.sulastic.com/Default.aspx
__________________ 2007 Silver Sky Metalic SR5 TRD 5.7L 4X2 Crewmax.
JBL Sound System
Autodimming Mirror
Bucketseats
Bedliner
(FE, EJ, BU, OF, RL, SO, SR, N1, LU, C4) Just added:
5 piece Carriage Works Billet Grill. No Logo
Bed Extender
Exhaust Tip
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Anodized Aluminum Shift Knob
Door Sills
Sport Pedals
Tow Mirrors
Raptor 4" Stainless Oval Tube Bars
TRD CAI (with HC filter mod)
TRD Sway Bar
Truxxx 3"/1" lift
20% Tinted Front Windows
Bed Rail over OEM Bed Liner
Relocated Rear Window Button
Coin Holder Replaced With Garmin GPS Mount
50 Series Flowmaster
bump.
guess no one has installed these or something similar? I heard good things about them from the few people that knew about them but not from anyone that actually owned a tundra that had them put on. Anyone want to be the guinea pig? https://www.sulastic.com/Default.aspx
I already did some digging on that item and found someone who installed it and said it did NOTHING to resolve the bed bounce and even mentioned making the ride feel worse..
Re: Possible Tundra Bed Bounce CURE FOUND
Re: Possible Tundra Bed Bounce CURE FOUND
Linear Mode
