they do! I got mine.
The free S&H is only for a new amazon customer. So I had to create a new account. A second new account
__________________ 2007 Silver Sky Metalic SR5 TRD 5.7L 4X2 Crewmax.
JBL Sound System
Autodimming Mirror
Bucketseats
Bedliner
(FE, EJ, BU, OF, RL, SO, SR, N1, LU, C4) Just added:
5 piece Carriage Works Billet Grill. No Logo
Bed Extender
Exhaust Tip
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Anodized Aluminum Shift Knob
Door Sills
Sport Pedals
Tow Mirrors
Raptor 4" Stainless Oval Tube Bars
TRD CAI (with HC filter mod)
TRD Sway Bar
Truxxx 3"/1" lift
20% Tinted Front Windows
Bed Rail over OEM Bed Liner
Relocated Rear Window Button
Coin Holder Replaced With Garmin GPS Mount
50 Series Flowmaster
I drove to Camarillo, CA from San Diego today to have the Willy Bar installed.
3+ hours drive up, 3 hour drive back - 340 miles round trip. Lovely.
The installl is jus tlike the video, except he has since added two bolt holes on either end that go through the truck bed for added safety. I am all for that.
The results? The ride home was definitely more enjoyable on those damn concrete sections than the ride there. The best part is it eliminated the "tuning fork" feature I felt in the frame. The WB is a bounce REDUCER not an ELIMINATOR. I am pleased with it, as it only sticks up 2 inches in the back of the bed, allowing the ATV to be loaded without removal. I got it for $499.00 - still pricey but worth it to me.
In spite of the extra 300 lbs, my MPG average for the entire trip was 20.5 MPG @ 70MPH. I reset the computer as I left my driveway. Excellent considering I hit some bumper to bumper traffic on the I-405 in several spots.
I got my Shurtrax and took it for a drive on the 118 on a section I know is terrible and I couldnt tell a difference. Waste of $63.00 IMO since there is no snow out here and I dont 4x4. Anyone wanna buy it? lol
__________________ 2007 Silver Sky Metalic SR5 TRD 5.7L 4X2 Crewmax.
JBL Sound System
Autodimming Mirror
Bucketseats
Bedliner
(FE, EJ, BU, OF, RL, SO, SR, N1, LU, C4) Just added:
5 piece Carriage Works Billet Grill. No Logo
Bed Extender
Exhaust Tip
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Anodized Aluminum Shift Knob
Door Sills
Sport Pedals
Tow Mirrors
Raptor 4" Stainless Oval Tube Bars
TRD CAI (with HC filter mod)
TRD Sway Bar
Truxxx 3"/1" lift
20% Tinted Front Windows
Bed Rail over OEM Bed Liner
Relocated Rear Window Button
Coin Holder Replaced With Garmin GPS Mount
50 Series Flowmaster
I have not experienced the problem yet, but as everyone knows, my driving has been limited. I'm surprised nobody has used bags of lead shot for shotgun shell reloading. They are quite heavy, yet very compact. My father-in-law used to put a few in the back of an Rx-7 for winter driving. I haven't seen whether the weight needs to be evenly dispersed across the back to eliminate the problem. If not, a person could get a couple of the tool boxes that fit at the sides along the wheel well and put the shot in the bottom of those and still have room for some gear on top.
__________________
If Buddha is burning in hell, I'd better pack my summer clothes.
"Courage is being scared to death… and saddling up anyway." - John Wayne.
"A lot of people run a race to see who is fastest. I run to see who has the most guts." Steve Prefontaine
that could help.....you want a real great fix.....talk to Nick at Nor-Cal Trucks in Livermore, CA....they make a product called Shulastic Shackles.....they will cure it for sure
I have not experienced the problem yet, but as everyone knows, my driving has been limited. I'm surprised nobody has used bags of lead shot for shotgun shell reloading. They are quite heavy, yet very compact. My father-in-law used to put a few in the back of an Rx-7 for winter driving. I haven't seen whether the weight needs to be evenly dispersed across the back to eliminate the problem. If not, a person could get a couple of the tool boxes that fit at the sides along the wheel well and put the shot in the bottom of those and still have room for some gear on top.
I guess you haven't been keeping up with the cost of reloading supplies.
__________________
Songdog
If you're being chased by a police dog, try not to go through a tunnel, then on to a little seesaw, then jump through a hoop of fire. They're trained for that!
-- Milton Jones
I can't help but think a custom set of leaf packs from Alcan or others would be a more practical way to deal with this problem. That and you would have a spring pack made to suit your particular application.
__________________
2008 Tundra 5.7L RCSB
Custom Switch panels and Emblems for your tundra. PM for details
I have messed around with several of the "Bed Bounce" cures since I bought the truck July 2007. I installed Rancho adjustable shocks, PRG mini pack springs, Shurtrax, with some improvement, but room for more. After reading about the WillyBar, I became interested in it because it seems to address the odd behavior that has been referred to as the "tuning fork" frame oscillation feeling that goes from the rear to the front to the rear again. People who put weight to the rearmost section of the bed by using sand bags, etc. reported a big improvement. So I gave that a try - 6 50 lb bags of playground sand. It made a HUGE difference. Now, the drawback to that it of course is the fact that to use the truck AS A TRUCK - for hauling or in my case, loading an ATV for desert season (coming up fast!) or hauling my soon to be purchased travel trailer, I would have to unload the sand bags - and reload them again after the desert fun. Not the best scenario. That is why I was willing to try the WillyBar solution. It adds 300lbs to the rearmost are of the bed. It can be removed if absolutely necessary to regain payload for hauling the trailer. However, because it only sticks up about 2 inches from the floor of the bed, I can load my ATV without removing it. Practically, I will have to remove it maybe 5-6 times a year for the times I will need the payload back for hauling the travel trailer.
I am happy with the results of the WillyBar. The Shurtrax puts weight over the axle - not in the rearmost areas where it is needed, at least for the Tundra. Although inexpensive, it was a real pain to have to drain it, pull it out when I needed the bed for loading the ATV. Then putting it back in and filling it up again, only to go through the same task for the next ATV trip.
Honestly, the Tundra was my first truck in about 12 years. I owned two Toyota trucks (pre-Tacoma) and one Datsun (yeah, I'm old) , having had SUV's the past 12 years previously, so admittedly my "truck guy" persona was pretty much gone, but I knew what a truck should feel like on a highway - this Tundra does not feel right to me on the SoCal concrete freeways. It never ocurred to me to test drive a SPECIFIC highway section, as my previous three mini trucks did not behave this way. So I did what I HOPE will be the final solution, given Toyota's lack of response.
The people at WillyBar (William and Michelle) are first rate people. It was a pleasure dealing with them. I left them an email yesterday with a question, and Willy actually CALLED my cell to talk about it some more!
Really glad to hear you report much success with the Willybar. Your very fortunate to be close enough to him to drive out and pick it up.. Its a shame the Willybar has to COST so Freakin MUCH though.. We almost had a solution that could have benefited everyone but unfortunatley with a pricetag and shipping fees being so astronomical the majority of us will have to continue to look for other solutions.
I honestly don't know if this guy is just trying to cash in on others misery with the bed bounce or if $600-650 is an honest and reasonable cost for this thing.
I can't help but think a custom set of leaf packs from Alcan or others would be a more practical way to deal with this problem. That and you would have a spring pack made to suit your particular application.
That's what I got in my RCSB w/ SAP. I ordered customized softer leaf springs from Alcan. It lowered the rear an inch and a half. I also have Firestone Ride Rite air springs for heavy loads.
The only thing that I noticed with the air bags in my RCSB is that the bags are springy. The bags, when they get compressed, will bounce like a basketball and you'll feel that when you go thu speed bumps and dips. You'll feel it as a kick up on the rear of the truck. So the faster you go on that bump or dip, the stronger the kick will be. For DC's and Crewmaxes, the effect may not be this bad cause they're heavier.
I've read parts of this thread and there are a number of good theories here, but nothing that is going to address the root cause - horrendous frame design (courtesy of Dana Corp).
Toyota attempted to make this tundra better riding truck and went with the box, modified C and C channel frame to smooth the ride. Unfortionally, the torsional stiffness is completely lacking, especially with the externally mounted shocks relying on a stiffer frame than previous internally mounted shocks.
Take a look at the other trucks in this segment - all fully boxed frames. Toyota started to give up on fully boxed frames back in 95.5 when they introduced the tacoma. It was boxed only until the end of the cab, where it then switched to C channel. Toyota has had huge problems, un-acknowledged, with the box actually hitting the back of the cab when the truck is used for hauling, wheeling or on rough roads.
The Tundra is no different. To fix the problem, yank the box and weld in some .120 steel plate to fully box the frame. I'll bet cash money the issue goes away.
This puts me in a dilemna - I can get a Tundra at ~30% off right now and need a new tow vehicle. With Gen-1 Tundra's running pretty highly priced, an 08 is really only a few K more.... but is it worth the flexy frame?
Maybe PRG products should work on this on their "test' Tundra??
I wonder how the new (gulp) 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 will be? New rear 5 link suspension (or whataever it is) that I think states a 1850 lb payload capacity and 9100 lbs towing capacity.
They are trying to address the inherent bounce issues of the typical pickup truck.
Re: Possible Tundra Bed Bounce CURE FOUND
Linear Mode
