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This is a discussion thread titled "Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.


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Old 02-26-2008, 11:10 PM
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Default Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

HIDs are in my future, but with the only projector(don't wanna blind people or temp the police) I can find running like $300 and $100-$200 for a retrofit package, I'm gonna have to wait.

I have read in several forums that the H9 bulb can be modified to fit in a H11 connector. The resulting increase in lumens is supposed to be fairly substantial.

Has anyone done this? Any issues? Is putting the H9(65 watt) bulb in the H11(55 watt) connector going to be an issue?

I'm no mechanic, so any damage to the wiring harness is gonna result in a visit to the dealer, and that doesn't interest me at all.I don't want to do anything that might cause problems or give them a reason to give me any warranty issues.

All you electrical/electronics gurus out there, is the additional 10 watts gonna jack up my system?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by 0013147; 02-26-2008 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:52 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

i'm surprised nobody responded to this. i plan to upgrade to H9 bulbs soon. its an easy mod and it has a substantial increase in light output. each stock H11 bulb draws between 4 and 5 amps. the H9 bulbs should draw about half an amp more, which isn't much. its definitely a much better choice than upgrading to the crappy high wattage bulbs that will do nothing but overheat the headlight system and prematurely fail.
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:14 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

Never heard of this mod.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:01 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

I will say this.... the stock lights on my Tundra are WAY better than my 05 Ram. I was just about to upgrade the head lights on my Ram till I traded her in for the Tundra. More lamp power is better so I will be doing some research on the H9 bulbs, thanks for the head start.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:50 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

You can also get a 9145/H10 bulb, (fits stock fog lights), that is 65 watts instead of the standard 43 watt H-10 bulb. Check out Susquehanna Motorsports Home Page The bulb is HL88301, only $22 per pair. I have not ordered them yet, but I am very tempted.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:24 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

I changed out my bulbs the night I brought the truck home. PIAA's. Nice white, waaaay better than stock. Fogs too.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:35 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

is there any lights brighter then stock ? i can't find h11's anywhere not even parts store for some odd reason
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:01 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by O7Tundra View Post
is there any lights brighter then stock ? i can't find h11's anywhere not even parts store for some odd reason
See following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tackz View Post
I changed out my bulbs the night I brought the truck home. PIAA's. Nice white, waaaay better than stock. Fogs too.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:37 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by I feel good View Post
You can also get a 9145/H10 bulb, (fits stock fog lights), that is 65 watts instead of the standard 43 watt H-10 bulb. Check out Susquehanna Motorsports Home Page The bulb is HL88301, only $22 per pair. I have not ordered them yet, but I am very tempted.

the problem with those is that they are blue bulbs, which need the higher wattage to overcome the blue tint they also trap more heat from the tint, which when combined with the increased current draw can burn up the stock wiring. i stay away from blue bulbs because i have replaced enough headlight wiring harnesses for people who have burnt them up.
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint

in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's

to come:
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:42 AM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

I've had this mod for about 6 months now, with no issues at all. In fact, I mounted a pair of Hella 8" 4000 halogen eurobeams inside my carriageworks grill, and they don't come close to the headlights. I'm changing out the halogen for the same Hellas in HID just to see if they can do better than the H-9 headlights. I'll be writing that up in the near future when I get the HID in (tomorrow).

Here's what I put in a earlier post, mostly from Daniel Stern lighting, and as I have said, I did both the low and high-beam with great results!

"For what it is worth, I went through Daniel Stern Lighting at the suggestion of another forum member, and have followed his suggestions with great success.

His reply follows below:

> I am looking to replace the high beam, OEM fog, and low beam bulbs,
> along with any others that can be easily accomplished (Daylight
> running lights, interior, brake, back-up, turn signals with something brighter.

OK...that's doable.

The upgrade for the low beams is to install H9 bulbs (2100 lumens) in place of the original H11 bulbs (1350 lumens). You have to shave a slight ridge of plastic from the H9 bulb's connector so the H11 socket will fit it. H9 direct order link is here:
H9 bulb

Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours
compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours
new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $29/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases.
The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see HIR bulb base modification for details.

The direct order link for these bulbs is 9011 (HIR1)

The fog lamps take 9145 bulbs. Despite the bad info circulating on the internet, it is neither safe nor wise to hack any other bulb type to fit in place of the 9145. Leave the standard bulbs alone. If you want your fogs to be more effective in fog, make 'em yellow; see Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

If you're trying for yellow fog lamps, the stick-on films don't really tint the light very effectively. You can get good results by removing the fogs, cleaning the lenses *thoroughly*, and spraying them with several coats of Dupli-Color Metalcast yellow, which is a transparent yellow paint
product: METALCAST™ . Let each coat "flash off" (dry most of the way) before applying the next, and use thin coats so you don't get drips and "sags" in the wet paint. With each successive coat, the yellow tint will grow deeper. Make them about 2 moderate shades deeper than you want to wind up with, and let them dry completely before taking the vehicle on the road.

> HID is not out of the question,

Actually, it is. See
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

The front turn signals can be made 25% brighter with these:
Plastic wedge base
" end of quote"


Hope this helps!

Picture of my lights that don't hold a candle to the headlights!

ImageShack - Hosting :: img0265gq1.jpg
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Last edited by greghad; 04-09-2008 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:50 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by greghad View Post
I've had this mod for about 6 months now, with no issues at all. In fact, I mounted a pair of Hella 8" 4000 halogen eurobeams inside my carriageworks grill, and they don't come close to the headlights. I'm changing out the halogen for the same Hellas in HID just to see if they can do better than the H-9 headlights. I'll be writing that up in the near future when I get the HID in (tomorrow).
AWESOME info. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:54 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

thanks for the info!
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2.4" front/1" rear leveling kit - toyo A/T 285/75/18 tires - bull bar with hella 500FF lights - 20% tint side and back windows - 55% full windshield tint

in the works:
stock HU -> LOC -> PPI FRX-456 -> DLS A4 + Marathon 6150 -> DLS iridium 6.2 comps + Hybrid-Audio L3's + 4 Tang Band W6-1139SI's

to come:
JBL MS-8 + center channel speaker + components for the rear + sirius adapter for stock HU

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Old 04-09-2008, 02:27 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

greghad - thanks for all the info. Do you have more details on how you did your Hella's behind the grill?
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:49 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

Toxarch was my mentor, and did a great write-up at:

Offroad Lights Installed Behind Grill (Lots of pictures) - Toyota Tundra Forum

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Old 04-09-2008, 03:07 PM
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Default Re: Thoughts about the H9 in the H11 mod

I have looked at his write-up many a times. Did you drawings of his mounts or did you make up your own? Did you have to move the hood latch and all like he did?
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