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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Rear Axle Alignment", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Hi to all, New member to this forum. I have been a Toyota owner for over 20 years,My last Tundra was first year 2000 model; best truck I have ever owned. Sold that one to my son-in-law to get 2007 d-cab 4x4 SR-5 with 5.7. I made the upgrade for the power and size of truck to pull a Cougar 25' 5th wheel trailer.The new tundra pulls the 5th wheel like it is not even their. Recently I purchased Ultra Goliath 18x9 black wheels, when I picked up truck after install, I noticed when standing behind truck that the right rear tire protruded noticeable from the wheelwell and the left did not. Now this is where the story gets real long and interesting. Had wheels checked ie; offset depth, mismachining etc, all four are identical. Pulled wheels in shop-back ones-measured off of frame on each side to straight edge on end of axle. The rear end is right at 9/16" further to the right side of truck than left, Checked tire pressure cold with known acurate Digital guage, reinstalled tires on truck.Took a Blocklayers 5' level, Held it plumb to the sidewalls of each rear tire, End of level on the ground. Their was less than 1/8" clearence between level and fender side of truck on left, and 9/16" gap on the right.I have been to the Dealer 3 times with this issue, They say there is NO PROBLEM!! I have had alot of input from various sources, all agree not right. I could go on with much more, has anyone else runacross this?
I have seen threads on the right side of the truck sitting a little higher, but not on the axle being shifted to the right.
Does it drive straight? If yes, it sounds like your bed might be mounted off-center on the frame.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
I have seen threads on the right side of the truck sitting a little higher, but not on the axle being shifted to the right.
Does it drive straight? If yes, it sounds like your bed might be mounted off-center on the frame.
Measuring the distance from the end of the axle to the frame rail wouldn't have anything to do with the bed. It sounds to me like something is whack. I can't think of any reason why the rear axle would be designed to be anything but perfectly centered between the frame rails.
I have read other posts about this and some have found the bed was off center by a marginal amount. I wouldn't think the axle would be that far off because they have a locating pin that keeps every thing lined up (axle to leaf spring) For the axle to be the cause the measurement would be nearly identical on both sides of the frame one side being negative and the other positive.
__________________
'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, Flowmaster 50 SUV series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts ( not CW), Airaid, Ground Force 2-4 lowering kit.
Thanks for all the replies, Im sorry I guess I wasn't very clear in my discription. The first measurement took in frame to axle only ie; distance from frame to straight edge on end of axle= 9/16 of and inch more or plus to the right side. Lets say the total rear end from axle end to end is 72 inches, half of that would be 36 inches. Measuring from either axle end to the center would than be 36 inches right, However in my case their is 9/16 of and inch more to the right side and equaly less to the left. If the axle was shifted about 3/8 of and inch to the left, it would almost be equal on both sides. On the body measurement with level on tire sidewall to fender, Was only to see if the numbers stayed the same as frame to axle end, they did. Here's one more tidbit, Drive truck thru water on concrete as straight as possible and on to dry surface and right rear tire tracks slighty outside of right front and left rear tracks slighty inside of left front. Front end alignment was checked by Dealer, They said OK. Again Thanks for input, It is much appreciated.
go to your local dealer and look at every single tundra on the lot. they are all the same. guys with low offset wheels are compensating by installing fender flares. been discussed a few times on here, and the tacomas seem to have the same problem too.
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Rear Axle Alignment
Linear Mode
