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TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2007 and later Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Rides Like a BRAND NEW Truck!", within the Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I don't think you have to worry about that. He has too much pride in his product, company and rep to ever do something like that.
I talked to him last Monday and he told me he had just recieved the new shippment and would send them to me the next morning. I recieved them on Thursday. He is a very stand up guy. I would love to do business with him again and would recommend him to anyone. I look forward to seeing other products he will be working on for the Tundras.
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'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, Flowmaster 50 SUV series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts ( not CW), Airaid, Ground Force 2-4 lowering kit.
Thirdhorseman, did you have to have your alignment done after the mini pack?? I noticed today as I was driving around my wheel isn't centered anymore. I guess there is some play in the centering pin and I didn'y get it straight. ooooops!
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'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, Flowmaster 50 SUV series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts ( not CW), Airaid, Ground Force 2-4 lowering kit.
Thirdhorseman, did you have to have your alignment done after the mini pack?? I noticed today as I was driving around my wheel isn't centered anymore. I guess there is some play in the centering pin and I didn'y get it straight. ooooops!
I don't know about Third, but mine is fine. I haven't heard anyone else with this setup complain about it either. You may have a problem with our setup. If you can't see it on your own, I suggest you have it checked out by a dealer or someone before you wipe out your tires......
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07 Tundra DCSB, 5.7, Blue Streak Metallic, 4X4, SR5, TRD, BU, CK, DZ, FE, HM, MG, OF, Brushed Stainless steps, sill protectors, USMC lighted hitch plug and assorted stickers and license plate brackets, rollup bed cover, Rhino Liner, Mesh Grill backing, Black Wheelskin steering wheel cover, Wade in channel vent visors, under rear seat storage, PRG mini spring pack, Proforce rear exit cat-back exhaust, aFe CAI, TRD rear sway bar, A.R.E. MX series Cap.
Thirdhorseman, did you have to have your alignment done after the mini pack?? I noticed today as I was driving around my wheel isn't centered anymore. I guess there is some play in the centering pin and I didn'y get it straight. ooooops!
I don't know of a way to physically change the alignment with the mini-pack, and had no issues with the centering pin. I'm as anal as it comes with alignments and experienced no change at all. I guess it's possible for some interaction, but it seems something would have to be amiss with the alignment in the first place. Hopefully someone smarter than both of us can chime in.
You say your steering wheel isn't centered. Does it still drive straight with no pressure on the steering wheel?
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
It drives straight like before just the wheel is cocked to the left. I have always liked the wheel centered and now if I center it while I am moving the truck goes to the right. I have replaced leafs before with out a hitch. Maybe I did some thing even though this was a prietty basic install. I'll be setting an appointment with my dealer tomorrow I am near the 10,000 mile oil change anyway. Thanks for the input guys.
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'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, Flowmaster 50 SUV series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts ( not CW), Airaid, Ground Force 2-4 lowering kit.
It drives straight like before just the wheel is cocked to the left. I have always liked the wheel centered and now if I center it while I am moving the truck goes to the right. I have replaced leafs before with out a hitch. Maybe I did some thing even though this was a prietty basic install. I'll be setting an appointment with my dealer tomorrow I am near the 10,000 mile oil change anyway. Thanks for the input guys.
Did you by chance change one of the tire positions? Otherwise, if it drives straight with no hands on the wheel but the steering wheel itself is a little off, that should be a simple tie-rod adjustment to fix the toe. Still a mystery to me how swapping the rear leafs would have that effect.
__________________ 07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 35K miles, 17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset & removing extra (charcoal?) air filter. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43."
Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper.
After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for 285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/18 or 35x12.50/18.
Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare. Foam pad above spare to help with bed bounce.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks and foam pad above spare. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.
Did you by chance change one of the tire positions? Otherwise, if it drives straight with no hands on the wheel but the steering wheel itself is a little off, that should be a simple tie-rod adjustment to fix the toe. Still a mystery to me how swapping the rear leafs would have that effect.
I did one side at a time on jack stands. Maybe the axle housing did shift slightly causing this new condition. That would make the back of the truck walk to one side and the correction would be to steer it the oposite direction. It drove straight and true before the mini pack so I suspect this to be the cause.
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'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, Flowmaster 50 SUV series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts ( not CW), Airaid, Ground Force 2-4 lowering kit.
With mine, I just open the tailgate about 6" and slam it shut, the amount of bounce is unbelievable. I noticed when I get in the bed and slam the tailgate the bounce is reduced significantly, but I can feel the reverberation through the bed. I was thinking about supporting the rear of the frame with jack stands, just to get the weight off the springs, and slam the gate and see what happens, as soon as time and weather permit. Today I actually loosened the bed bolts so they were just snug to see if it would change the bounce. No difference.
I've mentioned this before about what I thought this bounce might be and this is just my opinion. I think all the shake and bounce is coming from the frame flexing where the double C meets the single C. I also think the frame (single C) metal isn't as thick as other single C channel trucks and thats where I think the bounce is coming from. Of course, if you look in your side mirrors you can see the bed shake but, look at your back seat in the daylight as all this crazy shakin is going on. It's bouncing worse than the bed. Where the rear seat meets the bed, thats where the double C becomes the single C frame. That, in my opinion, is the weak spot of the frame.
I agree with you Vegasheat.. It's basically the Rear Leaf Springs are stiffer than the Frame so under unloaded situations the Frame is more likely to give (flex) before the Rear Leaf Springs and thus you get that horrible bouncy sensation.
I have no idea what it's going to take to fix this if ever.. Would welding a couple beams in to connect the two sides of the frame together make it better or worse.
Who knows!.
I really don't like the idea of having to tote 200lbs worth of Sandbags just to get a comfortable ride..
I have no idea what it's going to take to fix this if ever....
One thing you do know is it won't be Toyota and based on a e-mail reply I recieved from their customer support they don't even care if they lose you as a customer.
First and last Toyota for me. SOS as any other manufacturer.
But I do have a 7 year 75,000 bumper to bumper warranty and only 7,200 miles on the truck after 13 months of ownership. So it looks like Toyota may be in for the long haul.
I agree with you Vegasheat.. It's basically the Rear Leaf Springs are stiffer than the Frame so under unloaded situations the Frame is more likely to give (flex) before the Rear Leaf Springs and thus you get that horrible bouncy sensation.
I have no idea what it's going to take to fix this if ever.. Would welding a couple beams in to connect the two sides of the frame together make it better or worse.
Who knows!.
I really don't like the idea of having to tote 200lbs worth of Sandbags just to get a comfortable ride..
I agree. I was driving my work Exploder on a notorious section of highway around here (I-25 between Longmont & Ft. Collins) and pulled up to the side of a Tundra that was getting its highway hop on. I was able to get a firsthand perspective on what was happening - The gap between the top of the bed and the cab was constantly contracting and expanding meaning that the bed was rotating up and down from a fixed point at the front of the bed. The only way this can be explained is that the frame is flexing to allow the rear half of the truck to rotate up and down. I was bummed to see that this is what is causing the dreaded bed bounce. Although I still maintain that some frame flex is a good thing for a truck (to help dissipate energy), I don't think that unloaded this should happen. I also can't explain why with a loaded bed this doesn't happen? Maybe the rear springs start soaking up more travel when the bed is loaded? Maybe the frame is pre-loaded with more weight in the bed and that slop is taken up letting the suspension do more work?
The best way to fix this is to buttress the two sections of the frame (assuming this is where the flex happens) with some plate steel to stiffen that union. I wonder if Toyota is ever going to address this? I mean, the truck does wide wonderfully when loaded down with a few hundred pounds in the bed so they don't feel they need to?
For the record, I've seen other models of trucks do this as well - most notibly Ford and Dodge 3/4 and 1 ton models.
I'm not complaining, I love my truck - Just an observation.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC Limited - Slate Metallic 5.7L 4WD
Red Rock Leather -- Navigation -- TRD Exhaust -- TRD Sway Bar -- Volant Intake -- JBA Headers -- ReadyLift 2.5" front spacer/1" rear blocks -- Pro Comp front coilovers with TRD package springs and Bilstein shocks -- Pro Comp 6066 wheels with BFG A/T KO 305/55R20 -- Bushwhacker Pocket Fender Flares (Color Keyed)
I also can't explain why with a loaded bed this doesn't happen? Maybe the rear springs start soaking up more travel when the bed is loaded? Maybe the frame is pre-loaded with more weight in the bed and that slop is taken up letting the suspension do more work?
Thats precisely my theory.. . Now that you've got some weight to counter the Frame Flex the Suspension is left to deal with the ride and boy does it work well. When the Truck has approx 200+ lbs in the back, it rides like a dream. It's such a shame that Toyota wouldn't work on this issue to extend that same ride quality to an unloaded condition as well.
Thats precisely my theory.. . Now that you've got some weight to counter the Frame Flex the Suspension is left to deal with the ride and boy does it work well. When the Truck has approx 200+ lbs in the back, it rides like a dream. It's such a shame that Toyota wouldn't work on this issue to extend that same ride quality to an unloaded condition as well.
Well, keep in mind that it is physically impossible to design a simple spring-mass-damper system to be perfectly damped under all loads. If you design it for a heavy load it will be overdamped (stiff) empty and on the flipside if you design it to ride well unloaded the system will be underdamped when loaded down. To address this a variable damping system must be employed - which only exists on luxury vehicles right now.
The area that needs to be addressed is the frame - at least the harmonic that is setup by the frame flexing/unflexing on the highway will be attenuated. The ride will stay a bit stiff but at least the hopping motion will be controlled.
__________________ 2007 Tundra DC Limited - Slate Metallic 5.7L 4WD
Red Rock Leather -- Navigation -- TRD Exhaust -- TRD Sway Bar -- Volant Intake -- JBA Headers -- ReadyLift 2.5" front spacer/1" rear blocks -- Pro Comp front coilovers with TRD package springs and Bilstein shocks -- Pro Comp 6066 wheels with BFG A/T KO 305/55R20 -- Bushwhacker Pocket Fender Flares (Color Keyed)