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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Rides Like a BRAND NEW Truck!", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
The ride is much better now. The rear feels much more compliant. I have not been on the infamous I-52 concrete freeway yet (later this week), but initial indications based on the roads I travel daily is that this is the way to go!
I have Rancho adjustable on the back, set at 4. I have not changed them yet to see any difference one way or the other.
The rake isn't so bad that if someone had not told me it was going to be higher that I would have noticed. I will still add a 2" spacer lift to the front at some point to equal things out.
Install took 45 minutes and changed my height exactly one inch. I started with 2.25 inch blocks before the mini-pack, changed to 1.25 inch blocks while installing the pack. Rear wheel well height remains unchanged at 43 inches; I won't even have to adjust my headlights.
My suggestion would be a standard 3 inch lift in front and the mini-pack in the rear with no blocks. This will make your truck look almost level, but the rear will still be 1.5 inches higher empty, which works out well when fully loaded.
Hope to have pictures and a ride report soon. Greg, thanks again for the great kit.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Anyone know the DEFINITIVE loss in payload capacity with this spring kit installed? I've heard 5% - and 500 lbs. Big difference. My DC has, what, a 1500 lb payload stock? 5% reduction would be 1425 lbs. 500 lbs would be 1,000 lbs capacity remaining. I'm just curious in case I have to haul something bigger than a Bomardier DS650 quad ATV in the bed.
Anyone know the DEFINITIVE loss in payload capacity with this spring kit installed? I've heard 5% - and 500 lbs. Big difference. My DC has, what, a 1500 lb payload stock? 5% reduction would be 1425 lbs. 500 lbs would be 1,000 lbs capacity remaining. I'm just curious in case I have to haul something bigger than a Bomardier DS650 quad ATV in the bed.
Mark
That's all I'm waiting on before pullin the trigger. Effect on payload capacity??
__________________
Performance: Drop in TRD Air Filter; Classic Chambered True Dual Exhaust
Exterior: Clear lens headlight covers; Westin side steps; Ventvisors-in channel, Spray in liner, Rancho shocks 9000xl front and rear, Silverstar high beams & fog lights, Polarg low beams, TRD oil cap, Chrome door handles, Limited outside mirrors, EGR bug shield, Remote start, TRD rear sway bar, TruXedo Tonneau, Grille overlay, 275/60 on Pro Comp 6066 20x8.5.
Interior: Weathertech floor mats, Sport Pedals, auto-dim rear view and 35% side window tint.
I had to register to the site below to see the pics.. Just wanted to confirm a couple things.. If anyone cares to chime in please feel free to do so..
1. Are the Side Retaining Bolts Necessary?
The guy on the Frontier site below said the center bolt on his Springpak Broke because it was so weak.. (Oh GREAT!) and the biggest issue was getting things to line up on the Axle when he was ready to raise it back up.. He had to use a Ratcheting Cargo Strap to get things to line up. Holy COW!.
2. Is the Axle alignment that difficult? once your ready to jack it back up?
THanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullardshaun
When I put mine on all I needed was 2 c-clamps, jack, jackstands,a mallet and my electric impact( wasn't necessary but saves a lot of time.) The install was pretty straight forward, especially since pretty much everything you need to take off is a 19mm. Here's a write up for installing similar Deavers on a Frontier PRG 3" spacer and deaver install guide - Nissan Frontier / Navara Forum. When I did mine I used the mallet to help align the centerpin.
I had to register to the site below to see the pics.. Just wanted to confirm a couple things.. If anyone cares to chime in please feel free to do so..
1. Are the Side Retaining Bolts Necessary?
The guy on the Frontier site below said the center bolt on his Springpak Broke because it was so weak.. (Oh GREAT!) and the biggest issue was getting things to line up on the Axle when he was ready to raise it back up.. He had to use a Ratcheting Cargo Strap to get things to line up. Holy COW!.
2. Is the Axle alignment that difficult? once your ready to jack it back up?
THanks!
1. When I had my Frontier I didn't use the retaining bolts, I said what the heck and put them on my Tundra.
The guy on there tried to cinch the spring pack together with the centerpin, The stock center pins would strip out the same. The centerpin shouldn't be used to cinch the pack together, thats what the C-clamps and mallet are for.
1. The axle on my Tundra was easy to align with the spring pack, my Frontier was a little harder ( didn't have to use a ratchet strap though) an extra set of hands did make it a lot easier on my Tundra since the axle is much bigger.
I hope I cleared that up a liitle bit
Last edited by bullardshaun; 04-01-2008 at 03:52 PM.
Did mine without C-clamps. Center pin lined up and tightened with no problem. Of course, the U-bolts are what really holds it all together, so the center bolt is just an alignment aid.
No squeaks, but haven't taken it off-road yet.
There is one short section here in AZ that mimics I-10 in southern California with bed bounce, and the ride with the mini-pack is amazing. As someone posted early in this thread, I still have a firm TRD ride, but the unbearable harmonic commonly called bed bounce seems to be gone. Over my short test section in AZ I can now hold a drink without it spilling, whereas before it would be difficult to talk the bounce was so bad.
I will be off-roading this weekend to give it a good workout, and taking it to southern California the following weekend for a final test on I-10. Stay tuned.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
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