mlinder or prerunner greg, can you please post the installation instructions that were emailed? I haven't done any suspension mods before, and I'm not sure what I'd be getting into.
Thanks
Well I started to do the mod this afternoon however ran out of time. It started to rain. Had no problem with the disassembly other then step #8 in the instructions. It says to remove the allen screw from the overload spring leaf side supports. Could not find the allen screw. I did have to remove an alignment spring sleeve. Should have everything back together tommorrow if the rain stops.
WOW! I haven't been on this site for a little while, and now I see this thread. I'm really excited. I just got into an accident last Friday with my Tundra CM, so it's in the shop right now. I've been having a lot of REALLY bad back aches over the last couple of months and I'm quite certain that it is caused by the bed bouncing. If this fixes the problem, I'll be the happiest person on earth! when I have some more time and when I get my truck back, I'm definitely gonna have to look into this more. heck, if I find some time to read through all these threads, I might have to order the parts before I get my truck back.
Please let us know how it goes.. Being that the install is fresh on your mind maybe you can share a few tips for those of us that have yet to install ours. I"m shooting for Sat.
Was there an Allen Screw from the Overload Spring Leave Side support?
Do you have to remove the Spring Sleeves though right?
I really wish someone who's done this would do a write up.. Instead everyone thats done it isn't really going into much detail about their install.. Just that It wasn't that hard or "Got my Minpak Installed".
Detailed Writeup PLEASE!. the Instructions from PRG are vague at best!
THank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by e22mmit
Well I started to do the mod this afternoon however ran out of time. It started to rain. Had no problem with the disassembly other then step #8 in the instructions. It says to remove the allen screw from the overload spring leaf side supports. Could not find the allen screw. I did have to remove an alignment spring sleeve. Should have everything back together tommorrow if the rain stops.
It's really more of a common sense install for anyone who does basic suspension work. Hardest part is loosening the U-bolts, seriously.
The only thing you really need from the instructions is to know that the short end of the mini-pack goes towards the front of the truck. The center alignment bolt is not dead center; the shorter side of the mini-pack needs to be towards the front.
I paid my lift shop 3/4 hour labor to do the job, so naturally it's a lot easier when you have a lift. Took a few pictures that I will try to put up within the next week. The kid that did the job never looked at the instructions because it was all common sense. The owner and I skimmed through the instructions ahead of time and marked the springs with the short side towards the front, because that was all you really needed from the instructions.
One tip: rather than trying to compress the leaves with the center alignment bolt, just let the weight of the truck do it for you. I.e., once you have it lined up, just lower the truck slowly and the factory leaves and mini-pack will all compress together most of the way. Then you do a final tightening on the center alignment bolt, chop off the top (there is a note on this in the instructions), then do the real tightening with the U-bolts.
If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, pay your local shop to do it for you. It only took mine 45 minutes.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 46K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails. Front Susp: Stock coilovers, 4" lift (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...6-4-inch-lift/), swapped extra spacers for Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, wheel well height still 41.5." Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43." Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper. After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/, 295/70, or 35x12.50/18. Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now. Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed. Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
It seems on the surface to be very straight forward.. I've read over the instructions and have a decent grasp conceptionally of what all needs to be done..
It's usually the little things that get ya where tips from those who've done it already can tell ya what to watch out for.. Like for example.. Someone posted a Link from a Nissan Site where a guy did something similar.. Pics and all.. He had an issue getting the Leaf to line up with his Axle when he was ready to jack it back into place.
How likely am I going to run into some issue like that. Maybe the Nissan Titans are way different than our suspension and I won't have that problem..
Any special tools I need? Did you guys remove the brackets that hold your Brake Lines etc so you had more slack.
What actually holds the Overload Leaf on our trucks now? I can sorta follow removing the Ubolts and lowering the Axle.. After that does the Lower Overload Leaf just fall off or it's it bolted on at the bottom and the top just under the Bump Stop?
THanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielAcosta
It's really more of a common sense install for anyone who does basic suspension work. Hardest part is loosening the U-bolts, seriously.
The only thing you really need from the instructions is to know that the short end of the mini-pack goes towards the front of the truck. The center alignment bolt is not dead center; the shorter side of the mini-pack needs to be towards the front.
I paid my lift shop 3/4 hour labor to do the job, so naturally it's a lot easier when you have a lift. Took a few pictures that I will try to put up within the next week. The kid that did the job never looked at the instructions because it was all common sense. The owner and I skimmed through the instructions ahead of time and marked the springs with the short side towards the front, because that was all you really needed from the instructions.
One tip: rather than trying to compress the leaves with the center alignment bolt, just let the weight of the truck do it for you. I.e., once you have it lined up, just lower the truck slowly and the factory leaves and mini-pack will all compress together most of the way. Then you do a final tightening on the center alignment bolt, chop off the top (there is a note on this in the instructions), then do the real tightening with the U-bolts.
If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, pay your local shop to do it for you. It only took mine 45 minutes.
The stock overload has an alignment bolt that runs through the pack. Undo the nut on top and then pry it off from the bottom. There is a thin steel plate that comes off with it.
We did one side at a time.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 46K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails. Front Susp: Stock coilovers, 4" lift (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...6-4-inch-lift/), swapped extra spacers for Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, wheel well height still 41.5." Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43." Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper. After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/, 295/70, or 35x12.50/18. Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now. Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed. Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Cool.. What about the alignment of the Leaf Springs when I jack the axle back up.. will it go right in place or do you have to fight with it line it up.
Cool.. What about the alignment of the Leaf Springs when I jack the axle back up.. will it go right in place or do you have to fight with it line it up.
THanks!
You never disconnect the main leaves. The new mini-pack has guides on the front and back that fit around the main leaves, so as long as you are close it will align itself. Once you do the first side, the second side is that much quicker.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 46K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails. Front Susp: Stock coilovers, 4" lift (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...6-4-inch-lift/), swapped extra spacers for Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, wheel well height still 41.5." Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43." Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper. After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/, 295/70, or 35x12.50/18. Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now. Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed. Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Just finished installing mine. A few notes to those that want to do their own.
The instructions that Greg provided seem like they were for the Nissan Xterra but they explain overall how to get the job done.
1st, there are no allen bolts.
2nd, the stock overload leaf on top of having the centering pin running thru it also has a dowl pin (I thought this was the allen bolt) locking it with the leaf above. Use some WD40 on the pin and simply turn the overload spring to loosen, then just rock it back a forth and it will seperate. Very easy once you know.
3rd, when doing the drivers side keep an eye on the anti-lock wiring from the bottom of the bed to the top of the rear axle while lowering the axle. If you have to, just remove the bolt holding the bracket in place and put it back when you raise the axle.
4th, I know not everyone will have to do this, but I had to use a few straps (tie down straps) to help locate the pin in the leaf pack to the axle.
5th, when you put the leaf pack back together and before you cinch it down for good, make sure your leafs are lined up (even) on the sides.
Once youve put a few miles on it, re-torque the ubolts to stock specs.
Now go have fun.
Edit: I got about 3/4" lift out of the springs.
__________________
2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 DC 4x4 5.7 V8 TRD
Sky Silver Met, Debadged, ARE LSII, BedRug, SwayAway 2.5" Coilovers, PRG Spring Pack, TRD Rear Stabilizer, TOYO OC A/T 285/75/18, TRD CAI, Corsa Touring Exhaust, Kenwood DDX8019/G510 Units, Wet Okoles front and rear.
Re: Rides Like a BRAND NEW Truck!
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