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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "4-inch lift", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
First post here. Not a mechanic by any means however I like to beleive that Im not slow.
So here is my question.
I just ordered the Camburg UCA and Coil over setup. I would like more than 3 but dont want to do the 6" lift. So I was thinking about a hybrid like in this post.
Are there any real drawbacks to adding a 1" spacer to the camburg setup and adding the diff drop.
I would think that should keep axles and boots within limits.
Im not even sure if it is possible but I may try it.
First post here. Not a mechanic by any means however I like to beleive that Im not slow.
So here is my question.
I just ordered the Camburg UCA and Coil over setup. I would like more than 3 but dont want to do the 6" lift. So I was thinking about a hybrid like in this post.
Are there any real drawbacks to adding a 1" spacer to the camburg setup and adding the diff drop.
I would think that should keep axles and boots within limits.
Im not even sure if it is possible but I may try it.
By the way I just bought a 08 Crewmax.
I honestly don't know if you could, because all the spacers on the market are made for the stock set up. I can tell you that 4 inches is about the limit without a real 6 inch kit because you will run out of adjustment range on the front end alignment. I am at the max on 3 of my 4 adjusters.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
You might want to check with CST or AM suspensions about a spindle lift. I read on one of the other messageboards that either one of these fab shops/ manuf. are coming out with one soon. If you want it to ride stock, this will be a way better option than a spacer.
Last edited by Harvey Wallbanger; 02-21-2008 at 05:43 PM.
Had a Revtek, which advertised 2.5 but was closer to 1.5 inch lift. Planned a 6-inch but couldn't find a way to do it without wheels that pushed the tires out beyond the fenders.
Kept the differential and driveshaft drops but scrapped the rest of the Revtek. RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... made a 4-inch lift by adding a custom-milled portion from a Trailmaster kit to a full Daystar kit, as shown in the photos in my gallery. On the back we made 2.25-inch blocks with extenders for the brake line brackets to keep the lines off the leafs. Stock wheels, coil overs, and shocks all around.
Ride is better without the Revtek spring pre-load, yet no more than stock lean around high-speed corners. Southern California bed-bounce is significantly reduced, probably from the combination of less spring pre-load up front and less rake than stock. Plenty of room left in the headlight adjusters.
Our goal was the most lift possible while keeping the stock suspension. I think we got it about right, as 3 of the 4 adjusters for the front end alignment are now maxed out.
305/65/18 BFG AT's look small now. With 20,000 miles, they have about half their tread left. Once they wear out, I will be going to at least 35 if not 37's. RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... does lifts and wheels for the local dealers, so I will be returning to them for wheel well mods when it's time for the 37's. I have about 3 inches left to the top of my 7-foot garage, so it should still fit with the bigger tires.
Right now my front wheel well sits 5 inches taller than stock, but still 3 inches shorter than Tundras with a 6-inch lift and 35's. We did a before and after measurement and I gained 2.5 inches in height up front compared to the Revtek kit.
I was getting 14 in town, but that recently jumped to 17 with the battery disconnect reset. I have the towing package and gears, so there is still plenty of power with the oversize tires; I suspect it will still be fine going to 37's.
I know pictures aren't as good as the real thing, but they are in my gallery just the same. Let me know if you have questions.
Update: discovered rear blocks left minimal travel with the stock shocks, so used this as a good excuse to put longer, softer shocks that will hopefully eliminate what's left of the bed bounce. Going to Meguiar's class in March, which will give me a chance to see if the ride is better on I-10.
I tried to find something more on this, but could not. The battery disconnect: did this give you the mileage increase? Is there another thread that you can forward me to? I live in CA and avg 12-13 in town and any increase is a plus. Thanks.
Had a Revtek, which advertised 2.5 but was closer to 1.5 inch lift. Planned a 6-inch but couldn't find a way to do it without wheels that pushed the tires out beyond the fenders.
Kept the differential and driveshaft drops but scrapped the rest of the Revtek. RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... made a 4-inch lift by adding a custom-milled portion from a Trailmaster kit to a full Daystar kit, as shown in the photos in my gallery. On the back we made 2.25-inch blocks with extenders for the brake line brackets to keep the lines off the leafs. Stock wheels, coil overs, and shocks all around.
Ride is better without the Revtek spring pre-load, yet no more than stock lean around high-speed corners. Southern California bed-bounce is significantly reduced, probably from the combination of less spring pre-load up front and less rake than stock. Plenty of room left in the headlight adjusters.
Our goal was the most lift possible while keeping the stock suspension. I think we got it about right, as 3 of the 4 adjusters for the front end alignment are now maxed out.
305/65/18 BFG AT's look small now. With 20,000 miles, they have about half their tread left. Once they wear out, I will be going to at least 35 if not 37's. RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... does lifts and wheels for the local dealers, so I will be returning to them for wheel well mods when it's time for the 37's. I have about 3 inches left to the top of my 7-foot garage, so it should still fit with the bigger tires.
Right now my front wheel well sits 5 inches taller than stock, but still 3 inches shorter than Tundras with a 6-inch lift and 35's. We did a before and after measurement and I gained 2.5 inches in height up front compared to the Revtek kit.
I was getting 14 in town, but that recently jumped to 17 with the battery disconnect reset. I have the towing package and gears, so there is still plenty of power with the oversize tires; I suspect it will still be fine going to 37's.
I know pictures aren't as good as the real thing, but they are in my gallery just the same. Let me know if you have questions.
Update: discovered rear blocks left minimal travel with the stock shocks, so used this as a good excuse to put longer, softer shocks that will hopefully eliminate what's left of the bed bounce. Going to Meguiar's class in March, which will give me a chance to see if the ride is better on I-10.
I tried to find something more on this, but could not. The battery disconnect: did this give you the mileage increase? Is there another thread that you can forward me to? I live in CA and avg 12-13 in town and any increase is a plus. Thanks.
__________________
Mojavered
White 08' CM 5.7 SR5 4X4 TRD
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Just an fyi, dont ever combine lifts (ie coilover + spacer) or whatever to achieve more lift than originally designed. Youll get hyperextension of ball joints and I have even seen cv tulips pulled right out of sockets. The only exception to this is to replace the coil assembly in some 6" kits with a coilover set to no lift. That means dont get the procomp 6" lift and add camburg coilovers at 2 inches of lift to get 8 inches and think youll be ok. I have personally seen this go bad MANY times in the backcountry with my tacoma and it got expensive fast....
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Re: 4-inch lift
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