I, specifically am talking about when my Tundra bounces up and down, from front to back, up and down and up and down so badly that everyone inside the cab is bouncing up and down and up and down. Not too cool to take friends for a ride and have them beg to be let out and then spend the rest of the evening listening to them make jokes and comparisons about how much we were bouncing up and down and up and down. At night you can see the headlights bouncing up and down the road to the point that oncoming drivers are flashing their lights at me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxarch
We really need to clear something up here.
I keep seeing a lot of references to South California highways and people using the term "bed bounce". The bounce from the California highways (and some other state highways) is a TOTALLY different issue than the "bed bounce". Read the following and then decide if what you have is actually "bed bounce" or if it is the other problem.
The California highway bounce is due to the spacing of the expansion gaps. It makes the whole truck bounce up and down due to the wheel base length. That is why it will go away if you drive slower or faster. Once again, this is NOT the "bed bounce".
When you go over irregular bumps, and your bed bounces from side to side like a paint shaker, but the cab remains mostly still, that is "bed bounce". You barely feel the bed bounce in the truck, but you can see your bed shaking through your mirrors. That is what the article linked in the first post is trying to fix. That fix will almost positively do absolutely nothing for the highway bounce caused by the expansion gaps. However, it could indeed work as a harmonic dampener like the person planned it to and reduce the side-to-side shake of the REAL "bed bounce".
Watch the Ford "Prove It" bed bounce video on YouTube and you will see a very severe case of the Tundra "bed bounce". If your truck is doing anything close to that on your highways, then you have way too many potholes in your highways.
__________________ 2007 Tundra 4X4 SR5 TRD Double Cab
Short Bed, Auto, Volant CAI, TRD Cat Back Exhaust, 20" Moto Metal wheels, Tow Package, Back-up camera, Sill Protectors, AVS In-channel Window Vent Visors, Sirius Satellite, All-Weather Floor Mats, Blue Streak Metallic
Name the freeways and the milepost numbers, cause I don't believe it. I have driven all over WA State and have never experienced anything abnormal. Is this your first truck?
I believe him. I live in a suburb of Sacramento, CA and I experience bed bounce on every highway in my vicinity. Fortunately in my case it doesn't get real bad until I'm over the speed limit (65 mph).
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'56 Willys PU - FI 383, NV4500, NP241C, 9", D44
'46 Willys - In progress
Originally Posted by mxsjw View Post
Name the freeways and the milepost numbers, cause I don't believe it. I have driven all over WA State and have never experienced anything abnormal. Is this your first truck?"
man you must drive a lot to cover every square mile of freeway in the state.
Off topic, but I see in your sig you have a block heater. I thought those were primarily for diesels. I know it gets cold up there, but that cold? Just curious.
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'07 Pyrite Mica Tundra Doublecab SR5 5.7 4x4 TRD w/ NAV, Total Chaos shackles, Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, 275/70/18 E Michelin LTX AT2
'02 Landcruiser
I had thought air bags might be a fix, but having experienced the rough ride on worn-out sections of concrete slab roads, I don't know if it would help fix the problem or not. I had Air Lift bags on my other truck for towing and will be installing the same on my Tundra, but am not sure it will check the harmonic bounce. I do find the Tundra does very well over bumps and potholes in the road but the harmonics that come from concrete slab roads that have been allowed to deteriorate to stepping stones is a problem.
Fortunately for me I don't live in an area with those kind of road conditions. However, if I did live in such an area I would be seriously considering changing my method of commuting....I would buy a new Tundra and take the backroads to work.
Stuball
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2008 CrewMax Limited 2WD, Salsa Red Pearl w/Biege Int., 5.7 Eng., Moonroof, Nav/Cam, XM Radio, Remote Start, Running Brds with Foot Lamps, Woodgrain Trim, Billet Grill, 3M protection, Weathertechs, Bedrug, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Air Lift suspension and using Amsoil.
Off topic, but I see in your sig you have a block heater. I thought those were primarily for diesels. I know it gets cold up there, but that cold? Just curious.
Gets down to -40*F for a few weeks in February. Cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey. But even at 0*F and lower, it's nicer for the motor not to have to go through such a temperature differential on start up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser13
I have the air ride airbags on my Tundra and I'm sorry to report it doesn't help the harmonic one bit.
Oh. Sorry to hear that. I seemed to recall on another thread several months ago, some Tundra drivers reported that with about 8-10 psi in their air bags, the harmonics stopped, and the ride was still pretty good.
I guess the only other alternative is to drive 90 MPH. This speed would eliminate the natural oscillation that seems to occur with a specific spring rate, wheelbase, and frequency of expansion joints on the highway that is the "perfect storm" on West Coast highways.
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I guess the only other alternative is to drive 90 MPH. This speed would eliminate the natural oscillation that seems to occur with a specific spring rate, wheelbase, and frequency of expansion joints on the highway that is the "perfect storm" on West Coast highways.
There is another alternative that would no doubt be the finest solution....fix the roads. These Californian-style speed bump freeways have got to go.
Stuball
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2008 CrewMax Limited 2WD, Salsa Red Pearl w/Biege Int., 5.7 Eng., Moonroof, Nav/Cam, XM Radio, Remote Start, Running Brds with Foot Lamps, Woodgrain Trim, Billet Grill, 3M protection, Weathertechs, Bedrug, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Air Lift suspension and using Amsoil.
I live in SoCal and drive the 118 - 5- 170 to work, and the bed does bounce more than my 2002 F-150. It sucks, but not a total deal breaker, I still love the truck, hopefully someone will find a real solution to the problem.
Oh. Sorry to hear that. I seemed to recall on another thread several months ago, some Tundra drivers reported that with about 8-10 psi in their air bags, the harmonics stopped, and the ride was still pretty good.
With an empty bed and 8-10psi in the bags, the ride is stiffer and bouncier on blacktop. It still vibrates like crazy over the concrete. With a full load, thats another matter- but the bags don't make the difference, the weight does.
Thanks for the info on the block heater. I have a cabin in the mountains and the overnight temp is typically around 0*F in winter. She starts up without even a second thought, but I suppose a heater couldn't hurt. You just plug it into a power outlet right? Cost?
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'07 Pyrite Mica Tundra Doublecab SR5 5.7 4x4 TRD w/ NAV, Total Chaos shackles, Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, 275/70/18 E Michelin LTX AT2
'02 Landcruiser
Any bed in any truck will have bounce, but some more than others. There is a video on youtube.com about this. Just do the search under bed bounce. I think the the foam object sandwiched between the spare tire and the frame is a great idea. An inexpensive possible solution to this problem. And for those who have yet to experience this, then try driving over rough parts of a freeway (in the fast lane in particular), or look in the rearview mirror when your going over a speed bump. Once you notice, it looks a little scary.
Re: Possible Tundra Bed Bounce CURE FOUND
2007 Tundra 4X4 SR5 TRD Double Cab
Linear Mode
