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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Possible U-Joint Failure", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
My DC has about 15k miles on it. Ive recently started noticing that when shifting from Park to Drive, and Reverse to Drive, I hear a loud driveline noise. Im about 99% sure its a U-Joint, which wouldnt be a problem cause they are cheap and easy, and under warranty! But my concern is the truck has very low mileage. I am confident in toyota and there vehicle and know its not a big deal to get it fixed, but its still a big concern cause it sounds nasty. I have towed a reasonable amount of trailers since I got the truck 6 months ago, but nothing to heavy, nothing to far, and no abusive/"stupid" driving with a trailer.
Heres the curve ball, the sound has really been amplified since I put my 3in ToyTech with 1 in rear block. Im not saying the block cause it and I dont know if thats exactly when it started I just dont remember having it as badly before. And yes the lift is installed correctly and I immediatly went and got an alignment afterwards.
hopefully the dealer wont try to blame driveline angle on it, u only lifted the rear an inch and that shouldnt make a difference...no clunk in mine and i tow our boat all the time. and have driven it kinda hard here and there.
Driveline angle significantly affects u-joints, I wouldn't be surprised if the claim is rejected. A standard design rule for driveline u-joint is articulation less than 2.5 degrees. Anything above (up to 7-10 degrees) should have a CVT joint.
Best of luck, I hope you have a favorable outcome.
Last edited by hypersonic; 03-20-2008 at 02:58 PM.
I did the driveshaft drop at the u-joint when I did my lift. No vibration, no problems. At 23K miles now.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Is that in your lift write up?
Where did you get it?
or
Did you make it your self?
Yes it is in my lift write-up. I used the drops from my first Revtek lift (front and rear), and just kept them when I went taller with my second lift.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Is it the rear being lifted that stresses the U-joint? My local dealer refused to install my Toytec 3"/1" kit and mentioned the U-joint stress as the reason. I have another Toyota dealership doing the install, but am still curious.
Seems hard to believe that 1" would cause so much stress.
Is it the rear being lifted that stresses the U-joint? My local dealer refused to install my Toytec 3"/1" kit and mentioned the U-joint stress as the reason. I have another Toyota dealership doing the install, but am still curious.
Seems hard to believe that 1" would cause so much stress.
I highly doubt it as well, otherwise we would be destroying them everytime we went over bumps and dips in the road on a stock truck.
1" is nothing, but start getting to 2.5" and 3" on the rear...hmmm.
__________________
Beer please!
Unknown - "The biological purpose of pain is to prevent the recurrence of stupidity."
Did you install the lift yourself. You should check to make sure the rear axle didn't rotate toward the ground and that it is at a neutral angle with the driveshaft (same angle as before lift installed) If it wasn't supported and rotated, then the ubolts were reinstalled it could but undue pressure on the U-Joint.
-H
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TuRD
My DC has about 15k miles on it. Ive recently started noticing that when shifting from Park to Drive, and Reverse to Drive, I hear a loud driveline noise. Im about 99% sure its a U-Joint, which wouldnt be a problem cause they are cheap and easy, and under warranty! But my concern is the truck has very low mileage. I am confident in toyota and there vehicle and know its not a big deal to get it fixed, but its still a big concern cause it sounds nasty. I have towed a reasonable amount of trailers since I got the truck 6 months ago, but nothing to heavy, nothing to far, and no abusive/"stupid" driving with a trailer.
Heres the curve ball, the sound has really been amplified since I put my 3in ToyTech with 1 in rear block. Im not saying the block cause it and I dont know if thats exactly when it started I just dont remember having it as badly before. And yes the lift is installed correctly and I immediatly went and got an alignment afterwards.
yes I installed myself. I was careful not to let this happen but wouldnt the springs perches welded on the axle housing keep it from doing this...? Ive been considering taking the block out cause even after the lift my truck is still very raked forward (much like stock). I think my front end sat lower than most stock trucks when it was stock, It was really low. I might just take the rear block out and take it to the dealership...
I believe the only things that locate the rear axle are the drive shaft, (springs & ubolts now blocks) and the shocks. The springs position the axle and the shocks can move all over the place. Try pulling the springs off sometime. The shocks will, if still attached, still let the axle move all over the place. It's always a safe bet to take a picture of the axle / DS angle before and after to make sure they are the same.
If the ujoints are getting stressed though you would likely get some high speed vibration on the highway as those kind of stresses increase with speed.
Good luck I hope you get it right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TuRD
yes I installed myself. I was careful not to let this happen but wouldnt the springs perches welded on the axle housing keep it from doing this...? Ive been considering taking the block out cause even after the lift my truck is still very raked forward (much like stock). I think my front end sat lower than most stock trucks when it was stock, It was really low. I might just take the rear block out and take it to the dealership...
One other thought. It could be axle wrap if the truck is parked on a hill. The blocks will increase axle wrap and it could just be the axle loading and unloading making a popping sound. Also check your torque on all the ubolts and make cure you haven't cracked one of the blocks if it's aluminum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TuRD
yes I installed myself. I was careful not to let this happen but wouldnt the springs perches welded on the axle housing keep it from doing this...? Ive been considering taking the block out cause even after the lift my truck is still very raked forward (much like stock). I think my front end sat lower than most stock trucks when it was stock, It was really low. I might just take the rear block out and take it to the dealership...
One other thought. It could be axle wrap if the truck is parked on a hill. The blocks will increase axle wrap and it could just be the axle loading and unloading making a popping sound. Also check your torque on all the ubolts and make cure you haven't cracked one of the blocks if it's aluminum.
Yeah I understand that. It does it on flat ground. And i put my parking brake on when i park on a hill so this doesnt happen, I come to a complete stop before switching between reverse and drive, I dont press my tires against curbs or parking stops when i park..ect.
Its really getting frustrating, it pisses me off. The noise is happening when I let off the gas and get back into the gas(not heavy at all, even with a very light foot) and sometimes when Im slowing down to stop at a light, when the transmission downshifts itself, it makes a pretty big jolt too. Very annoying.
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Possible U-Joint Failure
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